Munich - looking for approach to eating there
- jen kalb Jan 25, 2011 08:18 AM
Looks like I will be spending a week in Munich and surrounds in end of June.
Ive looked at some of the posts here and paged through some guidebooks but this is my first visit to Germany and I need to get oriented.
(1) are there any recommendable food guides to germany or the Munich/Bavaria area? the guidebook info is not exactly inspiring me (havent checked michelin yet) German language books would be ok. Any German or Munich food websites that I should take a look at.
(2) love pork, dumplings kraut and such but could not tolerate a steady diet of this for a week - looking for some places with more varied fare - any recommendations for excellent eating (maybe including mushrooms, game, fish, more vegetables) that does not break the bank? Are there any must visit places you would recommend
(3 My husband is a beer drinker but I really drink only wine. Any recommendations for wine-oriented dining or advice on what is available to drink (other than beer) in the beer gardens?
(4) Id be interested in trying turkish and other non-German food if there is anything really good on offer (we will be in Italy for the following 2 weeks) Any recommendations of good restuarants or neighborhoods where I could find good Turkish/other foreign chow?
(5) We will be renting an apartment for our visit - just beginning our research on this - any recommendations for likely neighborhoods that offer good local eating/food shopping or what I should be looking for?
(6) we may be taking one or more day trips during our stay via public transit. Any good recommendations f for delicious eating in Augsburg, Nurnberg, Salzbug or the adjoining alps area?
(7) any special fruits, vegetables or other seasonal foods in the area at that time of year ? Where to find these?
thanks a million for any help you can give!
Hi. I haven't eaten out a ton in Munich so I can't help you with most of your questions, but can provide a few tips.
First, I generally find Michelin to be more reliable for Germany than say Zagats. If you can read German than Gault Millau is also a good book. And Marcellino's casts a wider net, but can also be helpful.
Check out the Viktualien Markt while you are there. It is a large outdoor & indoor market in the city center, not far from Marienplatz. Be sure to visit the indoor part where they have all the gourmet stands. This is where we always go for lunch.
I can't recommend any specific places to get wine, but I can highly recommend German Riesling, which should be available in most restaurants and even some beer halls. Unlike German wine exported to the US, it is not all sweet and syrupy. Just ask for ''trocken'' if you like dry white wine. We especially look for riesling from Rheingau.
Also beware that credit cards are not as widely accepted in German as in other countries. Catching on more and more, but you should always check in restaurants (even upscale ones) before assuming and running into trouble when the bill arrives.
Might want to check out the Haidhausen neighborhood for an apartment. Residential area with lots of nice restaurants and cafes.
I've enjoyed seafood at the Austern Keller ( Oyster Cellar), but I haven't visited recently. http://www.austernkeller.de/
For traditional German food, I like Spatenhaus an der Oper, which is probably the most upscale of the restaurants owned/operated/connected to the major breweries (not sure how that works) with white tablecloths, refined service, etc.. While they serve Spaten beer, they also have wine available. I also have enjoyed meals at the Paulaner. The Ratskeller also serves reasonably good German food at good prices.
If you're craving vegetables, most family-style German restaurants offer a Gemischter Salat (Mixed Salad) that includes half a dozen different salads (carrot salad, cole slaw, bean salad, beets, tomatoes, etc) and sometimes a fried egg (Spiegel Ei). This often is a meal in itself.
Also, most restaurants tend to have a couple soups on the menu, and the soups I've ordered in Germany and Austria tend to be a lot tastier than most soups I've ordered in North America.
Maultaschen is a lighter south German specialty you'll find in some restos in Munich (it's Swabian, but Swabia isn't far from Bavaria)- basically a type of ravioli.
I tend to stick to German food when I'm in Munich, so I'm not much help wrt Turkish or other types of cuisine. That being said, there are a lot of cheap Turkish restos close to the main train station, and their versions of spanakopita/burek/etc always look tempting when I've walked by. Pardi was recommended for Turkish in a previous thread- thought I'd include the link: http://www.pardi-restaurant.de/
Prinz Myshkin is a vegetarian restaurant I haven't tried, but I hope to try it on a future visit to Munich. http://www.prinzmyshkin.com/en
The department stores usually have nice food halls in their lower level. Worth checking out while you're there. Dallmayr is a gourmet food shop & coffee house that is really worth a visit. http://www.dallmayr.com/
Have enjoyed the mushroom soups in the Alps. Also, some parts of the Austrian Alps do great fried chicken (Austrian-style).
One treat I like when I'm visiting the Austrian Alps are the Krapfen from the local bakeries (Berliner donuts usually filled with apricot jam). Many restos also have apricot dumplings.
