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Oct 29, 2010 12:10 PM

Bourgogne Mousseux AOC

Q: which AOC is not listed in the "Index des Appellations" of the Guide Hachette des Vins 2011?
A: Bourgogne Mousseux


1) According to French Wikipedia

"Les cépages de 1er catégorie sont le Pinot noir et le Chardonnay. Ceux de 2e catégorie sont le Gamay (20% maximum), l'Aligoté, le Melon et le Sacy"

the appellation includes reds and whites ( and therefore, at least potentially, rosés ).

2) According to one of the few US merchants that carry BM, it refers exclusively to reds:

"The appellation Bourgogne Mousseux Rouge was established in 1943. It recognized transforming all Burgundy wines into sparkling wines by using the traditional method. However, since the creation of the appellation Crémants de Bourgogne, it applies only to the red sparkling wines. The Parigot house has remained loyal to this tradition and creates sparkling red Burgundies from a strict selection of Pinot Noir. A long aging in the cellars brings it to full maturity. Its dark ruby colour announces a solid structure composed of fine, elegant tannins. Its unique effervescence enhances the traditional bouquet of Burgundy wine. Served chilled, the audacity of pairing it with the most ordinary dishes will surprise."

Now, Fact 2) above clearly contradicts Fact 1); in no small measure by the stated name of the AOC ( "Rouge" ? )

Who's right? Who's wrong?

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  1. The Oxford Companion (3rd edition -- it's getting to be about time for a 4th, eh?) says Crémant de Bourgogne is the generic for sparkling white and pink Burgundy, "while the now rare red version is classifed as Bourgogne Mousseux."

    2 Replies
    1. re: carswell

      If the Oxford is correct, this might be the only known case of an American merchant beating two French wine resources: a) the Hachette for not listing the AOC, and b) the for getting it wrong.
      Only apparent mistake for is including "Rouge" in the AOC name.
      A minor mistake, if compared with the two above.

      1. re: RicRios

        «Only apparent mistake for is including "Rouge" in the AOC name.»

        If TOCTW is right, "rouge" would certainly be redundant. And redundancy is not Cartesian. Ergo whwc is wrong.

    2. (1) was apparently lifted from an older proscription of the (Bourgogne Mousseaux) Appellation. Bourgogne Mousseaux AOC(P) no longer includes white or rosé sparkling wines. The Cremant de Bourgogne AOC(P) was not codified until 1975, whereas Bourgogne Mousseux goes back to 1943.

      This can be verified by going to:, where you may also notice that the wikipedia article doesn't actually list the correct legal varietals, either, which now are actually:

      ― cépages principaux : gamay N et pinot noir N ;
      ― cépages accessoires : chardonnay B, pinot blanc B, pinot gris G et, pour le seul département de l'Yonne, le césar N.

      Also, the secondary grapes cannot exceed 15%, not 20%, and Cesar is only legal in the Yonne, and not exceeding 10%.

      Clearly I'm fun at parties, right?

      A nice example of why wikipedia is not always to be relied upon as an authoritative source. And I guess the other thing we sometimes forget about French wine law is that it is still changing, although not as rapidly as in Italy, etc. We actually got a couple new AOC(P)s this year even, not to mention the big AOC --> AOP changeover.