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Does anyone use the Chefs Choice M130 knife sharpener?

America's Test Kitchen has recommended this knife sharpener. It's a bit pricey, so before I consider it I'd love to hear opinions or words of advice from anyone who has been using it. Thanks!

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  1. I haven't used the 130, I do however have the 110 an earlier model. It works satisfactorly. It's not going to put the same kind of edge on a knife as an 8000 grit waterstone (at least the 110 doesn't). I'm sure it's considered a sacralige by the many knife enthusiasts here, but it beats rubbing your knife on the sidewalk to get it sharp. Personally, I'm about to invest in waterstones and see what I can do with those. If I can't get the knife any sharper than I can with the Chefs Choice then I'll use the watersontes for something else.

    My opinion is this, you need a sharp knife, not everyone has the time or skill level to use a waterstone to get a razor sharp edge. Any way you sharpen is better than not sharpening at all. As far as having a knife sharpened, I'm a little hesitant to just hand them over to the guy with a grinding wheel at the farmer's market.

    1. What knives do you use or intend to use, Cindy? That has bearing on what sharpener is ideal for you.

      The Chefs Choice is quick, easy to use (relatively), and puts on a medium sharp edge. There are cheaper solutions, solutions that create sharper edges, solutions that are more versatile. You'd be hard pressed to find a quicker option or one with less of a learning curve (though the Accusharp competes on both fronts).

      2 Replies
      1. re: cowboyardee

        My knives -- I'm not sure how to describe them except with whatever info I can get off the knife itself. There's a J.A. Henckels International Forged Synergy German stainless steel; one is a Solingen Stain-free Ice-hardened knife; there's aWusthof Dreizack Classic; there's aWusthof Dreizack AvantGarde paring knife, and a couple of others, likely the same verall quality. They're by no means great knives, but I know that when they're properly sharpened, they get the job done. What I know about myself is that I'm not up for the learning curve that's necessary for using a waterstone.

        I was happy with my knives after the guy at the farmer's market sharpened them. But I need to keep them sharp. I've had my best luck to date with my MinoSharp ceramic water sharpener.

        1. re: CindyJ

          The chefs choice 130 will be fine for those knives. Eventually, you'll get a little step at the heel and the bolster will have to be ground down in order to get the edge to contact the board, but eventually that will happen whichever sharpener you choose.

          I don't know of any problems with chefs choice electric sharpeners breaking down or anything. The chefs choice should be a little more effective than the minosharp. As you probably know, the chefs choice is not a good option for some other types of knives, but it doesn't sound like you're interested in getting one. There is a learning curve, but its nothing challenging. Sounds like a reasonable choice for you.

      2. Never used it, but I just want to point out a few things. According to the ChefChoice website, this model is also rated "Best Overall" by Wall Street Journal in 2007.

        The description from the website seems confusing. On one hand, it states " It professionally sharpens, steels or strops all brands and types of knives; straight edge or serrated, kitchen, Asian style, sports and pocket knives in seconds."

        On the other hand, the comparison sheet states that it is not designed for Asian style knives (15-16 double bevel knives)... so that is kind of weird:


        Looking at its design, I do not think it can.

        I am more of a waterstone guy, so I personally am not a big fan of electric sharpeners, but they should work fine for most kitchen knvies, just don't put cowboy's new knife through it. :P

        4 Replies
        1. re: Chemicalkinetics

          Hi Chem.. I imagine they are referring to companies who are making the popular Santoku blades, but maintaining the 20 degree edge they use on all their other knives. So, Asian is probably just a blanket description of general style here, not the angle.

          1. re: grnidkjun

            That makes sense. Thank.

            So how do you sharpen your Shun knives? Send them back to Shun (KAI) factory?

            1. re: Chemicalkinetics

              I haven't had to yet. The Cooks Warehouse in Atlanta has a guy that comes in there with his own stones and strops. I may take them there when the time comes.

