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Oct 19, 2010 08:56 AM

Moustache in the 6th: Undiscovered as yet by the big boys, but it could well be this year's Spring, Afaria, Frenchie

Today I had my second meal at Moustache in the 6th and it and its chef were simply superb. Unfortunately it was reviewed by Rubin the same week as the new Spring and has been over-shadowed by the big boys' reviews of Saturne and the MiniPalais, which are admittedly very good, and Philou and 104, which come close behind, but it deserves to be visited. Some pictures of both meals can be found at John Talbott's Paris. Run don't walk.

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  1. My esteemed friend, Dr. T., has uncovered yet another pearl, “La Moustache”. Ms. L. and I had one of the best lunches there today of the last 2 months. Granted this is not “Spring” or “Saturne” , but more in its category, we have enjoyed both “Frenchie” and “Afaria” and to us this place leaves them in the dust. Fabien Chivot, the one man band there is knowledgeable and welcoming, a native Parisian who trained under Daniel Boulud among others.

    The interior is fresh but classic with brick walls on one side, comfortable seating and a lovely bar. The cuisine is a play on fusion as evidenced by one of our starters, a “bouillon galanga (ginger relative) coco au sot l’y laisse”, which uses a bistro classic, chicken oysters, with Asian touches, galanga, kaffir lime, and citronelle among others…outstanding. The main courses of sautéed St. Jacques served with an unusual black rice(riz noir interdit) and slices of beef filet were good product, well cooked, but a side dish stole the show for me, a dish of seasonal vegetables wok sautéed. The wine list is well thought out with something in most tastes and price ranges.

    M. Chivot expressed concern that practically no one other than our own Dr. T. has discovered his place …we were the only ones there today, so I implore you to get there soon and in numbers.

    10 Replies
    1. re: Laidback

      Ah, giving me a reason to go back to Paris (like I needed one, lol)

      It goes on the list for next time...........


      1. re: parisjo

        Can anybody give me the phone number and address because a little research on internet(even if I am good) did not help me much and will be in Paris friday.

        1. re: phyero

          Thank you Dr and Mrs. L.

          For phyero : Moustache, 3, rue Sainte-Beuve in the 6th (Metros: Vavin or ND des Champs), T:, closed Sundays; open for dinner only on Saturday and Monday.

          1. re: John Talbott

            I ate there for lunch today, had the calamar and crevettes salad followed by steamed filet of bar in lime juice, both lovely and light. I wanted to correct the hours mentioned above -- the restaurant is open for dinner everyday except Sunday.

      2. re: Laidback

        Never a fan of Afaria and not of late of Frenchie, I find the comparisons difficult. What worries me about La Moustache are the Asian accents. Are all of the menu options similarly slanted or does M. Chivot have other approaches up his sleeve?

        1. re: mangeur

          "does M. Chivot have other approaches up his sleeve?"

          As new as it is I don't think M. Chivot has unrolled his sleeves yet, but we are going again Friday with another couple and will report back. There was a light Thai/Asian influence our 1st visit, reminiscent of Wm. Ledeuil, which may explain why Dr. T. and I both liked it.

          Incidentally, since John's review, it has now been reviewed by Richard Hesse and Alec Lobrano.

          1. re: mangeur

            Most of the items do have an Asiatic twist save yesterday's beef cheeks terrine

            BTW I got a message from M. Chivot on my blog that his telephone was acting up and another friend said he couldn't reach the resto so he'll try to drop by.

            1. re: John Talbott

              I had dinner at moustache yesterday.Its definitely a wonderful addition to the restaurant scene in Paris.I think that's what J Talbot was referring to when he mentions l'afaria and spring,however its different, as alluded to by others because of the type of cuisine.Its related more to that of ZE Kitchen galerie in terms of the use of asiatic spices and herbs.
              When I mentioned that to the chef ,he said he was in illustrious company.
              I started with a salad of calamari and shrimp,infused with coriander.It was divine.The main was chateaubriand ,which was marinated in soy sauce .IT was tender ,perfectly cooked and delicious,however slightly salty.The side of french fries was disappointing,as they were soft and mushy.I wish i had ordered the grilled vegetables instead.Dessert was belle Helene pear.Classic and fine.Total cost was 60 euros with 3 glasses of wine

              1. re: pierre

                "I wish i had ordered the grilled vegetables instead."
                Pierre, sorry to say that both times I've been there I've loved them and I never order fries in France or the US, sad to say.
                For others they offer you a choice of accompaniments.

          2. re: Laidback

            My fiance and I were looking for a perfect place to spend dinner after i proposed to her that night. We accidentally stumbled across Moustache and what a find. We had the perfect evening drinking great wine and eating amazing food and once we let the 'cat out of the bag' that we were newly engaged, Fabien made us most welcome. The service was excellent, but most importantly the beef was the best ive ever had. Ok slightly more importantly my fiance said 'yes'. Highly recommend this restaurant.

          3. Had dinner at Moustache last night. The meal was first rate. The room was comfortable and the entire experience was charming. The chef was a most genial host. The food was excellent. The filet was perfectly done with a rich sauce, the steak tartar was terrific. The chocolate dessert was a standout. All the positive reviews on this site are well deserved. A very positive recommendation from this diner.

            1. John - is there some way to send you a private email? Can't figure this out here or on your blog - sorry for being such a Luddite!

              1 Reply
              1. re: estnet

                i was looking yesterday as well. John's reviews and his blog is fabulous. I'd love to ask him a question or 2.