Sushi in a nutshell: the 5 things you look for in a quality sushi bar
- tatamagouche Nov 18, 2010 07:51 AM
Sushi's been covered ad nauseam on the boards, but it often leads to extremely erudite (albeit fascinating) digressions, so I wanted to bring it back to the basics.
It doesn't have to be 5—just the key things, simply put. What should the rice be like? What should the fish be like? Is there a particular type of fish that serves as a litmus test for you, and if so, how so?
First and foremost and I do not mean this in any way to be discrimanatory. if there aren't Asian customers dining, it probably isn't very good. Second, the rice has to be sticky, but not mushy. Third, I want to see the colors of the sushi, especially tuna jump out at me. I realize this can actually be obtained in some sketchy ways, but if I see those bright colors, I'm gonna give them the benefit of the doubt. Fourth, I don't want to be rushed. Usually, in the course of the meal it's relatively smaller than usual American fare, so the time between dishes is imperative. Finally, and this is only a personal item. I went into a place and explained that I had tried certain things and asked what other things I might like and the chef was very accomadating. Now I'm not saying I expect thjis ever again, but he handed me a plate, with three differnt pieces of sashmi and told me to try the. I ended up ordered three sushi rolls that contained the items.
"irst and foremost and I do not mean this in any way to be discrimanatory. if there aren't Asian customers dining, it probably isn't very good."
it isn't discriminatory - it just doesnt make any sense. unless ALL asians (w/out going into how meaningless the word asian is in this context, when what you probably mean is japanese) are expert in sushi, and no non-asians are.
i assure you, at least in any city w/ a sizable "asian" population, there are asians eating in mediocre places. In any popular place with limited seating, in a country where "asians" are a small % of the population, that no "asians" will be there sometime.
If you've ever been to Chinatown in NY or SF, the places that are touristy are packed with Americans who do not know anything about Chinese food. If you find the little hole in the wall where everyone is Chinese, chances are it's quality. I said Asian, because many places now are fusion restaurants that serve Japanese and Chinese (and sometimes Korean dishes) thus in that context they are Asian not Japanese, so I pretty much meant Asian. If you were in France would you not ask someone who was French where to eat?
i live in NYC. i know plenty of chinese americans who eat crap chinese food. I think pretty much every restaurant in chinatown i've ever been to has chinese people in it. even the crappy tourist ones.
fusion restaurants have notoriously bad sushi overall, so your whole asian spiel falls flat. It also argues against your point - why would a vietnamese or burmese person know sushi better than an american? because they have physical features that resemble japanese in your eyes? If any Asian person can know sushi, regardless of country of origin, then any person from anyplace can know good sushi equally well. mongolians and tibetans have as much chance of knowing sushi an tony the 6th generation italian american
There are plenty of mediocre restaurants in france - guess what? they are full of french people. if i was in france i wanted good vietnamese food, or good north african food, i would also ask someone who was french. WHen i want good chinese food in chinatown i usually ask someone who knows the neighborhood and the restaurants. I have had more than a few friends who lived in and around chinatown who were not chinese, don;t you think they might know the restaurants better than some random "asian" from secaucus?
for that matter people ask me, a life-long NYC jewish boy, where to get good chinese, japanese, and vietnamese food. is that because i'm asian or because i know food in NYC? hint: i'm not asian, nor of asian descent.
finally - there are plenty of "americans" of asian descent.
Let's see if I can come up with 5 key things....
I'd say the most important thing is the freshness and quality of the fish, which I guess is kinda obvious. I'm not a lover of 'regular' tuna, as I find even the freshest tastes about as interesting as licking a window pane, but o toro or any kind of fatty tuna is a good litmus test. Some people pass off tuna belly that is stringy, with the silver membranes in there, which is bad.
Uni would be another good benchmark - is it fresh, sweet, creamy?
I've had the best rice at Yasuda -- light, slightly acidic, holding together well, and not a freaking golfball-size amount, either.
The care with which the fish is sliced. The attentiveness or interest of the sushi chef in my personal preferences, and the eagerness to introduce me to new things.
Lastly, I don't like to be rushed. I've experienced all these at Sushi Yasuda in NYC, and it has become my benchmark for a quality sushi bar.
Hey - I think that made it 5!
Nice job, you two.
These may sound like dumb questions, but here goes:
People always talk about the importance of the slicing technique. But I'm not sure exactly what we're talking about. I get that it shouldn't be giant slabs, but beyond that, what do people look for? Are we talking particular dimensions? Is there conversely such a thing as too thin? Should the fish be cut in a certain way (horizontal, vertical)?
