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Dec 16, 2010 07:20 AM


after trudging through the cold to hearth, which was closed for a private party, my bf and i decided it was time to give apizz a try. we both wished we'd gone to casa mono instead. nothing was bad, but nothing was any better than what I, an ambitious but not very experienced cook, could have whipped up in my tiny studio apartment kitchen.

we started with an octopus salad. it was filled with chunks of, i think, potato, and pieces of celery so uneven a first day cooking school student could have done better. the dressing was strangely sweet. the whole thing reminded me of a salad i'd make on a night when i was hungry but too lazy to go to the store. often i chunk up anything i find in the fridge and mix up a dressing with whatever i grab from the cupboard. it is hard to believe a chef thought it up.

we shared a steak and veal ragu. the steak was tasty, but a smidge thin and so tough it made me wonder if the kitchen was saving money by buying way less than prime meat.

as i was eating, i couldn't but help thinking this was what a friend would cook for me. it wasn't bad, but my friends aren't chefs and i'd certainly not pay them $160 for what they can whip up.

as we were finishing, at almost the same time, my bf and i looked at each other and said, "this reminds me of diner food" enough said.

on the positive side, the cocktails were delicious.

217 Eldridge St., New York, NY 10002

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  1. I haven't been terribly thrilled with Apizz, myself - and I'm quite fond of their sister restaurant, The Orchard, so it was a bit of a surprise to be so let down. The apps I've always found good, and generously portioned, but the secondi & pastas all pretty one-note. More than once I've found that it seems everyone's entree had the exact same sauce on it. Last time I was in I had the Wild Boar Lasagna - and honestly, it was so overpowered by the sauce it could have been any meat in there.

    While it's a step up from your average Little Italy red-sauce joint, I've never felt it really reached the heights of The Orchard - or Peasant, which I believe has the same co-owner - nearby.

    That said, it's a lovely room, and it's a fine place to pop in for a light meal of apps and a few glasses of wine.

    217 Eldridge St., New York, NY 10002