Various Spots in Perth
I spent the last few days in Perth and had a few good experiences and a few let downs. I spent a few days in Fremantle to be close to the beaches, and to be honest, Little Creatures.
I had breakfast on Saturday at Moore & Moore. This was a great little spot and wished I was in Fremantle longer to make it to breakfast there. It was just a good standard breakfast (eggs, bacon, toast and tomato relish), and it was the first place in a while where I got my eggs cooked properly to order, over easy. I'm not a big coffee drinker so I can't judge Moore & Moore on that base, but I'd definitely go back. Plus, it was nice walking around the contemporary art gallery attached.
I was really looking forward to dinner at the Little Creatures brewery that night after good reviews for the Chili and Shrimp pizza. Unfortunately, it doesn't look to be on the menu any more. I was a bit let down by that and the other pizzas didn't quite fill the void, so I went with a panzanella salad and the pork belly. The salad was a typical "American bar" salad. Nothing special, the bread seemed more like a crouton than grilled and was a bit soggy. The pork belly, on the other hand, was well cooked with nice salty crackling. I just wish it was served with something other than chips. The beers right from the tank were worth the disappointment of not having the pizza.
The next night for dinner I tried to go to Nahm Thai, but it was closed. I couldn't find a website and the first blog I found said it was open all nights. I was a little disappointed after cabing it there, but decided to pull out the trusty iphone to see what else was in the area. I was very happy to see the eclectic food that Northbridge had to offer. Plenty of Vietnamese, Chinese, Malaysian and more. I ended up at Viet Hoa on William Street, primarily because it was the busies on the street. While I’m sure there were other good options, a packed house is usually a good indication for me. I had a few pork spring rolls, fried chicken with fried rice and a house special roast duck stir fry. The spring rolls were pretty bland, but the dipping sauce helped out. The fried chicken was great with just the crispy skin. You could taste the char from the wok in the rice. The duck was good, but I kept going back to the rice.
I did make it back to Nahm Thai the next night and it was worth the trip back. I was a bit knackered from the day so made a quick meal of it. Starting with a duck with lychee, palm sugar and a few other ingredients I was too tired to remember. The flavors here were off the charts. It had all the salt, sweet, sour and that small kick of heat at the very end. I had no problems going for the spoon to get every last bit. Next I went with the special of the night which was the barramundi in a green curry. It was very well executed with just the right amount of heat at the end, but frankly I could have gone for a larger portion of the duck and been perfectly happy.
The last two nights I ended at Must Wine Bar. I stopped in the first night for a glass or two or three and a few bites at the bar since I got out of meetings late and was plenty fully by the end of the night. I had the charcuterie plate which had a pate en croute, pork rillettes (a bit of a guilty pleasure), black olive tapenade and a pork terrine. All were great and just enough food to go with the wines. My favorite wine of the night was the Valminor “Davila” Albarion Blend from Rias Baxias Spain. It was a nice white with a good bit of character and a nice divergence from the standard whites I get locked into drinking out of habit. I made it back the second night and had a few more of the bar bites and glasses. The Davila was a little disappointing the second night. I think I got the end of the bottle from the previous night and it didn’t fare so well. But the Stella ’08 Bella Margaret River Chardonnay was a good follow up. It had a bit more oak that I’m used to, but still let the floral notes of the grape come through at the end.
It was a good trip to Perth and was wrapped up finding a bottle of ’07 Cullen Diana Madeleine at the airport bottle shop waiting for the red eye back to Sydney. I’ll be back in a few weeks and try to get to the wine regions, but I’ll have to expand the food options to see what else the city has to offer.
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I'm in Perth for the next two weeks and looking for suggestions. This morning for coffee I tried Velvet Lounge and Tiger Tiger (I'm staying in the cbd), they were both acceptable short macs, but they weren't choose your own single origin bean - not at the level of Proud Mary or BBB in Melbourne. Where else shall I go for great coffee?
For dinner last night I was very happy with our choice of Tak Chee house on William St in Northbridge - we had 1/2 Hainanese Chicken, lo-bak and kangkong sambal. It was open on Sunday night, walking distance from the cbd and about $40 for two! Where shall we go next? We have bookings at amuse feb 1 and will go to Little Creatures on the wkend.
I'd also like a gourmet grocery store in the cbd - I found the two woolies, but was hoping for better. I found a place called Herdsmen, but it seems to have closed/gone out of business.
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re: debbieann
I don't drink coffee, but all the coffee drinkers I know lament the not-so-great coffee in Perth. I'm lead to believe Tiger Tiger is the best in the CBD. If you are able to get out of the CBD a few minutes drive away you have Milk'd in North Perth and Maylands, Mrs. S in Maylands and Hobart Deli in North Perth/Mt. Hawthorn area.
Tak Chee sounds like an excellent find, might have to try it myself :) If you're looking for something along similar lines you could try Phi Yen, which is also in Northbridge. I had a great beef pho there about a month or so ago.
