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Nov 17, 2010 06:10 PM

Best overall food neighboorhood in Paris

We plan on visiting Paris next october/nov and renting an apartment for 10 days. I have been reading many posts but was hoping for some help. Trying to decide which neighborhoods are best all around for food. All food. bakeries, open markets, chocolates, restaurants, market streets, food shops, and stores, etc. I love paris for both food and architecture. The architecture distracts me just long enough to stop thinking about where to eat next. My plan is to walk and eat. Any suggestions and help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

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  1. 1st, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, 17th, 18th, 19th, 20th,

    14 Replies
    1. re: Parigi

      The 12th, really? I guess there are some nice things on the edge, but overall it's a pretty uninspiring place.

      (This is a non-disagreeing disagreement...)

      1. re: tmso

        "12th, really?"
        Place d'Aligre market
        The regional food fair held a few times over the year on Diderot-Daumesnil
        The Picpus cemetery (Lafayette, le voilà)
        The long impasse that feels like the countryside, along Diderot
        The courtyard streets (starting from Bastoche)

        1. re: Parigi

          << Place d'Aligre market >>

          That's the 12th already? I thought the border was bd Diderot, though I probably got that idea despite maps, street signs, etc.

      2. re: Parigi

        Why not the 3rd, our old neighborhood. It has Pain de Sucre and Jacque Genin and we could walk to Montorgeuil and Richard Lenoir. You hurt my feeling.

        1. re: PBSF

          "Jacque Genin and we could walk to Montorgeuil and Richard Lenoir. You hurt my feeling."

          I knew it ! OK just for Génin, and the Banh Mi on rue Volta, I add the 3rd.
          Montorgueil is a too expensive a market, whose food is not better than the others. But indeed it has interesting architecture and is very pleasant.
          Richard Lenoir is in the 11th, no?

          1. re: PBSF

            And the Marché des Enfants Rouges, the only open-air food court in Paris!
            And Colliot, Robert et Louise, le Café des Musées, La Briciola...

          2. re: Parigi

            I would add 2nd and 3rd and even 16th (good markets), but still leave out 8th. That makes 19 out of 20.

            1. re: Ptipois

              I think the point we're trying to make is that except for sitting in the middle of one of the Bois's, food, markets and restos are all over and each of us has our neighby and distant favorites.

                1. re: Ptipois

                  mine too. I was first going to list all 20 arrondissements but got tired of typing numbers.

                  1. re: Parigi

                    I did a spoof of a WSJ article that talked of the "Hot New Quarters" and dealt with every Arr. in turn. All are hot, all are winners.

                    1. re: John Talbott

                      Simply - Paris and its surroundings are one big food neighborhood.

                      1. re: Ptipois

                        Or phrased another way, Paris is a collection of self-sufficient villages, each with its highlights, traditions, maybe ethnicities, but always with quality suppliers in every category.

                        On our last visit, we finally "did" rue de Martyrs, Parigi's turf, and discovered its lip-smacking shops. Combined with nearby rues Rochechouart and Lamartine, the 9th offers great food shopping opportunities.

                        1. re: mangeur

                          Plus, chère Mangeur, in addition to all the food calling your name, you can get discount Repetto pumps at the outlet next to the ND de Lorette church.

          3. Hi everyone,
            Thank you so much for all your responses. Based on your suggestions, after reading various posts, I have been considering a place near the arch and rue poncelet. We stayed near rue cler on a previous visit. I really enjoy walking through the market but would like an area that is a little more lively. I will look in the 3rd as well. Does anyone have any current recommendations for great neighborhood food walking tours? Anything behind the scenes? all help and suggestions are greatly appreciated. thanks again.

            4 Replies
            1. re: als2554

              "Does anyone have any current recommendations for great neighborhood food walking tours? "
              I believe several of our "regulars" do these with tastings and eating too: Meg Zimbeck, Ptipois, Souphie, David Lebovitz, and others like Rosa Jackson (Nice & Paris); and several of the Paris by Mouth collective - Barbra Austin, Patricia Wells (Paris & South), & Wendy Lyn - who have I left off and offended, if so, sorry.

              1. re: als2554

                I agree that Paris is one big food neighborhood. So there might be other things to consider when choosing where to stay.

                I love the 7th, but I am with you when you say it's not that lively. If you want Rue Cler with more action go to Rue Daguerre in the 14th. As with Cler, it's a block long pedestrian street of markets, restaurants, boucheries, and boulangeries. It's at metro Denfert Rochereau not far from Montparnasse in one direction and le Jardin du Luxembourg in the other. If you know those areas at all, then you know there are tons of eateries everywhere you turn.

                Within a few minutes, either by foot, metro, or bus, of Daguerre are three plein air food markets. There is one right near the 14th arr. mairie, one at Edgar Quinet, and then there is the market at Raspail and Rue de Renne where I shop. Not far from the Raspail market is the epicierie at Bon Marche. Frankly I prefer the outdoor markets to either Rue Cler or Rue Daguerre.

                You are in foodie heaven here no matter where you stay.

