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Nov 17, 2010 03:29 AM

Recommendations near Montreuil, Paris

Hello All,

My parents are on business, working and staying in Montreuil near Robespierre metro. They're not having much luck finding places to eat in the area. A search of these boards has shown me:
"Rio dos Camaroes, 55 rue Marceau, Montreuil-sous-Bois, métro Robespierre. Cameroonian, excellent reputation. Not been there yet but would gladly cross the périphérique to try."
and Chez Paul on Rue de Charonne.

Can anyone recommend anywhere else? They'd prefer to escape from Robespierre if possible. No more than 20 mins on the metro. They're adventurous in terms of cuisine but would prefer a nice restaurant rather than a hole in the wall and, being in France, would prefer to eat French rather than Cameroonian!



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  1. "Chez Paul on Rue de Charonne"

    Montreuil? There's no there there. Take the metro to civilization instead. The metro comes by every 2, 3 minutes. 5 minutes is already considered slow by impatient Parisians

    12 Replies
    1. re: Parigi

      Yes, they're happy to take the metro. In London it's about 2 mins between stops, does the same apply in Paris? I think they'd prefer to stay on line 9 - so 20 mins/ 10 stops gets them as far as Voltaire. Will they have reached civilisation and good restaurants by then?!

      1. re: gembellina

        O yes. Chez Paul that you mentioned is right near there. The metro runs about 2 minutes in the day time, 3 minutes in the evening, up to 5 minutes around midnight.

        1. re: gembellina

          " In London it's about 2 mins between stops, does the same apply in Paris?"
          Count on 1.5 minutes between stops.

        2. re: Parigi

          Same hood as Chez Paul: Rino 5 minute walk from Ledro Rolin metro. Three of us loved our dinner here in September and booked for an upcoming trip.
          Several courses were, yes, spectacular. .

          1. re: Parigi

            I used to live in Montreuil, now go there at least twice a week, friends and indeed a member of my immediate my family live there. I'll remind them that there's "no there there", and that Montreuil's not a part "civilization". Just in case they didn't know. Or they've forgotten. And could you tell me where "civilization" starts, so I can pass the info' on to them, and they can buy a nice flat there?

            Montreuil is a poor place, and from a culinary point of view, it's not the 7th arrondissement of Paris (but, hey, the neighbours are nicer), and not quite the desert suggested above.

            Maybe you've heard about all those "Caves à manger" that Parisens and expats and bloggers have gotten all excited about? Well the 'Cave est Restaurant' in Montreuil on the rue de Paris opened up long before most of them and is still going strong serving great food and wine.

            There's also the Villa Neuf Trois. Situated near La Noue housing projects, this restaurant, housed in a huge 19th century bourgeoise demeure is like a little bit of provincial France transported to the banlieue. It's a littly pricey and pretentious, but great for a boozy lunch.

            In the Croix de Chavaux shopping centre, there's Chez Lili, a fantastic Vietnamese restaurant that I always forget about when the Vietnamese thread comes up on these boards.

            The market at the Croix de Chavaux takes place on Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays and IMO, is one of the most interesting in the Paris region.

            You also have le Radeau de Neptune on the rue Paul Vaillant Couturier ( who coined the expression "les lendemains qui chantent") where you can buy silver, glasses, table-cloths, cookware, napkins, and antiques and at great prices. Your parents are lucky. They can walk there, unlike poor parisans who have to wait, 2,3, 5 minutes for the metro to bring them there.

            1. re: vielleanglaise

              "There's also the Villa Neuf Trois. Situated near La Noue housing projects, this restaurant, housed in a huge 19th century bourgeoise demeure is like a little bit of provincial France transported to the banlieue. It's a littly pricey and pretentious, but great for a boozy lunch."

              Villa Neuf Trois, started by Stephane Renaud, author of Cochon et Fils. Ripailles. 365 and more, could actually be called an important restaurant. It's on one of my "someday" lists.

