Wolfgang's Steakhouse: The Minimalist Burger
- ipsedixit Oct 29, 2010 03:30 PM
In a previous thread [here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/7418... ], Servorg mentioned that Wolfgang's might be dishing out a mighty fine burger.
So today, it was time to find out what Wolfgang's was up to, burger-wise.
Let's lay out what you get on the plate first. We'll divide the plate into 3 sections.
On the first section, you have the burger, which is this thick beef patty sandwiched between a bun.
Then on another section of the plate you have about what I counted to be 4 slices of iceberg lettuce, topped with big thick slice of tomato, a slice of onion (with nice perfect concentric circles), and some dill pickle slices. Sort of like what you would get a typical roadside diner.
On the last tri-section of the plate, you have what I like to call "frings" a combo of onion rings and fries.
Lets return to the burger, which is why we're here in the first place, right? It's 10 oz. of dry-aged Prime Angus beef (at least that's what I was told). It's thick and you can tell from looking at it that it was properly formed -- i.e., loosely. My burger, ordered medium-rare, was nicely charred on the exterior and nice and juicy reddish-pink in the middle.
Let me just say this now and get it out of the way ... this is one *#@*$&% great burger.
But you know what? To best enjoy this beast, you have to enjoy it just as it is.
Do not make the mistake that I almost did by garnishing the burger with the lettuce, tomatoes, etc. that accompany the plate -- consider them decoration. And, again, do not partake of the "frings" as they will only get in the way of your full enjoyment of the burger. Trust me, your stomach is only so big.
When you order it (and you should), and it is served to you, simply allow yourself to gaze at it for a moment, let it rest and if you're very very quiet (cue: Elmer Fudd) you can almost hear the last echoes of the meat sizzling from its time on the grill.
Then, using both hands (and you have to), pick it up and take a bite and just let all that beefy-goodness overwhelm your senses. Chew carefully and deliberately a few times and you can taste beef -- yes, beef! -- as well as the nuanced texture of beef that's ground properly, not abused in some food processor set on "High" or "Paste".
Having tried this burger, this question immediately popped into my mind, "Is this a better steakhouse burger than the one at Morton's?"
I've been a long time fan of Morton's Burger and if you were to ask me which is better I would only say that both are great in their own right.
The beauty of the Morton's burger is that it's the perfect combo -- a synergistic blend, if you will -- of beef, caramelized onions, bacon and cheddar.
Wolfang's burger, meanwhile, is the perfect minimalist burger, enjoyed best -- both visually and texturally -- without any accoutrements.
In other words, If you run with the 911 GT2 RS crowd, go to Wolfgang's. But if you prefer your Porsche as a 911 Cabriolet with navigation, A/C, and actual door handles, go to Morton's.
445 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210