              Or.. I may get something like the chefs choice 15/20.. I haven't made up my mind yet.

          2. re: Chemicalkinetics

            "just don't put cowboy's new knife through it. :P"
            ::voice cracking, tears rolling:: Why would you even bring up such a horrid thought?!

          3. The 130 will work alot better than the 110. The 110 has the vibrating disks, where the 130 has discs that spin so it will achieve better results quicker. But stay away if you are using asian knives with a 15 degree angle. These units are set up for a 20 degree angle.

            1. To say what l always say, l do not have the skill to use a whetstone. l have been using Chef's choice sharpeners since the early 1980's. Currently have a 120, which is very similar to the 130 and as always am delighted. Still get my Japanese fish knives sharpened at Korin. To my eye have lost no steel on my carbon steel knives over the years, must have lost some but cannot see difference.

              1. I have the 110. I have Henckels too, but they are the twins. I have been using the 110 on them for years. It's not perfect but my knives are very, very sharp,have no complaints- but I don't fawn all over my knives either. The 110 is slow, I would assume that the newer ones are much faster and that would be nice.

                1. I've had a 130 for a couple years. I mostly have Victorinox stamped knives and F. Dick German forged knives. My comments echo/confirm those of Cowboyardee and Mikie. I'm very happy with the purchase...as long as it lasts a good ten more years without servicing. The 130 does slightly/lightly scratch my blades, but since they are good and sharp, I don't mind the blemishes. When my (impressed) friends drive to my house, they usually bring a couple of their chefs or boning knives for me to sharpen. My watchful neighbors must think it's a bit freaky to see a guy or gal knocking on my door, knife in hand.

                  1. I've had a 130 for 5 years or so. I'm completely satisfied with it. I use it on Wusthofs, a Tojiro Gyuto, a couple of Shuns and a motley collection of other knives. It's quick and the edges I get are just fine for my purposes. Yeah, the knife fanatics sneer bud I'd rather spend my time cooking than sharpening.

                    2 Replies
                    1. re: TwoDogsDad

                      ::sneers really, really hard::

                      No, it's fine. Whatever works for you.

                      I will say I don't really see the point of buying a Tojiro or a Shun if you're just gonna run them through a chefs choice - you'll get pretty much the same performance out of a forschner treated the same way.

                      But still, plenty of people with shuns (Tojiros too) rarely if ever sharpen, or use devices far less effective than a chefs choice 130. A chefs choice will certainly keep a knife sharp enough to be useful, which is the most important thing.

                      1. re: TwoDogsDad


                        I don't think it is sneering. However, Tojiro and Shun knives can take on a much finer edge that are produced from a ChefChoice, and I am not talking about some 10,000 grit stone. Any normal 1000 grit stone will do a better job. In fact, most Shun knives off from the factory is finished off on a 1000 grit surface. It takes less than 1 minute for knife maintanence on a 1000 grit stone. Yes, the ChefChoice can probably finish in 10-20 sec, but is "1 minute" too much? We are not talking about sharpening every day. We are talking about every 3-6 months for 1 minute, at most maybe once a month. I think the argument that "I need that extra one minute (per 3 month) for cooking as opposed to sharpening" maybe overselling. Heck, I spent more than 1 minute writing this.

                      2. I know it's been awhile since this post, but I recently purchased the M130, and after reading (and re-reading) the instruction booklet, and having a conversation with a customer service rep at EdgeCraft, I'm still very confused about the distinctions between and uses of Stages 2 & 3. I hope someone can clarify this for me.

                        After my conversation with the customer service rep I was left believing that after using Stage 1, I should use Stage 3 to remove the burr and sharpen the edge. Then, regular maintenance should be done using Stage 2, in exactly the same way as I'd use a steel, prior to using the knife, every time. When the knife starts feeling dull, I should use Stages 1 & 3 again.