              1. re: mangeur

                I didn't know that.

                I rememember Inaki (sometimes you've got to namedrop) drunkingly showing me that book after a soirèe 'Minatures' at La Famille, back in the day, and I was living just up the road at the time and would eat there from time to time. If only I knew.

                What surprises you can find in such a an uncivilized part of the world.

                1. re: vielleanglaise

                  "What surprises you can find in such a an uncivilized part of the world."

                  Pow zoom. (I asked for it.)

              2. re: vielleanglaise

                I'm sorry, but I have to disagree. I live in Montreuil, and yes, generally it's a poor neighborhood, but the area around Croix de Chavaux/Robespierre is changing and becoming quite hipster/bobo.I would compare it to Fort Greene Brooklyn currently or Williamsburg Brooklyn before it became gentrified. There are a lot of artists around this area, not to mention, organic stores (Nouveaux Robinson) right around Robespierre.

                L'amourette is a charming French restaurant that is right on the rue Robespierre and serves traditional fare. Everything is well executed and it's great if your parents don't want to go very far.

                On the same block, there's an Italian restaurant, L'atelier, which is not bad if you're graving pasta.

                I also like Milonga, which is further away in Montreuil (and right next to the HLMs but hey, it's worth the trek), which has fusion "world" influences. I normally do not like fusion, but this place really hits the spot.

                And Villa 93 is good for parents (I guess). It's, as vielleanglaise said, pretentious traditional French.

                Second on the fact the market at Croix de Chavaux is awesome. You can bargain easily and you can always get a 4 euro galette from the Lebanese stand filled with meat, chese, labneh, etc.

                1. re: vielleanglaise

                  Thank God some sanity returned to this thread. First, they're mad when they are surrounded by American tourists. Then, they get mad when someone is looking for a restaurant in a neighborhood where real people live.

                  What do I know? I live two blocks from Chez Paul and I can't stand that place...

                  1. re: Busk

                    There's been quite a few informative and positive posts about Montreuil here, so it seems a bit excessive to write that sanity just returned to it.

                    1. re: Ptipois

                      I think it's excessive to take issue with my post.

              3. My favourite food neighbourhoods are around metro stops Bastille & Ledru-Rollin (11th & 12th arr)
                Chez Paul mentioned by OP is proper French - I had bone marrow with toast followed by entrecote cooked bleu plus dauphinoise potatoes - yum
                Nearby is Les Crocs - hole in the wall but amazing - had civet de marcassin - wild baby boar stew thickened with blood served simply with boiled potatoes and parsley - super yum
                Le Main d'Or - Corsican - the cheese course where they serve the same cheese at 5 stages of its lifetime finishing with Le Petit Pot - it's like an out of body cheese experience
                Also in that area is the Baron Rouge wine bar - the oyster seller should be set up outside by now
                And the food market - don't even get me started
                Lunch - soup place on Rue de Charonne

                Right, now I'm hungry - off to book Eurostar :-)

                1. thanks all, I'll pass them on!

                  1. Just because Rio dos Camaroes is a West African restaurant that does not mean it is a hole in the wall. Suggest you try it since the good West African restaurants of Paris have a style of their own. As Vieilleanglaise justly writes, there's plenty of gems in the burbs.

                    Aligre and Ledru-Rollin is quite a trek from Montreuil. Not exactly near. In that case, why not explore the treasures of the 93 jungle and perhaps sample Le Coq de la Maison Blanche in Saint-Ouen or Le Pouilly-Reuilly in Le Pré Saint-Gervais?

                    1. I'm not going to get involved in the discussion about Montreuil being civilised or not, as I'm not even in Paris! I think my parents were just a bit taken aback that it certainly wasn't the Paris they were used to. But it seems from the replies below that there are plenty of good options there and thereabouts - and now they have to entertain a very conservative American client in the area too so they'll be pleased to know about Chez Paul and Villa 93, I think. Thanks everyone.