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Jan 11, 2011 01:42 PM

Two days between Beaune and Cosne sur Loire

We have two days to book between our stay at La Ruchutte near Beaune and our next stop in Cosne. I have written Moulin Renaudoits, but they are closed until early spring.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for an auberge or interesting country hotel where we could hole up for two nights and enjoy interesting food and perhaps company? Something more intimate and less expensive than L'Esperance.

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  1. La Ferme des Perriaux, actually quite near chez Soup, is a nice ferme-auberge-b&b. I think the same family also runs the wonderful Auberge de la Gare in St Fargeau. Nothing sophisticated. You know ferme-auberges. Just extremely fresh food.

    Another nice ferme-auberge is Le Vieux Chateau in Oulon, near Prémery, which is more or less between Beaune and Cosne.
    It has a very nice b&b suite. 03 8668 1829. Mme Fayolle
    Don't confuse this with the quite basic b&b across the courtyard managed by Mme Fayolle's daughter.
    It also has good food, but food-wise I like Ferme de la Gare in St Fargeau best.
    Don't forget to say coucou to Soup.

    3 Replies
    1. re: Parigi

      Thanks, Parigi. The area around St. Fargeau is one of our old stomping grounds, and we agree that the Gilets are special hosts. The area around Oulon/Prémery would be new for us. I'll give it a look-see.

      I was unclear in my request. We really don't want to stay 'between' Beaune and Cosne, but rather on a triangular trajectory, i.e., about a 3 hour drive from either. Since we'll be spending three days in Cosne, I'm hoping for a place that is farther south. I'd planned on Roanne, but find that our target restaurant is closed during our projected stay.

      1. re: mangeur

        Boy, you know your Burgundy!
        You must know la Charité sur Loire then.
        South. Would Cluny be too south? There is an enchanting drive among vines from Beaune (more or less from La Ruchotte) all the way down.

        1. re: Parigi

          If Charolles is not too far, we had a fantastic meal in December at Frederic Doucet at the Hotel de la Poste... I think it may have been the best meal of my life in fact. Had some kind of degustation menu which was around 60 euros. Seems to change often. Mine was St. jacques two ways, then a bar dish, and then St. Pierre with a surprising mixture of pinapple and potiron,.then a filet charollais in bordelaise, a huge cheese cart, terrific desserts and mignardises. The amuses were quite good too. We were snowed in and spent the night as well and found it to be very comfortable.

    2. Roughly ½ way between Beaune and Cosne is Avallon, a picturesque town on its own, with the Moulin des Ruats just south of there in a lovely setting spanning a trout stream. The rooms are rather plain but the common areas and grounds are very nice and the owner/chef has the nicest gourmet restaurant in the area. We enjoyed a 2 night stay there between Auxerre and Autun.

      1. Thanks, Gman and Laidback. Both of these names are going into the hat. At the moment, I'm leaning toward stretching a little more south and staying in new-to-us Vichy. The 'Jardins des Thevenets' looks like a pleasant sleepover with decent table d'hote.

        But this matter is by no means decided....

        3 Replies
        1. re: mangeur

          We also landed in Vichy for the first time this Decembre. Was a bit of a blur. Couldn't find a decent place to eat and settled somewhere that turned out very dull. Nice enough hotel, but overall, the city struck us as quite provincial and, in all the worst senses, bourgeois. Slightly stuffy. Was there so briefly..... And only because we bailed on Clermont-Ferrand after looking at all the exteriors of the most highly rated hotels. Very down-market.. And after abandoning a gite where the plumbing had gone VERY wrong, we craved a bit of pampering. Report if you find good grub. So hard with chowhound and about 90% of France. If it's not a major city, or gastronomic destination, it seems we're on our own. For this reason I will post about all our adventures in the hinterlands. Started gathering receipts and notes today. Bon voyage.

          1. re: Gman

            "I will post about all our adventures in the hinterlands. Started gathering receipts and notes today."

            Oh, yes! Please do. This is a database that we need to expand. I will try to do my part.

            1. re: Gman

              From my search, Vichy may serve up decent food at L'Alembic and at La Table de Marlene, both recent Michelin bib Gourmands. Looking at their internet menus, I can't say that I'm overly impressed, but that can be deceiving.