Duck breasts -- how do you prepare them?
I rarely cook duck, but this weekend I bought a couple of moulard magret duck breast halves and made a duck and mushroom ragu with tagliatelle that was perhaps one of the most delicious dishes I've ever made. So now I'm wondering about other ways to use these duck breasts. What are your favorites?
Brussels sprouts, wild rice, and a dish my Mom makes that cooks julienned carrot, parsnip and turnip in orange juice. And cranberry sauce because of the season, but it was probably unnecessary as the sauce is so ridiculously good
Did you have a recipe for the ragu or was it an invention? It sounds great.
My recipe wasn't exactly an invention; it's more or less a hybrid of two similar recipes, one from Molly Stevens' "All About Braising" and the other from Marc Vetri's "Il Viaggio di Vetri." The idea of using the immersion blender to puree the vegetables and thicken the sauce comes from my experience with brisket gravy.
Duck and Mushroom Ragu with Tagliatelle
Serves 4 to 6
2 duck breasts (D’Artagnan Moulard Magret duck)
Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper
2 TB olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
2 stalks of celery, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 cup red wine (Chianti, Zinfandel, Rioja, Barbera are all good)
1 28-oz. can of plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed
2 rosemary sprigs
2 cups chicken stock
1 lb. assorted mushrooms, quartered or thickly sliced, sautéed in butter and/or olive oil
2-3 TB grated Parmesan Reggiano
1 lb. Tagliatelle or Pappardelle
1. Preheat oven to 325°
2. Score the outer skin and fat of the duck in a crosshatch pattern
3. Season both sides of the duck with salt and pepper
4. Heat the oil in an ovenproof saucepan or heavy braising pot over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the duck pieces, skin side down, and cook, turning as needed, for about 8 minutes, or until golden brown on both sides. Remove most of the fat from the pan.
5. Add the carrot, onion, celery and garlic to the pan and sauté until lightly browned. Add the wine and deglaze, scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen the fond. Simmer for two or three minutes to reduce slightly.
6. Add the tomatoes, stock and rosemary to the pan and stir to combine. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add the duck pieces in one layer. Cover the pot, place it in the oven and roast for 1½ to 2 hours, until the duck meat is tender. Remove from oven, uncover and let the duck cool slightly in the braising liquid. Remove duck from liquid and set aside.
7. Skim excess fat off the surface of the liquid. Remove rosemary stems. Using an immersion blender, puree the vegetables in the liquid. The mixture should be the consistency of tomato sauce. If it’s too thin, simmer it until it reduces and thickens slightly.
8. Remove the skin and excess fat from the duck. Shred the duck meat. Return the meat to the sauce.
9. Add the sautéed mushrooms to the sauce and stir to combine. Simmer gently for 5 minutes.
10. Prepare tagliatelle as directed on the package. When pasta is ready, drain, reserving about 1 cup of the water. Add the pasta to the ragu and toss until well combined. Sprinkle with parmesan. If the ragu is too thick, add a little of the pasta water. Season with salt and pepper, if necessary.
I like to sear them and then stick them in a low oven (250 or so) and bring them up just to above rare. You have lots of control that way. I'm not a big fan of syrupy sweet toppings (your ragu sounds amazing!) but I might slice up some fresh apples and roast them along with the duck.
Don't forget to save the fat that renders from those breasts. I keep it in the freezer. I'm amazed at how many dishes, from hash browns to grass-fed meatloaf, are improved with the addition of a tiny bit of duck fat.
Happy cooking and please report back!
I actually had a question about the rendered duck fat while I was pan searing the breasts. Before searing, I seasoned the breasts on both sides with salt and pepper. Does this seasoning have any effect on the rendered fat, or make it less-than-desirable in any way?
Also, what would be the optimal internal temperature to have them "just above rare"?
Duck breast is one of my favourite things - EVER. My favourite preparations usually include a Port/Sherry/Brandy/Wine sauce, maybe with a stick of cinnamon. I also like to serve with glazes (Calvados maple) or gastrique (i.e. blueberry or Saskatoon). Another involves a white wine sauce with morels.
This one is delicious - you'll love it! Duck Breasts in Pink Peppercorn Sauce (it has pears, pear brandy, red wine, etc.). Wait a minute - it won't post for some dumb reason. Anyway, just go to Foodista.com and look under above title.
EDIT - got it to work. http://www.foodista.com/recipe/TQGXK4...
Seared as already described is the most common application.
Seared and then finished in a salt crust as per André Daguin, who first invented the magret.
Skinned and cooked sous-vide in duck fat and butter before a flash sear and service with duck skin cracklings.
Slow roast in five-spice (this fully cooks the breast so you better know what you're doing).
Tacos (in hindsight, this was a just little wrong).