Good Eats in Seville?
I've searched throughout the board and through as many guidebooks as I can find, but I'm coming up with few recommendations for food in Seville, much less consistency in recommendations. Are there any good places to go to around the Barrio Santa Cruz area?
Thanks so much!!
Here is an excerpt from a recent post of mine about Andalucia:
In Sevilla, don't miss Zelai for spectacular tapas. Abantal was amazing. We had a 7-course tasting with wine pairings for 70 euros per person that was magnificent. Taberna del Alabardero is more traditional and the food is very good but not exceptional, but the old-world elegance makes it worth a visit.
The Barrio Santa Cruz is lively and fun but not known for great food. Bar Las Teresas is one of the better place for tapas. And Bar Modesto can be good. There is an excellent fried seafood place across from Modesto. Buy by weight and eat at the outside tables. The centro is very compact and full of excellent tapas places, therefore, don't get stuck in the Barrio Santa Cruz. I second Abantal; probably the best restaurant in Seville. Also good is the traditional Enrique Beccara, sit down as well as their tapas bar. Search this board as there have been many earlier posts on tapas eating in Seville. Even if the posts are couple years old, it is still relevant as not much changes.
The best way to eat tapas in Seville is to pick an area and do a crawl by hitting 3 or 4 bars. In centro, hit the tapas bar in Arenal, around the Pl Alfalfa, off the pedestrian C/Siepes. If you have extra timeand you don't mind a nice stroll in the evening, go to Eslava near the Alameda de Hercules. The tapas are inexpensive and terrific; another plus is the great staff. Bar Europa just east of c/Sierpes and near Pl del Pan is one of our favorites. Enrique Beccara is not inexpensive as their main plates are around 25E but they are huge. Their tapas bar is excellent and offer half portions (racions) as well as tapas of some their signature dishes. Triana is worth a stroll across the river as Sol y Sombra is good, so is Poncio. Seville is wonderful city.
We have settled on Sol y Sombra for our saturday lunch when we arrive as it is close to our accommodation - thanks to azahar's map for that one. Being Spain, our apartment man doesn't become available until 1700. I'm sure we can fill the time with eating, I just hope we don't overbalance coming back over the bridge.
In Seville right now for the last night. We had an OK meal at Modesto in Santa Cruz. Otherwise we got stuck at Becerrito (about 5-10min walk from Santa Cruz) and at his big brother Enrique Becerra (near the Cathedral). The tapas at both places were so good that we returned there for lunch AND dinner. The atmosphere was also good at both places. We had tapas only, did not eat at the restaurant. These two places have been consistently recommended on chowhound.
We loved Enrique Beccera as well - was just there a few weeks ago (their lamb meatballs with mint - amazing!). We wanted to go back but it was shut for Saturday lunch. We also loved Bar Las Teresas in Barrio Santa Cruz. Bar Europa was also good - at both locations. The best jamon iberico we had was at Bar Alfalfa.
We just spent 4 days in Sevilla at beginning of November. We tried to incorporate many of the suggestions both from this page and from Azahar. This is what we found:
First off, "tapas" in Sevilla are more like raciones in most other parts of the country. They really are pretty large-don't think this is tapa/pincho/pintxo sized!
(1) Las Teresas: we tried the gambas al ajillo as recommended by Azahar-but were disappointed. Under seasoned (garlic, salt, and chili) and a bit on the raw side-ugh. And I LOVE this dish normally. We are spoiled by the Casa del Abuelo in Madrid which, I think, is the definitive place for this dish. Bar is atmospheric if you haven't been to typical Spanish bar with hams hanging from ceiling and bullfighting posters. We live in Madrid, so this wasn't enough for us to stick around.
(2) Cervecería Giralda: Had the chipirones as recommended. Who knew fried squid would be so good with home made mayonnaise!?!?! But it was!
(3) La Cava del Europa: very nice sidewalk terrace with heat lamps on a cool November evening. Lovely waitstaff. We had the wan-tun (not sure what the fuss is about), and some really lovely mushroom & quail's egg dish whose name I can't remember. We returned!
(4) Bar Modesto-just had some wine there at the terraza since we were so stuffed at that point. The only thing is that we ran into a couple of bartenders/waiters with serious anti-guiri attitudes. I don't find that that often-and I have lived here for 5 years and speak Spanish.
(5) Becerrita: OMG! Amazing. Lovely people, nice atmosphere and beautiful pork. We had the Caballito de Jamón con Huevo de Codorniz, because San Sebastián taught us that God's perfect food is a fried quail's egg on top of Iberian ham on toast! San Jacobito-well, it was what it said-ham & cheese inside pork and deep fried. Presa Ibérica de Bellota con Mostaza Crujiente (really lovely cut of pork with a kind of mild mustard sauce that they caramelize with sugar so it almost gets a little bit marshmallowy). Sounds strange, but it was amazing-but I love sweet & savory. Yes, we ate two of those. This place was so good we had to return another day-my honey got Cola de Toro (ox tail stew) and I had the beautiful Presa Ibérica con Salsa Pedro Jiménez (pork with caramelized onions and sherry sauce). This last one was a daily special, not on the regular tapas menu. Again, so good we had to eat two of them!