                        But then I went back to the instruction booklet, and that's just not what it says. The instructions say to use Stage 2 immediately after using Stage 1. Then use Stage 3 for "the ultimate steeled edge." So now I'm wondering -- when/why would I NOT want the "ultimate steeled edge"?

                        Can anyone help me sort this out?

                        30 Replies
                        1. re: CindyJ

                          I don't remember my model number, but I believe all the 3 stage Chefs Choice work similarly. Stage 1 is to grind the edge to the first stage, this is the agressive grinding and typically only has to be done when sharpening a really dull knife to reestablish the edge. Then to stage 2 to actually finely grind and hone the edge, and finally to stage 3 for final honing and the sharpest edge. Stages 2 & 3 are repeated when the knife starts to dull. You don't want to use stage 1 more than necessary as that is the agressive grinding stage. Stages 2 and 3 are more for touching up the edge to get it back to full sharpness. I know they've made some changes, but mine has more of a grinding action on stage 1 and a back and forth motion on stages 2&3 which resembles honing or steeling to some degree, although I would still use a regular steel prior to using the knife, and not the Chefs Choice.

                          Hope this helps some,

                          1. re: mikie

                            As Mikie said, Stage 1 is only to 'set' the angle, l have never used on my knives after the first time sharpened, Stage 2 is for sharpening, Stage 3 is for 'steeling' As l like the slight grab, l only use stage 2, maybe not as sharp, but feel the sharpness better.

                            1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                              Not true. On the 130 stage 2 is a simple steel. It doesn't "sharpen" per se, it merely aligns the edge the same as a handheld steel does, and is what you want for day-to-day maintenance. Stage 3 is a stropping stage, used to further refine the aligned edge obtained from stage 2. I wouldn't call what it does sharpening as much as polishing for less drag in the cut.

                          2. re: CindyJ

                            Forget about whether stage 3 is like the 'steeled edge.' Forget about burrs, since the chefs choice isn't really designed for the user to have to worry about them. Don't worry about the instruction book or what a customer service rep told you. Here is what you NEED to know:

                            Each abrasive is increasingly fine (3 is the finest and least aggressive, 1 is the coarsest and fastest at grinding metal), and each abrasive is set at an increasingly obtuse angle (3 is the most obtuse, 1 the most acute).

                            After you understand that, there's no absolute right or wrong way to use the Chefs Choice. You could jump straight from stage 1 to stage 3 or sharpen only at stage 2 avoiding the others. Just understand what you are doing.

                            But here is the traditional way to use the Chefs Choice - basically, the first time you use it on any individual knife, you should use each stage in succession, making sure the edge is sharp at stage 2 before moving on to stage 3 - here you are reprofiling the edge to the edge pro shape. You are creating that triple beveled edge, the 'Trizor' they advertise.

                            Afterward, if you don't let the knife get too dull, you can just retouch the edge on stage 3 to get the edge back. You don't have to go down to stage 2 unless stage 3 doesn't work - eventually you'll let the knife get too dull, and stage 3 isn't made for a lot of grinding.

                            BUT>>>>>> If you never go down to stage 1 or 2, eventually you'll sharpen away enough steel that your wide obtuse stage 3 bevel is too big, leaving the knife too thick behind its edge - at that point it starts getting harder and harder to cut things even though the edge itself is sharp. Using stage 1 and 2 keeps the knife thin behind the edge and keeps that obtuse stage 3 bevel from getting too thick. The stage 3 bevel is meant to be a microbevel - a super small bevel just at the cutting edge. So even if stage 3 alone is creating an edge that is reasonably sharp, every once in a while you want to drop down to stage 2 and create a sharp edge with just that stage before finishing and touching up on stage 3. Stage 1 you might use once every few years to keep the area behind the smaller bevels thin.

                            Depending on your knives and how you use em, you actually might find you prefer the stage 2 edge to the stage 3 edge. It's more acute and coarser and it will cut more aggressively. Some people avoid stage 3 all together, but if you do this you have to be careful not to remove too much steel when sharpening at stage 2.