Second the idea of using Gault Millau. http://www.gaultmillau.de/
I also sometimes use Tripadvisor's restaurant search, but read the reviews w a shaker of salt. http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Restaurants...
The selection of produce available in mid-June should be amazing. The German markets are nice places to shop during the summer, and many restaurants tend to have seasonal menus, featuring whatever is in its prime.
thanks much! I am looking forward to cooking with the local products as well as eating out.
Are there areas in the city - aside from the Viktualien Mkt and the dept store food halls that are good for food shopping and browsing? Good bakeries? Or is the availability of good food pretty much spread through all the residential neighborhoods? Its nice to rent somewhere where the shopping is pretty good.
Interesting that Gault Millau is reliable in Germany - we had an absolutely rock-bottom experience using it in Italy for one trip (many years ago)
re: jen kalb
the DK Eyewitness guides are generally very good -- photos of regional specialties and paragraphs scattered throughout of things to look for.
Munich in June is a fabulous time -- long summer evening just designed for sitting outside and people watching.
Do try weissbier - wheat beer -- lightly chilled with a slice of lemon floating on it -- it's not American beer...and that's a very good thing.
The restos in Munich have fabulous summer menus -- the knudel and pork knuckle are on the tourist menus, but that's winter food.
Go with the specialties - fish, salads, lovely lighter soups...you won't be disappointed -- Munich summer food is very tasty, despite its reputation otherwise.
re: jen kalb
I've stayed downtown anytime I've visited over the last 10 years, so I'm not too familiar with the residential neighbourhoods. That being said, I've had delicious baked goods from bakeries further afield. I think you'll find good bakeries throughout Munich & the more residential areas.
Rischart is a small chain of bakeries in Munich, which has offers reasonably priced pastries, breads and sandwiches. They have take-out and tall tables where you can have a quick bite, as well as a tea room where you can have table service. http://www.rischart.de/
Rischart locations http://www.rischart.de/index.php?entr...
Haven't gone shopping in the residential parts of Munich in a very long time, and I'm not sure which areas would be best for food & restos outside the core. In general, I've been happy with the quality that I've found in grocery stores anytime I've gone shopping in Germany or Austria.
I guess you should also take GM with some salt, just to be safe- apart from Michelin, I'm not aware of another online resource that covers Germany. Hopefully someone else will pipe in!
Many of our favorites of the beer halls also have a decent wine selection, and the Ratskeller at the Marienhoff also has a small wine bar and separate wine-focused restaurant. Good rieslings, Gewurtztraminer and Grunervetliner are to had both there and at places like Andechs am Dom and Der Pschorr. At the later, I often drink wine while my husband has the beer (excellent pinot blanc this last trip). The beer gardens will also have at least a small selection of wines and some non-alcoholic drinks, and I also second the recommendation to at least try the weissebier.
You'll also find winebars around Munich.
I'm not sure what the specialties are in June, as we're always in Munich at the end of October. Game is generally a late fall thing, but there may be other times it's available.
You'll find a good seasonal specials at Andechs am Dom and Der Pschorr -- and I've never had a big problem finding veggies at either, at least in the form of market salads. There will be fish on the menus as well, although not in as great a quantity as the pork, poultry and beef/ veal products. In fact today's specials on their menu include a wide variety of rabbit dishes.
Der Pschorr has a good website, with both the daily specials and the regular menu posted, so you can get a good idea of what a better beer hall menu might be like. We think Der Pschorr is one of the best, and they are part of the Slow Food Movement as well, particularly for their beef. Many of the dishes come with plenty of veggies from the victualienmarkt (Der Pschorr is on one end of the market) and they've been perfectly prepared and lovely. Andechs am Dom, while smaller and a more limited menu, has even better food and plenty of seasonal specials.
topping this post because my departure for Munich is nearing. thanks for the many useful responses. I also enjoyed reading many wonderful older threads. I know we will be barely scratchin the surface of the Munich food culture, but we are really looking forward to it. We are staying in sort of a backwater south of the Center, not that far from the Flaucher biergarten. wondering if there are any recommendations between that area and the Center?
Any chowhound views on the following places S of center:
Atelier Gourmet (Haidhausen)
and a few others elsewhere,
what about eating choices (lunch) near Nymphenburg Palace?
Ive seen mention of these but Im not convinced.
Any Really Outstanding non-European food?
Im thinking indonesian, or kurdish/turkish or such? I saw somewhere mention of a central asian restaurant, but seem to have lost it.
Any place that its worth taking a long ride into the suburbs to visit?
