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November 2010 Cookbook of the Month: World of Food & Cooking of the Southwest France, Paula Wolfert

smtucker Oct 17, 2010 09:01 PM

The winner(s) of the November 2010 Cookbook of the Month is the WORLD OF FOOD & THE COOKING OF SOUTHWEST FRANCE by Paula Wolfert.

This thread will be a place to discuss ingredients, techniques and the book in general. On November 1st, the recipe threads for these two cookbooks will be posted. Please wait to post your reviews until those threads are up so that we have them nicely organized going forward.

For our new members, reviewing a recipe is easy. Locate the best thread for your dish, post the name of the recipe and page number, and then review away!

Some of the questions you might answer include: Did it come out well? Did you modify the ingredients? Was the seasoning good or did you need less/more? How did your family like it? Would you make it again? Is this a quick weekday or a company is coming recipe? Did your kid(s) like it? And bonus points for photos.


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  1. greedygirl RE: smtucker Oct 18, 2010 04:33 AM

    Can't find World of Food from a UK supplier so I would have to have it shipped from the US. There are several very cheap copies on Amazon but I'm wondering if it's worth it. Could someone who has the book give me a few more details please. Oakjoan, I'm talking to you....

    2 Replies
    1. re: greedygirl
      Gio RE: greedygirl Oct 18, 2010 04:55 AM

      Hi GG.. Here's Oakjoan's list of favorite PW recipes from World of Food, and other books, from a 2007 thread:

      It's the first of her listing.

      1. re: Gio
        The Dairy Queen RE: Gio Oct 25, 2010 04:15 AM

        Here's a more recently listing of oakjoan's favorites from just WOF. http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/7326...


    2. roxlet RE: smtucker Oct 18, 2010 04:53 AM

      I just ordered World of Food from abebooks.com for under $4 including shipping! GG, did you try there?

      4 Replies
      1. re: roxlet
        greedygirl RE: roxlet Oct 18, 2010 05:05 AM

        Yes - all the copies are in the US so they'd have to be shipped from there. Not terribly expensive though.

        1. re: greedygirl
          Breadcrumbs RE: greedygirl Oct 18, 2010 06:15 AM

          Hi gg,

          I'll paste a link to EYB below where you can take a look at the book index and see if anything appeals if you think that might help.

          I did this, found a number of recipes I imagined we'd like and decided to order (from Abe's) I'm really glad I did.

          What I especially like about this book are the stories that accompany the recipes, I'm really enjoying learning about the origins of the dishes Wolfert presents. Her stories are insightful, in some cases funny and always entertaining. I also appreciate her "Notes to the cook" where she includes tips, suggestions, substitutions and suggestions for alternative ingredients.

          Here's the link to EYB:


          1. re: Breadcrumbs
            greedygirl RE: Breadcrumbs Oct 18, 2010 06:37 AM

            Thanks very much for that.

        2. re: roxlet
          Gio RE: roxlet Oct 18, 2010 10:21 AM

          I did too... Looks like I'll be in the fray again after basically taking a month off.

        3. s
          smtucker RE: smtucker Oct 18, 2010 06:46 AM

          Paula Wolfert does have a website, though it has not been updated recently. There are a few recipes, but no indication of which book they first appeared in.

          http://www.paula-wolfert.com/ She is also on twitter @soumak

          1. j
            JaneEYB RE: smtucker Oct 18, 2010 07:54 AM

            I own The Cooking of South-West France (quite unused from the look of it) and have just ordered a bargain used copy of The World of Food from amazon, so I'm all set and raring to go. The kids have had their month of regular food from the Barefoot Contessa so in November it's back to more exotic food - yipee!

            1 Reply
            1. re: JaneEYB
              jen kalb RE: JaneEYB Oct 18, 2010 10:13 AM

              DO be aware that there are two versions of Southwest France - the original version from the 80s and an updated version put out in 2005 with additional/revised recipes. Either one would be good Im sure (I own both), but the new one would probably be the one to target.

            2. blue room RE: smtucker Oct 18, 2010 07:54 AM

              I noticed on P. Wolfert's website that her "...World of Food" has been renamed
              "Mostly Mediterranean".

              1. s
                smtucker RE: smtucker Oct 18, 2010 09:47 AM

                Whoohooo! @soumak is now following me on twitter and has RT'ed my chowhound COTM announcement. What are the chances she might stop in for a few moments after the month begins?

                4 Replies
                1. re: smtucker
                  Gio RE: smtucker Oct 18, 2010 10:22 AM

                  I say that's a real possibility, SMT.