                              1. re: cowboyardee

                                Cowboy -- can you elaborate just a bit more for me on two things you've said.

                                (1) "...if you don't let the knife get too dull, you can just retouch the edge on stage 3 to get the edge back. You don't have to go down to stage 2 unless stage 3 doesn't work - eventually you'll let the knife get too dull, and stage 3 isn't made for a lot of grinding."

                                (2) "Some people avoid stage 3 all together, but if you do this you have to be careful not to remove too much steel when sharpening at stage 2."

                                I'm confused because I thought it was Stage 3 that could remove too much steel from the knives. The instruction booklet says, "Whenever your knives appear to lose their "bite" or to be slightly dull, you can recondition the edge to its prior performance with only about 10 pairs of alternating pulls in Stage 2." I thought Stage 2 was for regular and frequent maintenance -- like using a steel. Are you saying that it's actually Stage 3 that's used in that way?

                                Let me re-phrase my question: After my knives have been properly sharpened, which stage should I use for regular maintenance? If I'm understanding your explanation, I think you'll say "Stage 3," and to use it sparingly.

                                By the way, yours is the best explanation of the M130 I've seen anywhere.

                                1. re: CindyJ

                                  Cindy, I must apologize. I wrote the above post under the assumption that the 130 was built pretty much like the other Chefs Choice electric sharpeners. Unfortunately, after looking into the matter a bit more (which is surprisingly hard - Chef's Choice does not have particularly good descriptive information on their website), I discovered this was not the case.

                                  Stage 1 and 3 work roughly as I stated - stage 1 is an aggressive, acute-angle sharpener; stage 3 is slightly more obtuse and less aggressive.

                                  But stage 2 is non-powered, and attempts to mimic a honing steel. I suspect it is set at the same angle as stage 1, though I cannot verify this for certain. I also suspect from some of the literature that it has some ribbing or other file-like quality that is intended to scratch tiny, microscopic serrations into the edge, in order to make it cut more aggressively for some smooth surfaced foodstuffs (such as tomato skins). The extent to which it removes metal (if at all) will be dependant upon whether/how much pressure you use when using this stage.

                                  In other words, BruceMcK is correct. The only thing I might add to his post is that you might even find a compromise that you like by using the stages in succession (stage 1, 2, then 3). As long as you don't use stage 3 for very long, some of the toothiness produced from stage 2 should remain, leaving you with a fairly polished edge with some extra bite. If you do this, when it comes time to resharpen use stages 2 and then 3 until you have a hard time creating a sharp edge doing this. You may also find you don't need stage 2 at all.

                                  As BruceMcK pointed out, you'll be best off experimenting a little bit. The pitfalls to avoid - stage 1 is probably pretty aggressive, so don't spend too much time on it (though don't be so shy that you don't use it enough to create a sharp edge in the first place either). Don't apply too much pressure. Smooth, even strokes.

                                  1. re: cowboyardee

                                    I have a Model 110 and one of the things that I have found annoying over the years is that instead of having a couple models for various uses (Western, Asian, scissors) and refining those models they keep adding more. With the 110 I've never been very happy with the 3rd stage results. I prefer to stop at stage 2 and use a steel when needed. The manuals and website information is some of the worst ever printed.

                                    1. re: SanityRemoved

                                      "The manuals and website information is some of the worst ever printed."


                                      Yeah, it almost seems like they're deliberately trying to add some mysticism to a process that definitely should not be mystical.

                                      On their website, they have information along with diagrams telling people they should use a Chef's Choice to apply double bevel edges to traditional Japanese single bevel knives - that this is the how single bevel Japanese knives are always sharpened. This is such bad advice that I was literally cursing at my computer screen reading it.

                                      1. re: cowboyardee

                                        "On their website, they have information along with diagrams telling people they should use a Chef's Choice to apply double bevel edges to traditional Japanese single bevel knives"

                                        Please show us the link so that we may all curse at our computers.