                1. re: forestqueen56

                  Our current apartment is off rue Daguerre on Gassendi. After years at the bustling 3e, it took awhile to adjust to this much quieter neighborhood. Edgar Quinet and Montrouge (with Desnoyer Boucherie on r. Boulard) markets plus the pedestrian rue Daguerre and Monoprix provide more than enough in terms of food shopping. I am not sure it is any more exciting than rue Cler which has more visitors, better restaurants, shops and more of a cosmopolitan feel because of the various international schools.What we miss most is being in the very central Paris, though the transport from Denfort or Montparnnesse make getting around easy. We haven't been able to get into the scene on rue de le Gaite or Blvd Montparnnesse. I think the original poster is looking more excitement right in the center: the area around Montorgueil/r. Turbigo, Bretagne, Rambuteau or the Marais or St. Germain around rue de Bac/rue des St. Peres, around St Sulpice and Odeon

                  1. re: PBSF

                    Wow! From the third to rue Gassendi, that is a big change. I have been on that street once and it is indeed very quiet. I think it would be like moving from Midtown Manhattan to Forest Hills, Queens where I used to live.

                    I live in Paris half time and I have never lived anywhere but on Blvd Raspail so Quartier Denfert Rochereau is home for me. Not many tourists, mostly locals so you feel almost like you are a Parisian. I do tend to go in the direction of the Seine though whenever I walk, shop, or eat out.

                    If you are going for five stars, you wont find them on Rue Daguerre, but you can find a decent steak or fairly good canard confit and garlic potatoes at Cafe Daguerre. The clientele seem to be mostly French. Some of the servers speak English.

                    Like you, I am not really into Blvd Montparnasse. I ate steak tartar once at La Coupole and can't say that I would do it again. They do have a good selection of cocktails, though.

                    I prefer those little streets off of Blvd Raspail going toward le Jardin du Luxembourg. There are lots of Pudlo rated restaurants back in those areas.

                    Although I think the 7th is quite boring, my choice of quartiers, if my dream were to come true and I had the money to buy, would be the area between Ave de la Bourdonnais and Parc Champs de Mars from the Seine to l'Ecole Militaire. It's definitely not a foodie place, but lovely. At the extreme opposite in style, ambiance, and location, would be right around Butte Chaumont for completely different reasons.

              2. We each have our own personal Paris. Although we have walked it, thigh to thigh, north to south and east to west, my husband's Paris is different from mine.

                Since you have spent some time in Paris, I'd ask you where you have felt the most positive vibes during your stays. As suggested upthread, it really is difficult to pick a losing location.

                Does a particular apartment appeal to you? Do you have equity from previous visits? Do any of your apartment choices offer superior transportation facilities?

                You will probably criss-cross the city during your 10 days, and in the process discover many insolite food venues. We look forward to your sharing these with us!

                6 Replies
                1. re: mangeur

                  Wow. I feel so left out! We will be in Paris in June with our three youngest (19,17,15) and are staying in an apt. in the 8eme! Seems like I landed in the only non-foodie spot. Bummer! So, I guess we need a metro pass and some gorgeous new walking shoes!

                  I have spent time on this board trying to develop a list of possible eateries and confess to being quite overwhelmed. I wonder if I gave you my criteria, if you might not lend me your brain power and experience? So, read on if you desire to help this momma show her kiddos some of Paris even though we are staying in the 8eme!

                  Our family loves to eat! We eat everything! We love to eat where the locales eat---usually follow people to see where they are going, but not in a creepy way! We have had some of our greatest meals in the outwardly looking hole-in wall places. #1 priority is high quality to cost ratio. This could go either expensive or not, but since we are traveling with 5 adult appetites, let us err to the not expensive side--under 20 euro for lunch and 40 for dinner. Prefer casual dining to fussy.
                  Love good food---love adventurous eating---love neighborhood joints.

                  While I can afford to eat wherever I choose, I want our children to see that you don't have to spend a lot to get a lot. Value of a dollar/euro....

                  Please help me out. This Chowhound board has never let me the pressure is on!

                  1. re: mccarty

                    40 euros , assuming each, for dinner is very doable, as long as you are careful. My go to is Chez Denise at Les Halles and a meal for five with way too much food and wine, should be right at that pricepoint, lunch will be no less expensive, however, as same menu.

                    1. re: mccarty

                      You will enjoy Cafe Constant and Les Cocottes (both owned by the same chef). Excellent food, good prices and from a price-value perspective hard to beat in Paris. Both are near the Eiffel Tower.

                      Ambassade D'auverge does fabulous western France cuisine. It's on the heavy side but it's not too expensive and less so at lunch.

                      A good cheap eatery is Cafe Breizh, which specialises in Brettony cooking - lots of buckwheat crepes with myriad of filling options.

                      1. re: Roland Parker

                        Aligot at Ambassade D'Auvergne ymmmm........

                        1. re: wrldtrvl

                          Ambassade d'Auvergne is a good place to know about. I have a weakness for the warm lentil salad and the room temperature pea soup, rather than the rubbery aligot, but to each his own.

                          1. re: Steve

                            The 6th


                            Gerard Mulot

                            Pierre Herme

                            Josephine Chez Dumonet


                            Au Bon St Pourcain

                            A La Reine Astrid

                            Plus a million cafes and shops

                            Pierre Herme
                            72 Rue Bonaparte, Paris, Île-de-France 75006, FR

                            75 Champs-Élysées, Paris, Île-de-France 75008, FR