(6) Vinieria San Telmo: tried this on our last day. It looked good, but....the fried chicken things were a bit odd/off putting/KFC like. The tzangurro was...strange. The cola de toro (oxtail stew) didn't taste like anything. We figured it was not worth the calories and went back to....Becerrita.
(7) Enrique Becerra. The only reason we didn't go back here after our first day was that it was monsooning outside and we didn't want to walk that far. BUT, we could have eaten every meal here. And we never even left the tapas bar. We had the albóndigas de cordero con hierbabuena (lamb meatballs with mint), which were good, but not as good as the stunning cordero con miel (lamb with honey). Yes, we had two of those. Also, the pastel de setas y langostinos (puff pastry with mushrooms & shrimp) and the queso de cabra con cebolla caramelizada (goat cheese with caramelized onion jam). Very homey place-and we were served by the lovely Rocío, Enrique's daughter. She was thrilled to see all the mentions of her father's place in Chowhound! So that's our recent take on things! Hope it is helpful!
I'd second those albondigas de cordero con hierbabuena at Enrique Becerra - we went back the next day to get more but unfortunately they were closed. We also had lovely morcilla with fried quails egg and a few other dishes (sorry I cant remember them all!) that were excellent.
We visited both sites of Bar Europa, both pretty good but there were a couple of hit and miss dishes - a 'ravioli' with salt cod being one of them.
Loved the jamon iberica at Bar Alfalfa, and great atmosphere. Also Bar Teresas- also went there a couple of times thought the gambas al ajillo were really good - very garlicky and cooked perfectly, so perhaps wendyinmadrid you got them on a bad day!
Of the Tapas bars we hit in 2008 when there, Bar Patanchon was the standout. I LOVE how they put the ham shavings in their Patatas Bravas sauce. So evil.
A terrific new gastro-tasca/gastro-taberna that isn't well known to visitors but is on the radar of Spain gourmet critics, bloggers, chefs. It opened in late '09.
it's deep in the heart of Triana, at Calle Numancia, 5.
If you don't specifically go looking for it you won't find it because it lies northwest of Calle Betis and the ceramic shops along San Jorge and Alfarería.
It has a completely unprepossessing exterior, at first glance made me think (very incorrectly), "why did my chef friend send me here"?
But the owner-chefs have kept the 70s retro look on purpose.
Once inside, I found an open kitchen, well-trained chefs, really creative, gastronomic small plates (no printed menu, just written in chalk at the bar), a sophisticated wine list and hands on service from the friendly co- owners, who come out and explain each dish and its ingredients.
It's innovative, fun and always crowded.
They don't take reservations and it does fill up quickly.
Closed Sunday nights and all day Monday.
Stand out dishes-
arroz meloso con venado
(creamy rice with venison)
foie with mango chutney
piruletas de chorizo
(chorizo on a stick covered in a delicious curry sauce-looks like stick candy)
All their creamy rice dishes are delicious- the menu of innovative dishes constantly changes.
For dessert they bring a tray of shot glasses from which to choose.
And this first class experience doesn't leave you with a big hole in your wallet.
this thread was helpful to me in my recent trip to sevilla, so i'll second much of what's been said here.
- we didn't have any blowout tasting dinners in our time in barcelona and sevilla, so bear that in mind when i say this: zelai offered the best, most interesting meal we ate on our trip, including what were likely the two best dishes: a duck and foie ragout with a creamy foam (sorry if i can't recall exactly what it was), and beautifully cooked bacalao with cauliflower crema, a touch of jamon, and butifarra blanca. the former was comfort food elevated, and a perfect for the cool, drizzly night. we stood at the bar, where service was very good -- helpful and well-informed.
- we had tapas lunch at enrique becerra twice. so good. homey, very friendly service, and excellent homestyle food. i'll second recommendations of the lamb meatballs and lamb in honey. also enjoyed cold almond and garlic soup, and braised pork cheeks. the dishes outlined here, plus four glasses of wine, totaled 20 euro. awesome value. and for what it's worth, we'd considered returning for dinner, but when we looked at the menu's offerings, it didn't make sense to us to pay 25 euro for larger dishes of the same food we ate in tapas/racions for 3-5 euro.
- we stumbled upon bar las teresas while meandering on our first night in town. stopped in for a handful of cold seafood tapas. octopus was a highlight.
- happened upon bar alfalfa at a later point. tiny, super charming, and as mentioned by a previous commenter, good jamon and manchego. very inexpensive too.
- visited becerrita for dinner, and enjoyed a great meal there. strangely, the most expensive dish we ate was a salad. is this typical of spain? we encountered very little in the way of lettuce, and in hindsight, it strikes me as especially silly that we paid 17 or so euro for a nice mixed greens salad with goat cheese, nuts, and fruit of some sort. good, but definitely nothing innovative or earth shattering. anyway, everything else there was tasty and a nice value. my girlfriend particularly enjoyed the pork/mustard/caramelized sugar dish that another poster commented on. tasty oxtail croquettes, as well as a pork dish that we weren't prepared for -- what was a warm, near rare, loin, wrapped in part with idiazabal or garrotxa, in a sauce i can't recall. staff here spoke little english, and the english menu didn't explain the plate very well. regardless, it tasted good once we got past our initial surprise.
thanks to all who commented previously. you were all very helpful in steering us to a number of excellent meals.