                                    2. re: cowboyardee

                                      "But stage 2 is non-powered, and attempts to mimic a honing steel. I suspect it is set at the same angle as stage 1, though I cannot verify this for certain. I also suspect from some of the literature that it has some ribbing or other file-like quality that is intended to scratch tiny, microscopic serrations into the edge, "

                                      I puzzled over Chef's Choice description of stage 2 and how pulling the knife across a non-powered cylindrical piece of hard steel "develops a shaving sharp edge with ultra-sharp microscopic teeth, providing a superior edge 'bite'."

                                      My hypothesis is that stage 1 is a medium grit diamond grinding wheel and the diamonds leave micro-scratches on the bevel, creating the microscopic teeth to which the manufacturer's literature refers. Stage 2 steels the edge, aligning it, but does not remove the micro-scratches on the bevel. Stage 3 strops the edge, removing the micro-scratches on the bevel leaving a polished edge. Just a hypothesis though.

                                      1. re: BruceMcK

                                        You're certainly right about stage 1. Stage 3 sounds like a powered buffing wheel of sorts set at a more obtuse angle, and usually those do remove a bit of metal, albeit slowly - enough to create a microbevel.

                                        You could be right about stage 2. If anyone who has one of these things wants to donate it to science and perform an autopsy, we could find out for sure. But you say you were puzzled how a cylindrical piece of hardened steel can create microscopic teeth - if the honing steel is textured and harder than the steel of your knife, it doesn't necessarily just realign an edge (which you'd have no real reason to do after either of the other two stages anyway). It actually can scratch an edge into a toothier pattern. You can get the same effect using a grooved honing steel and applying a decent bit of pressure while steeling.

                                        I took Chefs Choice at their word, and so I'm thinking that stage 2 is textured. But in truth much of their information is so vague and misleading that I can't say this with any real confidence.

                                        Heck, stage 2 may actually be designed to deburr and not actually be anything like a honing steel, for all I know. Chefs choice doesn't exactly make it easy to find out.

                                      2. re: cowboyardee

                                        Thanks, cowboy. One of the things I was hoping to find in the replies here is consistency, and now, between what you've said and what Bruce has said, I'm beginning to see a much clearer picture.

                                  2. re: CindyJ

                                    Cindy, the Chef’s Choice marketing and product descriptions are so confusing even their own staff has a hard time understanding them.

                                    The M130 is different than the M120 and M110. M130 is for knives like well cared for kitchen knives that you will never let get really dull. M110 and M120 are more general purpose, for use on utility knives and hunting knives that may take some abuse and need a coarse first stage to resharpen.

                                    _M120_ has 3 powered stages. The first stage is very coarse, really intended for re-sharpening a very dull knife. Stage 2 is medium and leaves a slightly coarse fluted edge. Stage 3 is fine and leaves a polished surface on the very edge. For regular touch ups just use stage 3. Then when stage 3 does not seem to get it sharp use stage 2 followed by stage 3. Only use stage 1 for a very dull knife. There are some other subtleties in the angle of the surface that each stage produces.

                                    _M130_ has 2 powered stages. Stage 1 is medium, and stage 3 does very fine stropping/polishing to polish away the slight roughness that stage 1 leaves. Stage 2 is non-powered, and is similar to using a grooved steel. It aligns and straightens the very edge but does not polish the slightly rough surface like ultra fine serrations behind the edge that stage 1 leaves. The M130 does not have anything as coarse as stage 1 on the M110 and M120.

                                    From the 130 description on their web site: “Stage 1, using 100 percent diamond abrasives, sharpens the edge. Stage 2 is a super-hardened miniature steel that develops a shaving sharp edge with ultra-sharp microscopic teeth, providing a superior edge "bite". In Stage 3, a revolutionary flexible stropping disk polishes the edge to hair-splitting sharpness.”

