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Masa review (is it worth it?)

Masa does not allow photos, so there are no pics. The complete review, with more about the full experience, is available on the blog: http://ramblingsandgamblings.blogspot...

This meal was early in December, and full of fall flavors. We had 6-7 small courses, then sushi, and a light dessert.

HOKKAIDO HAIRY CRAB WITH SEAWEED AND CUCUMBER
Our first course was exactly what a starter/amuse should be. Sweet and tart, very refreshing, and definitely whets the appetite.

TORO TARTARE WITH CAVIAR AND TOAST
Not very original, but the California caviar was extremely tasty for American caviar. The tartare, however, I found bland. I'm sure the chopped up toro was of a high quality, but it was almost as if nothing was done to it. I wouldn't have called it tartare, although my guess is it merely served to provide fattiness and texture to carry the caviar.

FUGU-SASHIMI, INTESTINES, SKIN, AND LIVER WITH SLAW, WATER PEPPER, AND GOLD LEAF
Although I'm personally not a big fan of raw fugu flesh, this was a well composed dish with good textures. The liver had a good taste to it. The blowfish is of the non-poisonous variety, which is becoming increasingly popular, although it does take away from what makes fugu exotic.

FUGU-FRIED
I much prefer fried fugu flesh and enjoyed this very much.

SEA URCHIN RISOTTO WITH WHITE TRUFFLES
One of his signature dishes, this smelled amazing as it was brought to the table. That being said, I wasn't a big fan of the risotto and I thought the uni flavor was muted. My friend who does not eat sea urchin got a mushroom risotto instead made with three types of mushrooms, and I think I would have enjoyed that much more.

AUSTRALIAN WAGYU WITH WHITE TRUFFLES
This was a supplemented dish, at $120 per person. Of course this tasted and smelled wonderful, but it's not like the chef really did anything to the ingredients.

SHABU SHABU WITH WILD YELLOWTAIL
A wonderful fragrant broth in which we quickly dipped our three slices of wild yellowtail. The fish was delicious and tasted great warmed up in the broth. After we were done with the fish, they removed the heat and we drank the broth, which now had added sweetness from the fish.

SUSHI
The seafood was definitely of a very high quality, and most of it was flown in from Japan. The pieces were small, and while the rice tasted fine, I thought the grain size was too big for how small the sushi pieces were. While it all tasted good, I didn't find many of the pieces to be significantly superior to sushi at the other top places in NYC. The only one that was truly special was when they shaved white truffle onto the cutting board and rolled the sushi rice in it to create an amazing rice ball.

Overall it was a fantastic meal from start to finish. The flavors definitely fit the fall profile, brightened up on occasion by some lemon, lime, or yuzu. The thing that in my opinion truly separated the chef from other top sushi meals I've had was the progression. I thought the progression of tastes, textures, temperatures, and smells from one course or piece to the next was very well thought out.

For those of us who care about getting value for money, I wouldn't recommend going to Masa over two or more meals at other top sushi places in NYC such as 15 East or Yasuda. Sure, the cooked shrimp especially flown in from Japan was delicious, but was it significantly better than the cooked shrimp Yasuda gets from Mexico? I didn't think it was. Or if you're in the mood for wagyu, I'm sure places like Megu have comparable quality beef as well. There is a genius in his combination of flavor profiles and progression throughout the meal, but I don't think for most of us it's worth more than one visit.

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15 East
15 East 15th Street, New York, NY 10003

Megu
62 Thomas Street, New York, NY 10013

Masa
10 Columbus Cir, New York, NY 10019

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  1. Thank you for a well-written report.

    Please let your generous friend, DC, know that I have several openings in my calendar during the next few weeks...

    1. Nice report.
      I really want to try Masa, but it just seems to be way overpriced. I have paid $450 a person for a room service kaiseki meal at an onsen in Japan, but that included drinks, a hotel room and a spa with the meal!