Same goes for the rice: your comment suggests there's a preferred dimension?
And: what about fish selection? Are there items that should always be on the menu? What do you look for in specials? Does their place of origin matter to you?
I would highly recommend anyone who has the time and interest, to watch the 1995(?) era Japanese TV soap "Shota No Sushi", based on a comic book series and made into television, the story of young Shota Sekiguchi who worked his way to the top. You can watch the whole series, English subtitled, although rather grainy at
Ignore the pseudo comedy and at times not so great acting, but you end up learning a lot about sushi (nigiri sushi) and things normally not discussed anywhere else. Of course some things are exaggerated, but a lot of the information you can get from the series is quite invaluable.
#1: Tuna. Tuna is the most expensive product a sushi bar has to buy. You can usually find out 90% of what you need to know by finding our what kind of tuna they sell.
#2: Freshness of fish. Go right to fish like yellowtail and snapper that have bloodlines and red stripes, and make sure they're red. If they have a brownish tint or are mysteriously cut away, order a cucumber roll and take the check.
#3: Types of fish available. Survey the showcase to see what they have. If it's albacore, escolar, shrimp, salmon, and every other fish that is usually kept in a freezer, I leave before sitting down.
#4: House made products: Look a the tamago, shrimp, anago, and anything else that should be made in house. If it's out of a package you're in trouble.
#5: Cleanliness and quality of tools in workstation: I've never seen a good chef who left their workstation in disarray or used junky tools to make sushi.
If all of the above tests are passed I'm reasonably confident that I'm in a place worth spending my money in before I even eat.
Agree 200%, although one can get hosed if a single order of kappa maki does not meet the minimum order, or if there is none, whether a bowl of miso soup or a side of salad is cheaper.
When I think of freshness, it is literally "instantly killed" (e.g. ike jime, live prawns from a tank, or geoduck like at Cantonese seafood restaurants in California from the tank) or handling time is kept to a minimum, and on top of that the seafood item in question is in season, and very good quality. Seasonality also falls under #3.
In the USA, most places if they claim "fresh fish from JPN", is going through a wholesale distributor. X days pass with fish on ice in a styrofoam type chest, add a day to three of processing/arriving at the hub/delivering to the warehouse then to the destination (more if in a landlocked city), which is not going to taste the same freshness wise as a sushi bar in Taipei ordering from JPN and getting it delivered within 5 hours of the flight, or chefs driving 40+ mins to NE Taipei county to the port of Keelung and have instant access to fresh swordfish, salmon, prawns, and a myriad of local seafood cheaper than importing. I've heard horror stories of fish suffering freeze burns or chef not properly defrosting product and serving the fish over warm rice (cough cough) and calling it Edo style.
There are some overrated and popular places that don't meet any of the criteria, yet thrive for other reasons (ego stroking, false sense of exclusiveness, or investing in unique exotic fish to mask weaknesses in other areas).
With the advent of blogs, review and picture sites, it is a lot easier these days to scope out a place online for those minimal criteria, form your own opinion, even before you decide to get near the door.
I happen to dig big slabs of fish draping the pads of rice for nigiri, but that might be me.
I have a few key criteria:
Rice - properly cooked and seasoned. I can let the seasoning slide a little bit, but bad rice is inexcusable.
Fish - goes without saying. When trying a place for the first time, I usually start with namasake, hamachi, and some form of tuna. If all of those are great, then I'll go for uni and saba. If the saba is pristine, then I'm ready to drop some bucks and pig out. If the saba or uni is subpar, then I'll stick to safer options - more tuna, sake, hamachi, unagi, a spicy tuna roll. Saba is one of my big litmus tests. Pristinely fresh mackerel is delectable and smooth, and buttery. Saba one minute past its prime is rubbery and stinky. If the uni or saba is not up to snuff, then, depending on price, it just goes on the heap of other sushi bars around town as "ok."
Another thing I really enjoy is engaging the sushi chef. I have no problem going to cheaper spots if the chef can steer me in the right direction of what their best offerings are for that day. Sometimes, the cheap spots are every bit as good as the fancy spots - if you know what's good that day.
Also, in the real cheap spots around my town, the chefs will cut jagged pieces of fish up, and serve up wierd looking slabs that are rough around the edges. These places are what they are. If they are super cheap, and some of the offerings are good, then somtimes, the value might be there. I'm currently debating the value of an ayce sushi bar. It's 14.95 for lunch. I've gone twice, and each time, at least one of the fishes was a little off, but some were pretty decent. The chefs are obviously instructed to use extra rice for everything, but I've decided, that if you go, and figure out what's good that day, you can load up on that, and be pretty happy for the price.