Finally, for bierhall/garten type restaurants, which of the following do you like best? We are not hot on a boisterous, crowded atmosphere,and have taken note of the recommendations for Der Pschorr,Spatenhaus an der Oper and Andechs an Dom
thanks for the useful info in this thread and the other Bavarian thread now active
Schönfeldstraße 22, Munich, BY 80539, DE
re: jen kalb
I like Halali, usually try to get there at least once in October for the game menu. Haven't spent much time near Nymphenburg but I've heard good things about both those places. Geisel's is great but at some point the word got out and it gets unbearably crowded.
Of the Germans, Dürnbraü and Franziskaner are reliable. Bratwurstglöckl has the absolute best Nürnberger bratwurst in Munich. (I've never bothered with anything else :-) Wasn't crazy about Hackerhaus, and Weisses has been a disappointment every time I've been there.
I don't think I've ever seen a street vendor in Munich!
Haven't been to Atelier Gourmet either but it has gotten very good reviews.
Schönfeldstraße 22, Munich, BY 80539, DE
re: jen kalb
Der Pschorr, Spatenhaus and Andechs are the best in our opinion of the bierhall-type places, although if you want Nurnberger brats the Nurnberger Bratwurstglobckl is indeed the place to go. Der Pschorr seems to have updated their menu recently and it looks better -- and more varied -- than ever. A lot of specials highlighting some particular livestock producers and some lighter entrees have been added to the main menu.
The Weisses Brauhaus is worth a stop for breakfast, but otherwise suggest you just go for the weissebier.
I can't be specific with actual names, but the street vendors have GREAT yummy food. Street food rules. Everyone takes their dogs into stores and restaurants but leave their babies in prams on the sidewalk! Excellent ice wines made from frozen grapes, very inexpensive and easily available. Tell your husband the beer is waaaaay more potent than American. In my experience the pastries look beautiful but taste like..well..nothing, but the brochen are substantial hearty and delicious, and you can't go wrong with a wurst , frites, and Turkish kebabs. You are LUCKY! Remember "The Producers"?
re: jen kalb
Sorry I didn't see this before, Jen. We were in Brussels last week. I'd say Brenner's is a good experience as they don't just have pasta, which will definitely be a lot of what you'll eat in Italy. From what I remember, my main was grilled shrimp, and the desserts are very varied with tons to choose from. It just seemed a different ambiance other than a typical, Munich restaurant and reminded me of Manhattan. :-)
Completing a lovely visit to Munich, we found in the end that we did not eat in any of the formal restaurants - we were always tired and tempted into one of the traditional beerhall related restaurants when dinner time rolled around, and the places we most enjoyed were those which have been most recommended here.
Spatenhaus an der Oper - once in their groundfloor rest and one meal in the sidewalk cafe.
I had pfifferlingen and fried smoked fish in a light cream sauce - husband had roast pork with potato dumplings in beer sauce. both excellent - mine in particular was very delicate and tasty., with a nice fried crust on the fish, plenty of pfifferlinge and just the right amount of delicate sauce. The red cabbage with apples that accompanied Jim's plate was deliciously spiced withk I think, cinnamon and clove, but too sweet (in my opinion) However, his potato dumplings were the best of the visit.
Second meal at spatenhaus, today, was a late morning snak that turned in to lunch, so pleasant in their outdoor cafe that we sat for an hour and half. Jim ordered a dish of warm lebenkase I the kaiserschmarr'n . Again, both dishes really, really good, the leberkase light textured and tasty, the dessert (sort of reminiscent of a thick crepe), with a dish of very high quality applesauce on the side, delicate, nicely textured and much too much for one person. Since the preparation time for the dessert was half an hour, we actually shared both dishes and some was left behind. By the way, Spatenhaus's standard cup of coffee was really wonderful strong(Dallmyer), have a cup if you go. Upscale crowd but casual, as with all these places.
Two meals also at Der Pschorr (when we got tired, there they were,thankfully) - First meal, I had a herring salad, with finely chopped vegetables, pickle and I think apple, in a creamy dressing, excellent, Jim had blood sausage, also very good, second meal, I had a plate of lukewarm boiled beef served with a small bunch of thyme and a scallion brush, a dish of impeccable steamed vegetables and a selection of oils to dress it. Jim had the beef roulade. Again, very good, I was not in love with the filling of the roulade, but liked the beef and the sauce very well. JIm drank their Helles both times, I had a Franconian red the second time, very drinkable. Also their apple strudel, with vanilla sauce - an ample serving, with both components very good but the strudel dough was not crisp - maybe because of the sauce.