      His food seems to be highly refined versions of typical Japanese dishes with very expensive ingredients. White truffle onigiri? Sounds good.

      Hey, I spend two hours with my lawyer it costs me $1000 and I dont get fed. Perhaps that is how one should look at it.

      -----
      Masa
      10 Columbus Cir, New York, NY 10019

      2 Replies
      1. re: AdamD

        I was thinking exactly the same! Was in Japan this past summer and had several of the best kaiseki / omakase meals in town for less than Masa's prices. Masa is very good (been there twice for business events when someone else paid), but not proportionately to their prices. When I spend my own money, I would choose Yasuda.

        1. re: AdamD

          "His food seems to be highly refined versions of typical Japanese dishes with very expensive ingredients."

          That's exactly what I thought beforehand and I felt that my visit confirmed it. I wouldn't say that his dishes were original, but execution does count. Very expensive ingredients tend to be the most flavorful ones, so there's a lot to be said for how he keeps everything in balance.

          On the value side however, paying for ingredients is often the hardest to justify because we all know that restaurants make money solely on ingredient markups.

        2. Great review, Fooder! Do you remember what kinds of neta you had during the sushi course?

          2 Replies
          1. re: michelleats

            They offered to email us a list of everything that was served, but by the end of the meal we'd forgotten to leave our emails with them.

            Just from memory, I remember:
            Otoro x2
            Shima Aji
            Kinmedai
            Some type of mackerel
            Santa Barbara uni gunkan maki
            Negitoro mini hand roll
            Needlefish
            Squid
            Octopus with a drop of white truffle sauce
            Anago
            White truffle
            Cooked shrimp from Japan

            There were more but that's all I remember. Besides the use of white truffle, most of these pieces can be found at the other sushi places I've mentioned, so I did not bother to include them in the writeup.

            1. re: fooder

              Thanks, fooder. Good information.

          2. I will almost definitely never go to Masa, so I really appreciate your report, which shows me both what I'm missing and what I'm not missing.

            1. Masa still does not allow photos, so there are no pics. The complete review, with more about the full experience, is available on the blog: http://ramblingsandgamblings.blogspot...

              One year later, some things have changed, most things haven't.

              If you've decided that you're going to go to Masa and spend the money, you might as well go for white truffle season. The basic set omakase is still $450, but there are a couple of white truffle supplements available.

              The dinner began as usual with a progression of small courses. When I say "as usual", the dinner really is almost an exact replica of my meal there last year.

              EEL CUCUMBER WITH SUNOMONO
              Eel and cucumber is a terrific combination, and the vinegary tartness of the sunomono made for a bright and refreshing first course.

              TORO TARTARE WITH CAVIAR AND TOAST
              Similar to my meal last year, I found the toro to be nice and rich, but nothing was really done to it. The flavor of the dish came from the terrific caviar, of which there was a huge mound on top of the toro. The texture combination of all the components was stellar.

              FUGU SASHIMI INCLUDING LIVER, SKIN, AND INTESTINES
              A good combination of textures with fresh raw fugu. Fugu is one of those fish like fluke that chefs seem to love but I personally don't get. Especially as the blowfish they use is of the non-poisonous variety, taking away from what makes fugu exotic.

              FUGU KARAAGE
              The fugu flesh, when cooked, has an interesting tender texture with a little bit of give. The fry job was perfect and we enjoyed this very much. We were encouraged to use our hands and really get at the flavor in the bones.

              LANGOUSTINE
              The langoustine was simply done with a splash of citrus. It arrived at a perfect, just-cooked temperature, with a wonderful aroma. Again they encouraged us to use our hands, and I really went at getting all the little pieces of meat out of all the claws and legs.

              MUSHROOM RISOTTO
              Those of us who could not eat langoustine were served a wonderfully aromatic mushroom risotto featuring three kinds of mushrooms, including matsutake and maitake mushrooms, and a little shaving of white truffle.