As for a gourmey grocery store in the city I think you'll luck out there. The Herdsman was never that great (in my opinion) and is more just like an upscale Coles with marginally better quality produce. There is a Simon Johnson in Subiaco, but if you're looking for good quality fresh produce you really do need to get out of the CBD. Perth people are still stuck on the idea of 'trendy' dining, as opposed to good dining, which really limits the options. Good luck, I'll update if I come up with something more helpful :)
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re: TheHuntress
thanks! it does seem clear I have to get out of the CBD. Today I rode the red/blue/yellow cats and I still didn't see to much that looked interesting in terms of shopping. I did stop in Torre butcher and they said if I come back on Weds I can get goat tongues and other unusual meat choices.
Is there any sort of farmers markets during the week?
I'll check out those coffee places. We found great single origin fantastic coffee in Hobart - I thought Perth would have that level - I'll keep searching. Where is the best selection of cheese?
I will check out Phi Yen and the Good Fortune Duck place looked good too.
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re: debbieann
Ya, the CBD isn't really that fruitful in terms of getting produce. I'm not too sure about any farmers markets during the week, I do have a favourite place for fresh produce, but it is about half an hour drive out of the CBD. I believe it's worth it and regularly make the pilgrimage, but without a car it will be off limits for you. I have heard Torre butcher is excellent, I do tend to go to Mondo's just because it's 5 minutes from where I live, as opposed to the 7 minutes to Northbridge LOL
For cheeses and the such there is the REstore in Leederville - there is also one in Northbridge, but I am yet to actually go to that one, so I don't know what it's like. I do absolutely love the Leederville one though and regularly go and give them all my money LOL Otherwise there is Simon Johnson in Subiaco.
I have a friend who knows a bit about coffee in Perth, I shall pick his brains and see if he knows if it can be obtained :)
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re: TheHuntress
I'd say you are most likely to find the real turbo coffee purists at either Bench Espresso in the city, or else Elixir Coffee Specialists in Nedlands - close to the University of WA, about 10/15 minutes away by bus, either the 72 or 108 will get you there. Epic is also a good bet but I think their focus is more on perfect technique rather than the bean origin (defs correct me if i'm wrong!)
Actually just remembered Venn Gallery & Bar is also pretty thingo about coffee. Also in the city.
Slightly further than Northbridge (just continue north up Barrack St --> turns into Beaufort St) is the Mt Lawley strip, which has really come in leaps and bounds in the past couple of years. Clarence's, Five Bar, and the Beaufort St Merchant are all really lovely relaxed places but still with very thoughtful menus and drink lists, so you can have just a drink and a nibble, graze on small plates, or have a traditional entree-main-etc. meal. 399 Bar in Northbridge has a fantastic reputation also, I haven't tried it but I want to...
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re: debbieann
Stoopid me forgot to mention the DJ's food hall. It did go downhill a few years ago, but I've been lead to believe it has been faring better lately :) Again, if you can get out of the CBD and into Mt. Lawley you can try Fresh Provisions and Mondo's Butcher's runs a cool little farmers market on Saturday mornings.
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re: debbieann
Epic Espresso is also well regarded, it changed hands but is very good. However, the single origin approach is a very Melbourne thing. You may struggle to find it in other cities other than Sydney.
Northbridge is great, and most Perth people seem to be afraid of going there after dark. There are some real characterful places - the duck place is a big favourite with friends' kids - and I saw a small Shanghainese place in one of those little shopping centres that looked very interesting.
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re: debbieann
That could be it. I am unfortunately well known for paying virtually no attention to my immediate surroundings, so frequently eat in places and have no idea where I am. But if it is the place the spicy salt squid tentacles are fantastic. I haven't been to The Greenhouse for over a year. I went a fair few times but gave up in the end as the service was consistently really poor. The food was great, but I really felt the waitstaff were letting the kitchen down. Maybe this has changed?
For consistently good food, good wine/cocktails and good service, Must in Mt Lawley is worth a look in. I go there quite often and always get looked after well.
I also remember having great Japanese at a place called Bonsai in Northbridge on Roe St. (or maybe was it too much plum wine?) and if you're looking for a good place for breakfast or lunch The Walk cafe in Subiaco is worth a try.
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re: mr_gimlet
ok, more coffee research has been done and my favorite in the city is currently Ristretto, in part because it is great coffee, but also because they care so much and make an effort to be friendly. Today we went out to Elixir which was very good. We also went to Dancing Goat and the Daily which were also quite good. And we have a list of other places to try.
Epic was ok, but too many people working the machines and it wasn't the level of fanatic and friendly that I love.
Also found a good butcher in Swanbourne and a nice grocery store there too.
Mondo Butcher farmers mkt only runs sept-dec
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re: debbieann
Oh, I've been to Andaluz. Sent the sherry back because it was old - it was replaced with some grumbling - but nibbly food was OK. Like everywhere in Perth, high prices and amateur service.
I heard there was a better one in the burbs somewhere, Nedlands maybe, but I never have a car. I think it was something to do with pigs, Pata Negra maybe?
Thanks for the coffee tip, that's near my office.
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Good to see you enjoyed your trip to Perth, I love being able to read the feedback. I'm glad you enjoyed Moore & Moore - I'm not a coffee drinker either, but very much enjoyed their breakfasts, hot chocolates and lunches while I was at uni in Freo.
Hope you enjoy your next trip doing the wine regions - would love to hear about that also.

