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limoen Nov 14, 2010 01:44 PM

Stovetop dulce de leche (without explosions)?

I've seen a lot of recipes calling for dulce de leche to be made by boiling an unopened can of condensed milk and also recipes which call for the condensed milk to be cooked in a water-bath (on the stovetop) or in a water-bath in the oven.

Is there any reason the condensed milk couldn't be cooked directly on the stove in a saucepan, over a low heat and keeping a careful eye on it, much as I would when making caramel? I've read that waterbath DDL can sometimes be grainy but surely a quick whisking or blitzing with the stick-blender (er, once cooled, because I don't want to get burned - the reason I'm not boiling an unopened can. Sorry, I know it has a lot of fans, but it's not for me. I don't mind living a bit dangerously but this doesn't sound like a good idea on a gas stove in a small kitchen).

If anyone has any experience doing this, let me know - should I be adding a bit of liquid at the beginning of the cooking process to keep it from catching, and if so should I add water or a bit of fresh milk, or something else (e.g. water and milk powder, or whatever)?

Thank you!

  1. l
    limoen Nov 17, 2010 01:48 PM

    I made the DDL on the stovetop tonight, since I had some condensed milk leftover (another reason I didn't want to try the boil-in-can method). It didn't take long, but cooking it to a brown caramel made it harden, not pourable/spreadable like photos of DDL I've seen. When it was still spreadable it was very blonde and still tasted mostly like condensed milk. It reduced a LOT, was hard like toffee/hard caramel and there was a lot of wastage. I also don't think it tasted amazing: it tasted like a rich caramel, but quite one-note. I made it into candies wrapped in baking paper. I don't know if its because it was cooked over the stove but the flavour wasn't as complex as expected. It was fine to clean, though (the buttercream I made this evening as well was more of a hassle to clean up!)

    I'll try it again using the oven method and the slightly-open-can method, I guess...

    3 Replies
    1. re: limoen
      paulj Nov 17, 2010 02:00 PM

      In the boil-in-can method, the milk does not reduce anymore, and does become quite brown and caramelized. It thickens due to that caramelization, not due to reduction.

      1. re: paulj
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        limoen Nov 17, 2010 03:04 PM

        It makes sense and I will bite the bullet this weekend when I might actually be in the house for three hours. Just a few questions I can't seem to find answered through Google, despite the huge amount of people who use this method:

        Can I bring my pot of water to the boil (with the cans in, before turning down to a simmer) with the lid on? Can I keep the lid on during the simmering process? NB I don't have a pressure cooker but I assume lid-on is okay since lots of people seem to make this in a pressure cooker.

        1. re: limoen
          l
          LauraGrace Nov 17, 2010 03:32 PM

          Yes and yes! :)

    2. iheartcooking Nov 15, 2010 06:36 AM

      I've done it on the stovetop. It's a pain... Messy, lumpy, much easier to do it in the can which I do ALL the time.

      1. mels Nov 15, 2010 06:14 AM

        I agree that you will be stirring for a long time. I have seen some recipes out there on the web calling for putting it into the oven and stirring intermittently. One of those recipes may suit your needs or at least help you translate the recipe for a stovetop adaptation.

        I was scared of can boiling for years and then finally bit the bullet. There really is zero danger if you use a stockpot because there is no way all of that water could boil off in 3-4 hours. If you are willing to try it, and I understand being hesitant since I was too, this is a foolproof way:

        Put 4 cans of condensed milk in a stock pot full of water (8 quarts) and bring to a simmer. Once simmering, keep the water at a light simmer for 3-4 hours. Check water levels from time to time but chances are you won't need to add any. If you are really nervous, keep the water very full the entire time. There really is no way they could explode using this method unless you A. Forget about the pot for 8 hours and let 4 quarts of water simmer away, or B. Have the cans boiling rapidly, where your water all evaporates.

        4 Replies
        1. re: mels
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          limoen Nov 17, 2010 01:40 PM

          The cans seem extraordinarily flimsy, and it's not just boiling them for hours, its worrying about dropping them when getting them out of the water...They'll still be under pressure then

          1. re: limoen
            l
            LauraGrace Nov 17, 2010 01:46 PM

            I just let it completely cool still in the water, usually overnight. No handling scalding-hot, pressurized cans for THIS girl!! ;)

            1. re: LauraGrace
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              limoen Nov 17, 2010 03:04 PM

              Thank you! I was just asking that question when I saw your answer. It doesn't make the DDL overcook?

              1. re: limoen
                l
                LauraGrace Nov 17, 2010 03:29 PM

                Nope, not in my experience. I reckon it would make more of a difference if you're going for something pourable, but I always do a really firm DDL for dipping purposes. I use my biggest stockpot (total overkill but that's how I roll), put a washrag on the bottom (avoiding temperature changes) and cover the pot with a sheet pan weighted down with two cast iron skillets. Again, total overkill, but better safe than... you know... ;)

        2. v
          vgoas Nov 15, 2010 05:53 AM

          Just a quick note - my grandmother, my mom and I have been cooking unopened cans for several decades without any explosions. The key is to make sure that can is always covered with water (so you'll have to add more water to the pot periodically and keep and eye on it).

          Good luck with whatever you decide to do (and enjoy it, of course!)

          1. l
            LauraGrace Nov 14, 2010 05:05 PM

            IME, using full-fat condensed milk is the key to no graininess. Alton Brown has a recipe for DDL made from fresh milk, and you sure can do the condensed milk straight in a saucepan, just have to keep stirring at it until it's the color and texture you want.

            2 Replies
            1. re: LauraGrace
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              limoen Nov 15, 2010 01:11 AM

              Thanks! Not sure if I have the time to do it from fresh milk, but will give the condensed milk version a go on the stovetop!

              1. re: limoen
                bushwickgirl Nov 15, 2010 05:44 AM

                You might be stirring for a long time, it takes quite a while for a can of condensed milk to go from that to dulce. You'll need a flame tamer to boot.

                Have you seen David Lebovitz' oven water bath method, no exploding cans, easy and you only have to check it a few times:

                http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2005/11/...

                I recommend this method above all others.

                EDIT: I don't mean to imply that the cans explode, although I'm sure it's happened to a few terrifically forgetful people. Maintaining the water level with that technique is everything. I find the oven method works for me.

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