              WAGYU WITH WHITE TRUFFLE
              This was a supplement that cost $150 per dish compared with $120 when we went last year. We ordered two for the four of us. However, I enjoyed this dish much better this year, as I felt the beef was seasoned a bit more and had a better sear, which both brought out the flavor of the beef, and melded better with the truffle shavings.

              KUE AND FOIE GRAS NABE
              The usual hot pot presentation featuring a deep, fragrant broth. We each received two generously-sized slices each of foie gras and kue, an extremely expensive fish also known as kelp bass. The kue had a fresh taste and wonderful texture, with the fattiness encased in the flesh. The foie gras was rich and flavorful, yet in a mild and gentle manner. A perfect example of the harmonized nature of his cuisine.

              The sushi courses were served two pieces at a time on a beautiful black rectangular block that they had to carry over from the bar for every course. It was specifically designed to span the two tables of our four-top, while the other two-tops had shorter versions.

              SUSHI
              SHIMA AJI striped jack
              TAI sea bream
              TORO tuna
              HIRAME fluke
              KINMEDAI golden eye snapper
              IKA squid
              AMAEBI sweet shrimp
              AOYAGI orange clam
              HOTATEGAI scallop
              SUJI grilled toro sinew
              AJI horse mackerel
              KURUMA EBI cooked tiger prawn
              ANAGO sea water eel
              UNAGI fresh water eel
              UNI Santa Barbara sea urchin
              WHITE TRUFFLE sushi rice rolled in white truffle shavings
              NEGI TORO toro and scallions
              UME SHISO

              For my friends who couldn't eat some of the pieces, replacement pieces were served.

              MAITAKE mushroom
              MATSUTAKE mushroom
              AKAMI lean tuna

              This list was the list provided to me by email a week after the meal. I am not exactly sure that those were indeed all the individual pieces we had, but the list seems to be on point for the most part.

              Dessert was a light, sweet melon which I didn't eat any of.

              At this point, our server came to us to tell us that the chef had white truffle ice cream, at a supplement of $95 each. We ordered three servings (one scoop apiece). The ice cream was tremendously flavorful, with a just-right texture in between hard and soft. This was the "wow" ending that a meal like this needs.

              Overall, the sushi was fresh, and I actually thought the rice was better than on our last visit. The quality of the ingredients and flavors are not really up for debate here. The only question is one of value, which was the sole reason for the New York Times downgrade to three stars. To that end, I think it depends what you think you are paying for. The food is top notch, and full of expensive ingredients that command high premiums. But I also believe that people, especially in New York, pay to have such a meal in this private, serene setting. If you need this privacy in addition to enjoying a top quality meal, then it is worth it by all means. For me, I don't feel that I need all these expensive ingredients crammed into just one meal, and would prefer some more new dishes in the menu at these prices.

              -----
              Masa
              10 Columbus Cir, New York, NY 10019

              12 Replies
              1. re: fooder

                >> The only question is one of value, which was the sole reason for the New York Times downgrade to three stars. <<

                When I read Sifton's review I was under the impression he downgraded them because of service and ambiance issues, no? Like making him wait outside until his other guests arrive ...

                Wife and I are trying to dine at all the Michelin 3* and Forbes 5* restaurants in the USA and have all the Michelin's except Masa (and now the new one in Brooklyn) ... every time we go to NYC I think about going to Masa, just to complete the list, but I just can't justify the exceptionally high price. Is it really worth TWO (or three, with these supplements) trips to Per Se? Or 3 or 4 visits to Alinea? I doubt it ...

                -----
                Per Se
                10 Columbus Circle, New York, NY 10019

                Masa
                10 Columbus Cir, New York, NY 10019

                1. re: willyum

                  Well, the visit last year was indeed to finish up my friend's Michelin 3* list. It's hard to make value comparisons across cuisines, in my view, especially when Asian cuisines are so different.