                                    So here is my understanding after reading the M130 literature about 20 times. For an edge with a bit of roughness and bite like very fine serrations, use stage 1 followed by stage 2, then use stage 2 for regular touch-ups. For a fine polished edge use stage 1 followed by stage 3, then use stage 3 for regular touch-ups.

                                    My advice is if you have 2 paring knives do one on stage 1 then 2. Do the other on stage 1 then 3. See which edge you like better on various types of food. Once you decide that, you can then use stage 2 like you would a steel, prior to every use or every few times you use the knife. Only go back to stage 1 when the knife feels dull. If I was the designer I would have reversed the order of stage 2 and 3, so it is clear: sharpen (medium grit), then strop, then steel, but maybe they had other design reasons for the order of the stages.

                                    All this after the good Chowhound members have convinced me that I really should get serious and use waterstones.

                                    1. re: BruceMcK

                                      Thanks for your input, l have a 120, thus my method is correct for my sharpener. It seems one might need a 120 and a 130, if only for stage 1 on the 120, then to use the 130 from that point on. And l am trying to make my life simple, whew.

                                      1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                                        You and cowboy are starting to turn into Chef's Choice experts...Ha ha ha.

                                        1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                                          If one wants a steel (like stage 2 on the 130), just buy a steel for one tenth of the price of an electric sharpener.

                                        2. re: BruceMcK

                                          Bruce -- thanks for taking the time to review the product literature so carefully, and for your explanation and advice. Now, if you could take your explanation just one step further for me, I think I'll be good to go.

                                          You say, "For an edge with a bit of roughness and bite like very fine serrations, use stage 1 followed by stage 2, then use stage 2 for regular touch-ups. For a fine polished edge use stage 1 followed by stage 3, then use stage 3 for regular touch-ups." So.. can you give me a couple of examples of when I'd want to use "an edge with a bit of roughness," and a couple of examples of when I'd want to use "a fine polished edge"? Also, does that mean I might want to change the type of edge on any given knife, based on how I'm going to use it that day? Or does it mean I should find the type of edge that suits my needs in general, and stick with it?

                                          1. re: CindyJ

                                            A fine polished edge leaves cleaner cuts and is better at straight up and down chopping, but can sort of skate on top of some foods when used with a slicing motion.

                                            A rough edge bites into food very aggressively when slicing. Some people prefer a coarser edge for things like very ripe tomatoes or cutting bread.

                                            Ultimately it's personal preference. Some people prefer a coarser edge for everything while others prefer a more polished edge for everything. When I sharpen, I leave some knives rougher than others - I'll sharpen paring knives to a very polished edge and slicing knives to a coarser edge; I'll sharpen very good knives to a finer edge than I will crappier knives, etc.

                                            1. re: cowboyardee

                                              Exactly what Cowboyardee said.

                                              Cindy I would not change the type of edge on any given knife depending on what you are going to cut. As Cowboyardee said, determine what finish you like on each of your knives, and that may vary among shapes and sizes of knives, but not depending on what you are cutting that day. Just don't use stage 1 too often; only when the knife feels dull and regular touch-ups on stage 2 or 3 won't bring it back.

                                              I debated between the 120 and 130 myself, but decided to go back to my Boy Scout roots and re-learn sharpening on stones instead. I think for most people a good electric sharpener is a fine choice, since they don't want to learn to sharpen on stones, and finding a local sharpener that can do a good job can be hard.

                                              1. re: BruceMcK

                                                "my Boy Scout roots"

                                                My boy scout education is very lacking. I only learned to start a fire, fry eggs and sausages, tie knots, and sew buttons... Pretty sure they forgot to teach me about knife sharpening.

                                                1. re: Chemicalkinetics

                                                  Chem it was actually my dad that taught me knife sharpening, before going on a boy scout trip.

