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Oct 25, 2010 04:54 PM

3X CANNOLI NORTH BEACH REVIEW (from an LA visitor, who *loves* Boston's North End cannoli, but is by no means an expert)

Visited your magnificent city this weekend for 3 days. It's always an incredible pleasure to come over and stay a while.

I've been to SF a dozen times or so before, but as my wife was at a convention for three days, this was the first time I've really had SF all to myself, so I was able to fully and selfishly indulge my curiosity and wander/foodlust. I decided this time to take a good few hours to explore North Beach for the first time.

First, an apology. No photos, and no notes. I'm winging it from my memory of yesterday. Also, the cannoli traveled for a couple of hours until I could meet up and share them with my wife, as I can't eat three cannoli by myself (anymore).

So, as far as the cannoli... my high water mark is Boston's north end. My god, we had heavenly cannoli there.... was it at Mike's? Or Modern... hm, now I can't remember. Filled to order, crispy shell and perfectly velvety smooth ricotta filling (not even the slightest hint of curds), exactly as sweet as it needed to be, with the tiny chocolate chips on the ends for much needed bitterness and textural difference, and dusted with powdered sugar (see photo for the perfect cannoli).

Based on several Chowhound reviews, I hit up Stella's, A Cavalli & Co, and Cafe Roma.

A Cavalli:
Great first impression: Cannoli shells filled to order. This was the only one of the three cannoli purveyors I visited that took the proper time to do this, as most pastry shops let the cannoli sog out as they live in the refrigerated case. Bad sign: the chocolate chips were too big, so much so that only about 5 or 6 were able to stick to each end (again, refer to photo for proper sized chips). Also, some candied fruit dropped onto the ends. Fruit = less room for chocolate. Great crispy shell (of course, not refrigerated and filled to order). However, I found the ricotta filling rich but quite bland, and not velvety smooth as it should have been. Too much gritty ricotta texture.

This one seems to be the most popular bakery for Cannoli. These were pre-filled and refrigerated. Not good. The texture of the filling was much smoother than A Cavalli, and more flavorful, but not great.

Cafe Roma:
By far the best of the three. Unfortunately, these also were pre-filled and refrigerated. However, the inside of the cannoli shell was coated with a layer of chocolate like a drumstick cone, and this helped minimize the sog factor. It also added a pleasant contrast of texture and flavor that was lacking from the absence of mini chocolate chips. I don't know why they just don't simply pipe to order and add the chips.... but this was an acceptable substitute. The filling... FANTASTIC. Really, really good. Perfectly velvety smooth, with a pronounced vanilla ricotta flavor. My only complaint, a minor one, was that the air exposed ends of the cheese congealed as the thing sat in the refrigerated case. This was easily taken care of with 2 bites.

Cafe Roma's really got a winner if they would just take the time to properly care for their cannoli. I'll certainly suggest it to them next time.

Oh, and the cost. Stella's cannoli was $4 whereas the other two were $5. I believe A Cavalli was significantly longer than the other two.

Mr Taster

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  1. Seriously, guys? Are SF Chowhounds really that lackadaisical about their Italian pastry? Where's the passion for the cannoli?

    Boston hounds would have been all over this review in 3 seconds.

    Mr Taster

    2 Replies
    1. re: Mr Taster

      Ah, North Beach...nearly devoid of its once charming ambience but Stella and Cafe Trieste still great places for a capuccino and a cannoli...personally, i like a bit of orange in there. i prefer a bit of grainy texture in the ricotta too but hey, i also like thicker, chewier skins on my dumplings...and chewier cats ears like i had yesterday at Tampa Garden...wheres the best cannoli in LA?

      Cafe Trieste
      199 New Montgomery St, San Francisco, CA 94105

      1. re: lapizzamaven

        LA is simply not a cannoli town, though to be fair I've not given much thought to any Italian San Pedro bakeries.

        Mr Taster

    2. If a future trip brings you to Palo Alto, you've got to try the cannoli at Cafe Renzo. It's a different style than Mike's and other North End greats. It's less sweet, but it has great depth of flavor to go along with the great texture.


      Cafe Renzo
      473 University Ave, Palo Alto, CA 94301

      1 Reply
      1. re: mdg

        So does anyone have a recommendation for a cafe with a good cannoli in San Francisco (preferably North Beach, Union Square, or close to those areas) where the (1) the filling is excellent AND (2) the cannoli is fresh-filled and not sitting around in a refrigerated case. I'll be visiting San Francisco during Christmas from Chicago. I grew up on cannolis in New York and still go there to get my cannoli fix, but it's not always easy to find fresh-filled cannoli in NY anymore.

      2. Romolo's Cannoli & Spumoni Factory in San Mateo might be worth a try next time. In North Beach, Cavalli Cafe makes very nice cannoli that are filled to order. Filled to order cannoli are rare, although I feel I might have seen mention of one or two other places.

        Cavalli Books & Cafe
        1441 Stockton St, San Francisco, CA 94133

        Romolo's Ice Cream Spumoni and Cannoli Factory
        81 37th Ave, San Mateo, CA

        1 Reply
        1. re: Cicely

          Didn't you read my review? Cavalli was fresh filled but the the filling was gritty and bland.

          Mr Taster