                  In the end, for me the discussion of value comes down to ingredients. Even if you are going to Per Se, or Alinea, there are quality ingredients for sure, but not every dish is full of premium delicacies. At Masa, practically every dish is seafood directly imported from Japan, or wagyu beef, or truffles, or foie gras, etc. It's just that most of us don't need all of those expensive delicacies crammed into one meal. But if that's your thing, I think Masa is fine.

                  1. re: willyum

                    WOW Masa is really $700 to 1000 per person? That IS ridiculous. The most expensive meal I think I have had was at the French Laundry at a mere $450 per person, or I just recently dined at Chevre D'or in Eze for about the same. But both of those were amazing and worth it. I have had incredible Kaiseki in Kyoto, Japan at about $350. The place in Bklyn , Brooklyn Fare has no tables, no exquisite service, good food but not on a 3 Michelin Star level. His dishes are Japanese oriented and I have had equal versions in "no star" restaurants. 3 Michelin stars for a place with no tablecloths, or tables is absurd

                    -----
                    Masa
                    10 Columbus Cir, New York, NY 10019

                  2. re: fooder

                    $95 for 1 scoop of ice cream? i don't care if it had diamonds in it...that is comical.

                    1. re: fooder

                      Would it be indiscreet to ask how much the tab came to? It must have been about $1000 a person after tax and tip.

                      1. re: fooder

                        fooder, do you know if they're still charging the mandatory 20% non-gratuity fee?

                        1. re: PorkyBelly

                          Can't help you. No idea.
                          Went to Masa the last two years around this time of year but not this year. May be going to Brooklyn Fare as a consolation.

                          1. re: fooder

                            I would recommend 15 East. Sit at the sushi bar and let them do their magic. I had an outstanding meal there. Not exactly Masa, but almost as good, and certainly a much more relaxed and animated experience. Price compared to Masa cant be beat, and food quality was outstanding.

                            1. re: fooder

                              Did you ever find out whether there is the mandatory 20% non-gratuity fee? I find just the notion of it very interesting. I was being treated by a very generous friend on both occasions that I went to Masa, so I have no idea.

                              This year I didn't go to Masa, and spent my own dime on Brooklyn Fare. The review is here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/884450

                              1. re: fooder

                                Not yet. I thought I read somewhere that it's still mandatory but it's now considered the tip. Can anybody else confirm?

                                I'll be dining there at the end of the month and will report back.

                                1. re: fooder

                                  I can confirm there is no longer a mandatory 20% non-gratuity fee or a mandatory 20% gratuity for that matter.

                                  The bill just suggests that you tip between 18 and 20%.

                          2. Like many chowhounders, I don't really think too much about money when it comes to quality food. However, although Masa's menu was really extravagant, I didn't think it' was really worth some $700 to 1,000 per person. I can always fly to japan any time and have authentic Japanese food of similar quality at half the cost. I understand there should be some mark up for truly good Japanese cuisine in New York given the geographic distance to Japan, but the mark up at Masa is way way too much IMO.

                            2 Replies
                            1. re: kosmose7

                              Fresh white truffle onigri? Foie gras shabu shabu? Wagyu with truffles?
                              Extensive use of caviar, toro and truffles in Japan would cost a lot more me thinks. It is exclusive. It is high priced real estate. There are people that will pay if the food is up to par.

                              What bothers me is that Masa seems to be moving towards fusion dishes rather than expertly prepared Japanese dishes.

                              In Japan I have paid
                              $300 per person for a fugu set meal including sake, tax and tip.
                              $450 a person for a top notch onsen on the Izu penisula including room, spa, drinks and food served in room by two servers (wasabi soft cream extra).
                              $375 a person, not including drinks, for top grade Japanese wagyu teppanyaki
                              $400 a person for Kyoto kaiseki including drinks

                              There is nothing I have heard about Masa that would make me want to pay his fees.
                              I obviously dont mind paying, but I want something I cant get elsewhere. There is nothing he is serving that would make me indulge and pay his fees.