One meal Andechser am Dom. Slightly less refined cooking than the above two, but very good and very enjoyable. My duck was a bit overcooked (mass production), the guy at the next table had one that looked pinker, but Jim's fried ground veal patties and accompanying potato salad were excellent and he liked his bock bier, I my riesling. ;Service as at all these places was very friendly.
One dinner at Zum Durnbrau (Fiday night, the Tal was a Zoo, Weisses Brauhaus unapproachable (never did get there to try the weissbier) but Zum Durnbrau, down a small alley was relatively calm and had room at oune of the long communal tables. I had a plate of excellent spanferkel (roast suckling pig) in dark beer sauce, liked this better than Jim's roast pork at Spatenhaus, lots of crispy skin, Jim had a layered cold salad of (bottom layer) sliced dumplings (it looked like made from pretzel) top layer sausage - with sliced raw onions and a vinegar dressing. It was sort of jokey because the two set of slices looked the same except the pork layer was pinker. Waitresses were under more pressure here but service still fine and the crowd was friendly,. Like all these places a mix of couples, groups of friends, and families I was actually not aware of any other tourists in any of them.
Art museums all have restaurant/cafes - we had a decent meal at the very comfortable cafe in te Alte Pinacotek, restaurants sort of thin on the ground in the museum district - we had decent lunch also at Park Cafe biergarten in the Alte Botanic Garden and at a place with a Polish (?) name on the corner of Baringstr and Thereisenstr across from the Neue Pinacotek.
Alte Pinocatek is one of the great museums of Europe, but without the crowds, like Capodimonte in Naples..I loved Munich for its great interest, and very nice environment but without the pressure of mass tourism.
Got caught in the rain at Nymphenberg Palace - grabbed lunch at their cafe. Average food but the highly recommended this visit,, the Amalienberg pavilion and the adjacent, amazing Botanic Garden are very special.
I never cracked the beer thing in Munich but found that I enjoyed drinking the half beer-half "limonade" drinks called russn (with weissbier) and radler (with helles) so that worked.
Most places have wines (german,austrian and italian) to drink and all I drank were acceptable.
Nice fruits in the market, cherries (from all over southern europe),raspberries and some strawberries. Also the last of the white asparagus, but we had non.
breads - like one of the posters said, a wide variety of whole grain and deeded breads, tho pretzels (brez'n) was the bread served most commonly. very good. We bought good crusty whole grain bread at our local supermarket which has held up very well. A lot of the baked goods though looked a little over the top with too much cheese, too many seeds on top, etc. Quite a bread town, though.
As we depart, I am sorry that we missed out on visits to the more upscale restaurants, maybe we got a little porked-out after a couple of days, but we found the atmosphere in the traditional german places we tried to be so pleasant and friendly that I would not have wanted to choose differently. Thanks, Munich, for a really lovely visit.
Now on to Trento and Lake Garda
re: jen kalb
"a place with a Polish (?) name on the corner of Baringstr and Thereisenstr across from the Neue Pinakothek."
Cafe Tresznewski, probably. I used to stop by there for a cappucino sometimes, but the one time I had a meal there it was pretty bad. Ever popular though.
Someone told me the restaurant inside of Neue Pinakothek is very good. Real restaurant though (high end, specialize in seafood), not a cafe.
Place are thin on the ground right near the museums, but for next time, nearby Türkenstraße is charming and has a lot of good options.
I'd agree that the restaßpeciurant cafe looked good but it looked a bit pricy and asian influenced which was nd not reot what we were looking for. We had walked the lowest block of
Turkenstrasse the prior day which was the corpus christi holiday so maybe we missed something good. Any specific recs? You gave the restaurant we fid go to the correct name. Cuisine a mishmash and only really recommended for utility but I had quite a nice salad with fried calves liver and pfifferlinge and husband weisswurst so it served.
re: jen kalb
Türkenstrasse gets more lively a block further, between Schellingstr. and Adalbertstr. Lots of antique bookstores, cool clothing stores and cafes. Basically the university area. In terms of recommendations, there is really good gelato at Ballabeni across from the Brandhorst museum. Further up, Alter Simpl is very historic and worth a visit. Atzinger (same owners now) is also an old student place that's been recently nicely renovated. Actually I think that is on Amalienstr, one block down. As I said, there are a bunch of good cafes, and some nice little Italian places. Terrine (Michelin one star) is in a little courtyard between Türkenstr. and Amalienstr. Probably my favorite MIchelin place in town, even though there are fancier ones.
Mostly though it is just a nice laid back university neighborhood.
Just back from Munich and VERY happy with our choices of Der Pschorr and Brenner for our two dinners while there. Atmosphere in both is really terrific, and food was outstanding.