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cuzco (or cusco), non-tourist and/or low key restaurants?

yek401 Nov 14, 2010 10:13 PM

My wife and I will be in Cusco for 4-5 days, and I'm looking for suggestions for restaurants/food stands serving delicious food, and I'd prefer non-touristy spots. I saw a solid list from _emilie_ on this board, but besides that, I've had a tough time finding reviews from folks with a similar consumption disposition as my wife and I have.

As far as I understand, Cuzco is a pretty touristy spot, and its always tougher to find local gems around tourists. Anyone have any useful recommendations or suggested reading?



  1. Porthos May 23, 2013 08:51 AM

    Just got back from Cusco and Lima last week.

    One of our favorites in Cusco was the food stalls in San Pedro Market. Very local. There is a row of stalls serving only Caldo de Gallina. The lady in the first stall is very friendly and speaks English. The caldo was delicious. We ate with such gusto she gave us a refill. The lady right next to her looked like she has good stuff also.

    We wandered further back and were overwhelmed by the selection. The busiest stall ran out of a stewed chicken dish that everyone was getting. We got a local stew of beef tendons and vegetables over rice. Excellent.

    3 Replies
    1. re: Porthos
      Porthos May 23, 2013 08:55 AM

      Attaching photos:

      1. re: Porthos
        Beach Chick May 23, 2013 09:03 AM

        Awesome Porthos!
        Looking at the Cusco JW Marriott in September.
        Anything food wise for a veggie tofu loving chica?
        Loved to hear more..

        1. re: Beach Chick
          Porthos May 23, 2013 09:39 AM

          See my response to you in the other thread regarding sights.

          Unfortunately, I am probably the worst person you could ask about vegetarian options. I did have cuy and really enjoyed my lamb seco. The choclo is delicious there though and they are known for their potatoes.

          There is a bakery next to the Hotel Monasterio that has very good bread and pastries.

      2. c
        camdenluxford Nov 15, 2010 08:21 AM

        Hi Jordan,

        I live in Cusco and my favourite place is very local - delicious, cheap, Creolle food. It's unimaginatively called "Caldo de Gallina Criollo" and is in Plaza Tupac Amaru. A taxi from the centre of town should cost you S/.2.5.

        The menu is apt to change but the caldo as a starter is essential - its a classic Peruvian dish, and this is the best one in Cusco and quite possibly in Peru!


        4 Replies
        1. re: camdenluxford
          yek401 Nov 15, 2010 07:47 PM


          If you think of any other good recommendations, it would be much appreciated.

          1. re: camdenluxford
            cfarivar May 14, 2013 05:53 PM

            Going to try this place tonight!

            1. re: camdenluxford
              cfarivar May 14, 2013 07:35 PM

              Yep! Still going strong! The price of the Caldo has gone up to S5, but still worth every centavo. My wife and I shared a bowl, also with a plate of "aeropuerto," which seemed to be basically a plate of fried rice with chicken and sausage. Their aji (chili sauce) was the best I've had in Peru so far. Also had a pitcher of Agua de cebada, (barley juice/cider) served warm with cinnamon. All that was S18, and plus the cab ride back to San Blas (S4), this was way better than most things I've had in Cusco in 72 hours.

              Sunday lunch of Lechón at La Quinta Eulalia (Calle Choquechaca 384) is hard to beat!

              1. re: cfarivar
                cfarivar May 14, 2013 07:46 PM

                Also seated one table over from us were three national police officers, in uniform. At least one was a member (according to his jacket), of "special operations".

                Two of them had Caldo, one had Aeropuerto. :-)

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