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Copenhagen for one week

notjustastomach Nov 3, 2010 07:11 AM


I will be in Copenhagen for a little over one week. I arrived today, and because my life is so busy I did not have much time to browse Chowhound ahead of time.

So, I have found recommendations for numerous high-end, destination restaurants. But can somebody recommend excellent, moderately priced neighborhood restaurants?

I am staying In an apartment in Vesterbo, so recommendations for this area are particularly welcome. This is my first time in Copenhagen.

Also, I eat seafood and veggie, but no land-animal flesh.


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    Nancy S. RE: notjustastomach Nov 3, 2010 09:58 AM

    Definitely go to Fiskebaren. The website is www.fiskebaren.dk. It's fabulous and reasonably priced. Make sure you reserve in advance.

    5 Replies
    1. re: Nancy S.
      notjustastomach RE: Nancy S. Nov 5, 2010 02:52 AM

      Thanks Nancy S.

      I went last night, and unfortunately was somewhat underwhelmed. I had the razor clams, snow crab, mussels, and poached scallops. Of the four dishes, the razor clams was the only one that I found revelatory and surprising. The scallops were very tasty and perfectly cooked, but in fact the mushrooms in the dish were even better. The mussels were uniformly overcooked, though the broth was creamy and delicious. And the snowcrab was just bland.

      This restaurant struck me as having more style than substance, a feeling only brought home by the fact that they charged Dkk 60 for a carafe of cold water.

      1. re: notjustastomach
        Nancy S. RE: notjustastomach Nov 5, 2010 06:38 AM

        I'm sorry to hear this. We had a great meal. The chef is from noma, so the restaurant sources its products quite well and, in my experience, prepares them successfully too. I have heard nothing but excellent reports, so it saddens me that you did not like it. Maybe it was an off night for the restaurant.

        1. re: Nancy S.
          notjustastomach RE: Nancy S. Nov 5, 2010 02:31 PM

          Thank you for your solicitude, Perhaps my expectations were too high.

          1. re: notjustastomach
            Nancy S. RE: notjustastomach Nov 5, 2010 03:46 PM

            Trust me, I have exceedingly high expectations, and they were matched at Fiskbaren. The other nights in Copenhagen, I had dinner at noma, AOC and Sollerod Kro. Geranium, which was a highlight of my holiday in 2008, had not yet opened. I worry that the restaurant has slipped. For other ideas, look at Trine Lai's blog, verygoodfood.dk, which is an excellent resource.

            1. re: Nancy S.
              estufarian RE: Nancy S. Jan 13, 2011 12:13 PM

              I don't have the time to do a complete report so am attempting to update just a little, and this thread seems to be the best place.

              Of course, everybody will want to try Noma, so a review is probably not necessary. Truly innovative and worth a special visit!

              But where else to go? We reviewed this (and other threads) and gave second place to AOC - in our estimation it offered a new take on more traditional Nordic cuisine. Also exceptional.

              Close behind is the 'new' Geranium - if anything, the overall 'experience' is the most professional of all the top places. The food is also extremely good, but seems to be trending more towards an International style. An overreliance on airs and foams - 4 or 5 dishes featured these - although, to be fair they were always in context (e.g. if you are going to serve 5 'different' variations on potato, then there probably deserves to be a foam included). And be sure to get the new address if you're using map/direction software (don't just feed in the name) - we got a cancellation and rushed there - only to end up at the old location (which is apparently VERY common). The new place there (Orangerie) also looks good, and they were gracious about calling a cab and giving directions - but we still felt like 'dumb tourists'.

              But, for the tasting menus, prices were similar at all of the above - so Noma is probably the best deal.

              Many other 'noted' places were closed in January (e.g. Herman, Ida Davidsen, Relae) and we walked out of Nimb for a weekend lunch as it was a buffet with bacon eggs and suchlike (OK some Danish dishes too - but still sitting for who knows how long on a buffet).

    2. zuriga1 RE: notjustastomach Nov 6, 2010 11:51 PM

      I was in Copenhagen about a month ago. Aside from a dinner at Salt in the Admiral Hotel where we were staying, we tended to stick around the Nyhavn area for not too fancy dinners. We really enjoyed Fruhavn, right on the harbour... good shrimp curry, mostly fish menu and lovely staff.

      Salt was a good experience - typical Danish fish dishes in an elegant room with beautiful service. It certainly wasn't NOMA, but our boss wouldn't have paid for that. :-)

      4 Replies
      1. re: zuriga1
        currycue RE: zuriga1 Nov 9, 2010 06:35 AM

        Just bought a book from Katrine Klinken on Smorrebrod (various open faced sandwiches) and even though the guide books tell you that Ida Davidsen's is the best, she insists on trying aamann's (www.aamanns.dk) I'm going in April, so I'd love to see any other recommendations!

        1. re: currycue
          zuriga1 RE: currycue Nov 9, 2010 11:01 AM

          It's always noted that the Queen likes to eat at Ida Davidsen's. :-)

          When I was there, our hotel was close to Ida's and I did walk by. They have an amazing array of sandwiches, and I'd definitely try to go there on another visit. It could be that aamann's is even better. I do know that it's imperative to have a reservation at Ida's - very tough to just walk in on the day.

          1. re: currycue
            Nancy S. RE: currycue Nov 9, 2010 11:19 AM

            Go to aamanns for smorrebrod, as well as for dinner -- it's nomaesque.

            1. re: currycue
              Andreadoria56 RE: currycue Feb 13, 2011 12:55 AM

              Aamanns is a must try - but in my opinion Ida Davidsen is far from the best of the old traditional smørrebrøds places - it's not bad, but it's just not the best.

              Ambiance is a huge part of a visit to a frokost (lunch) place, and Davidsen is just a little tired and dinky.

              My favorite is:

              Schønnemann: http://www.restaurantschonnemann.dk/?...
              Told og Snaps: http://www.toldogsnaps.dk/ (sorry Danish only but Google Translate might work
              )Huset med det grønne træ (Means the house with the green tree): http://www.husetmeddetgroennetrae.dk/


          2. i
            ibreak4coffee RE: notjustastomach Jan 24, 2011 06:27 AM

            Has anyone been to Kiin Kiin? If so, I was wondering what the total cost ended up being? I'm a Thai food addict and really want to try it, but dont want to be forced into 5 glasses of wine for $100 rather than just one on top of the already fixed menu.

            1 Reply
            1. re: ibreak4coffee
              travelgourmet RE: ibreak4coffee Feb 16, 2011 09:40 PM

              The menu at Kiin Kiin is currently DKK 775, with a wine pairing coming in at DKK 675. I believe you can get wine by the glass, but I went with the pairing. They also have beer and fruit juices.

              Currently, DKK 5.50 = $1 (roughly). Roughly par for the course in Copenhagen, if not a little on the low side for a top place.

              Website is here, with more details: http://www.kiin.dk/menueng.html

              I liked Kiin Kiin, but not sure it was particularly memorable.

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