                                                  You would love my broadaxe. The blade is about a foot wide. It is single bevel, but I don't think that means it is Japanese, and I really doubt that it is VG-10. :o)

                                              2. re: cowboyardee

                                                This has been unbelievably helpful. The knife I generally use for slicing tomatoes will serve me best if I sharpen it with Stage 2; the knife I use for chopping onions, garlic and herbs will work best when sharpened with Stage 3. Paring knives, most likely, should be done with Stage 3. By George, I think I've got it!!!!!

                                                1. re: CindyJ

                                                  I have been "off the grid" and in a place with very spotty internet connection for a few days.

                                                  Please let us know how it works on your knives and how you like it.

                                                  1. re: BruceMcK

                                                    Here's what I can tell you so far: I sliced some fresh basil into a chiffonade with a paring knife after sharpening it with stages 1&3, and I was very pleased. I sliced tomatoes with a 8" chef's knife after giving it the 1&2, and the knife went through them effortlessly. And I chopped some parsley with another 8" chef's knife after a 1&3 sharpening, and I was amazed at how cleanly it chopped.

                                                    So what's different for me now is that I've sort of dedicated my knives to different cutting/chopping/slicing tasks. So far, I'm pleased, and I think I'm getting the hang of the different sharpening functions. I'm really impressed with the abilities of this knife sharpener. It's quick and easy to use, and for someone like me, who has never been able to sharpen knives successfully, this machine makes perfect sense.

                                                    1. re: CindyJ

                                                      Like everyone said, don't go crazy on stage 1. If possible, try to maintain your knives on stage 2 or stage 3. When stage 2 or stage 3 does not work anymore, then go to stage 1. Best.

                                                      1. re: Chemicalkinetics

                                                        Thanks, ChemicalK. That Stage 1 sharpening was because ALL of my knives needed it. Up until now, I've been fairly lax about sharpening my knives -- mostly because I lacked the skill and the tools. I think I'm back on track now.

                                            2. re: BruceMcK

                                              Don't know if you will receive notice of this reply - hope you do - I want to THANK YOU - for this great discussion on Chef's Choice. I was as lost and confused as CindyJ on the Model 130. Their user manual obviously hasn't changed in a year's time. You and cowboyardee were a GREAT HELP.

                                          2. I read nothing but outstanding reviews on the M-130. I do not agree. I have Wustof Classic Ikon knifes. They had a beautiful vertical finish. A few runs through the plastic guides marred the finish with big gouges from the guides. My knife is sharp but not so pretty. :(

                                            I cant sharpen a knife any other way so I will live with it. Is there another method that will get them even sharper w/o messing them up?

                                            1 Reply
                                            1. re: TDAWG357

                                              You might look at the Work Sharp site.

                                              They have a demo and these seem to be available at Amazon, Northern Tool and Cabelas etc. Most of the reviews are pretty good.

                                              I used it and like it. Which doesn't mean much.

                                            2. I use the M130 for my knives regularly and love it. It puts the "bite" on the knives to slice meat, sausage, tomatoes, etc. I love it and will never go back.

                                              Beware, beware...it will scratch your knives and change the "factory" angle but once you get over that, it's pure, wicked slicing & dicing. My knives are the sharpest knives I've ever used, all the time. I use the #1 slot sparingly, but "steel" the knives regularly to get that "bite."

                                              Additionally, I have a Shun Asian cleaver-style knife that I was unsure if it was a one-side bevel blade or not. It became kind of worthless because it was dull and dinged. I ran it though the #1 slot and #3 slot and was slicing and dicing away.

                                              I use only 4 knives (chef, paring, carving, and serrated) and the Shun. The only one you can't do much about is the serrated -- only slot #3. But that's just a bread knife anyway. They are all wicked deadly sharp due to the M130 and a pure joy to use.

                                              I would never not have a similar sharpener again. If super-sharp knives and home convenience are what you want, and you're not going too freak out because your Wusthov or Shun is a little scratch, then this is the ticket. Everybody who has used my knives say they are the best. Hope this helps.

                                              PS. I'm looking for a .pdf of the M130 owner's manual. Can anybody help?

                                              1 Reply