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Dec 27, 2010 01:56 PM

Oaxaca - Itanoni, a celebration of corn

My friend just returned from a trip to Oaxaca and sent me the message below, which I've attempted to translate from the original Spanish about Itanoni, an inexpensive restaurant that celebrates corn, different organic varieties of corn in an assortment of dishes that are very Oaxacan. My glosses are in the parentheses.

The restaurant's website (in Spanish) is They are located at Belesario Domínguez 513 in the Colonia Reforma (neighborhood), Open 7 am to 4pm, Monday through Saturday, and 8 am to 2 pm on Sundays. Phone 513-9223

The name of the restaurant means the "Flower of the Corn". They offer dishes based on organic varieties of corn. The corn is almost white, very pure and delicious. i ate a cheese and chicken quesadilla with chile de agua, and then a memela (like a sope but unlike the ones I've eaten here in the SF Bay Area, there the masa is cooked on the griddle, so the texture is crisp and the flavor of the corn more developed). I also had coffee and a flan, which were delicious. The coffee is served in an shallow earthenware plate, the sort that you'd use for a broth or a soup. The restaurant is very simple, they have transformed the front part of their home into the restaurant. The restaurant, although simple, is well known. They also have excellent tamales, and what they call "tetelas" which are triangles of folded tortillas filled with one's choice of various things including chicarrón with red salsa, mushrooms with onion and garlic, cheese and chiles de agua and so on. (Tetelas are akin to samosas, usually filled with mashed beans and other goodies; the tetelas are cooked dry on the comal, so you get the texture contrasts between the tortilla and the fillings


Belisario Domínguez 513, Oaxaca, OAX , MX

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  1. Itanoni is indeed, very, very good for the tradtional Mexican corn kitchen. The masa is ethereal, due largely to the fact that they're using locally grown corn that is nixtamalized, then ground and kneaded into masa. When I was there they had a person on premises kneading masa for the cook to use. The resulting finished product is delicious.

    The tetelas are phenomenal, they were our favorite thing. We did the chicarron and mushroom too, both of which are indescribilbly good. I think I have some photos of them. I am currently not at home, but will be later tonight. I'll look for my photos of Itanoni and see if I can post them. The memelas are good too, but the tetelas are truly special.

    Itanoni is *not* close to the the zocalo and most of the more heavily touristed areas. If someone is in that area they will have to take a taxi and not all taxistas do know where Itanoni is. We knew it was on Belesario Dominguez so our taxista just kept driving till we found it. I did happen to be with a friend who is fluent and our taxista was pretty clear he didn't know where it was. But even if you have to take a taxi it's definitely worth seeking out.

    Belisario Domínguez 513, Oaxaca, OAX , MX

    2 Replies
    1. re: DiningDiva

      It's within walking distance of the bus station.

      1. re: Earl Grey

        1st class bus station yes it is. If one liked walking they could probably hoof it up from the zocalo as well, but it's still a schlepp

    2. absolutely one of our favorites! Their tascalate drink is amazing as well. Our daughter says it's her favorite restaurant in the world!

      1. It is really delicious. They've great breakfast, too. Has anyone tried their pozole? My one complaint is their coffee, it has always been fairly weak and bland when I've gone. But with such great food and delicious fruit waters(mint and lime!), it hardly matters. If you tell a taxi driver colonia reforma, Belisario Dominguez close to it's intersection with calle Amapolas.