                              -----
                              Masa
                              10 Columbus Cir, New York, NY 10019

                              1. re: AdamD

                                That is my point. As a person living in New York, I don't see why I should pay $700 to 1,000 for truffle and caviar. I can go somewhere else in the city to have them at much lower price.

                                Those who appreciate the fusion cuisine of Masa at that price, let them enjoy it. But not me. I could have authentic Japanese fugu, kuroge beef from Matsuzaka, fresh nama (not frozen and then thawed) otoro steak from Ouma, kegani crab from Hokkaido, or kyorouri and kaiseki at half the price of Masa (between $300 to $500 in most cases) in Japan or Korea.

                                 
                                 
                                 
                                 
                                 
                                 
                                 
                                 
                                 
                                 
                            2. foodr
                              thanks for the good report. I think the sequence of food served, and the thought-out mixture of flavors that compliment each other is extremely important and so many sushi and "tasting" menu restaurants lack the ability to do it right.

                              1 Reply
                              1. re: foodwhisperer

                                I have eaten ate Masa three times, and while the quality of the food is never up for debate, the overall experience has diminished. The last time I went, I felt like the chefs were bored,and just going through the motions. For close to $1500 for the two of us including sake, etc, I just expect better. Likely won't be going back when there are so many other options available.

                                -----
                                Masa
                                10 Columbus Cir, New York, NY 10019

                                1. re: TheDescendedLefticleOfAramis

                                  I was a guest of a well known chef for a meal at the bar at Masa. He was known there. We had mediocre food. The fried oysters were so fried that they formed a hollow in the center. Poor oysters were completely blown apart! I can't imagine what the bill was and I knew I would never step foot in there again.

                                  1. re: chervil9

                                    - Was it an off-night? possibly a Monday? Was the head chef out?
                                    - Are you referring to counter seating at Masa, or Bar Masa which is a separate restaurant? (Just making sure that's all.)

                                    1. re: calf

                                      It was Bar Masa actually. But the prices were still astronomical, I felt so bad when he paid the check.

                                      1. re: chervil9

                                        I once ate at Bar Masa a long time ago. It was mediocre. Neighborhood sushi restaurant quality. But, it was priced about double what a good neighborhood restaurant would charge. A total ripoff.

                                    2. re: chervil9

                                      To get a "full" sense, you need to go back ... way back ...
                                      all the way to rodeo drive

                                      1. re: TheDescendedLefticleOfAramis

                                        Sorry to go 'off-board', but does anyone prefer Masa to Urasawa? Of all the people I know who've done both, I don't know any who prefer the former..

                                        However, I recall some saying that the sushi at Masa is a slither better... any other verdicts here?

                                  2. I dined at Masa solo recently. Spent over $1,000. Was it worth it? Yes, I'd say so. A top-ten lifetime meal. I can't identify a single flaw in the food, which was as extravagant as I've ever had. Masa would certainly compete for and most likely obtain three Michelin stars stars in Tokyo. There were some minor service hiccups but they were insubstantial in the scheme of things.

                                    The beef was ridiculously good, in my opinion.

                                    Would I go back? Not any time soon. That's the thing about spending over $1,000 for a meal. I'm not going to go back and spend over $1,000 to get largely the same thing.

                                    For comparison, I enjoyed a $300 meal at Sushi Saito in Tokyo more. And I considered my $500ish meals at Urasawa in Los Angeles on par with the $1,000 meal at Masa.

                                    1 Reply
                                    1. re: aventinus

                                      How did you spend $1k there?
                                      If I remember correctly, the base is either $450 or $550 depending on the season, wagyu supplement was $120, truffle ice cream supplement was $95. Their wine list was mostly whites and champagnes if I recall.

                                      I (OP) am pretty much in agreement with you. It's worth it for the one meal which was excellent. But the value drops off considerably for repeat visits, so when I look back in retrospect, it's easy for me to think that I'd get more enjoyment spending the same amount on multiple meals around town.