                  1. re: smtucker
                    The Dairy Queen RE: smtucker Oct 18, 2010 10:42 AM

                    Most importantly, she tweets "Start the confit now to be ready." Sounds like we should get our copies of the books sooner rather than later!

                    Hopefully we'll all feel comfortable being completely honest about our assessment of the recipes even though we know the author might be reading along...


                    1. re: The Dairy Queen
                      smtucker RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 18, 2010 11:22 AM

                      that was actually my tweet, which has now be re-tweeted.

                      1. re: smtucker
                        The Dairy Queen RE: smtucker Oct 18, 2010 11:25 AM

                        Oh, funny. My mistake, sorry about that. Yeah, I'm not a big fan of social media. I can't wait for it to die, actually.


                  2. Bada Bing RE: smtucker Oct 19, 2010 07:10 AM

                    Great! I have been hankering for a Wolfert Southwest French Cooking month for some time and hope to join in here, even if the season is very busy. I'll look into World of Food, too.

                    I will soon post a separate query to Home Cooking specifically about duck. Must get cracking right away on making confit.

                    7 Replies
                    1. re: Bada Bing
                      smtucker RE: Bada Bing Oct 19, 2010 07:21 AM

                      I have a pretty good confit "recipe" that I think it terrific. Would you like me to post it?

                      1. re: smtucker
                        Bada Bing RE: smtucker Oct 19, 2010 08:34 AM

                        Would love to see it!

                        1. re: Bada Bing
                          smtucker RE: Bada Bing Oct 19, 2010 09:18 AM

                          It isn't in my recipe documents folder, so you will have to wait until tomorrow when I can type it out. It is a recipe I found online, used by Tom Colicchio at Tavern on the Green.

                          1. re: smtucker
                            Caitlin McGrath RE: smtucker Oct 19, 2010 10:33 AM

                            smtucker, I think you must mean Gramercy Tavern, which is the restaurant where Colicchio was formerly chef.

                            1. re: Caitlin McGrath
                              jen kalb RE: Caitlin McGrath Oct 19, 2010 10:38 AM



                              1. re: Caitlin McGrath
                                smtucker RE: Caitlin McGrath Oct 19, 2010 11:09 AM

                                You are probably correct! I should have kept my mouth shut until I actually located the recipe. :-)

                        2. re: Bada Bing
                          roxlet RE: Bada Bing Oct 19, 2010 10:13 AM

                          My husband always uses the confit recipe from Wolfert's The Cooking of Southwest France. Check it out if you have the book. It is always fabulous.

                        3. buttertart RE: smtucker Oct 19, 2010 10:41 AM

                          Re duck: don't forget to check your local Chinese markets for duck parts - mine carries frozen duck legs, at very reasonable cost. Stay away from mine... ;-)

                          7 Replies
                          1. re: buttertart
                            roxlet RE: buttertart Oct 19, 2010 12:14 PM

                            We currently have (and I believe this is what my husband said) 32 duck breasts in the freezer. Don't ask. Now I know he will soon be buying whole ducks to break down for confit, so maybe just duck legs would be a better idea!

                            1. re: roxlet
                              buttertart RE: roxlet Oct 19, 2010 12:20 PM

                              16 ducks worth of breasts??? I thought I was bad with the usual 4-6 week backlog of meats etc on hand.

                              1. re: buttertart
                                roxlet RE: buttertart Oct 19, 2010 01:48 PM

                                He goes to the Restaurant Depot and gets carried away. He forgets we don't have a restaurant! At least he hasn't come home with one of those 50 gallon drums of MSG that they have there.

                                1. re: roxlet
                                  buttertart RE: roxlet Oct 19, 2010 01:50 PM

                                  One of those is a design "feature" in a restaurant in Flushing that's much discussed. They said they use it to store rice in!

                                  1. re: buttertart
                                    roxlet RE: buttertart Oct 19, 2010 01:54 PM

                                    Yes, but they have to have used the contents first!

                                    1. re: roxlet
                                      buttertart RE: roxlet Oct 19, 2010 01:58 PM

                                      No kidding! And it's serving a Chinese cuisine that's wheat, not rice, based.

                              2. re: roxlet
                                greedygirl RE: roxlet Oct 19, 2010 02:23 PM

                                32 duck breasts!! That's quackers (sorry).

                                I have large cans of duck confit that I bought in South-West France. Now might be the time to use it.

                            2. NYCkaren RE: smtucker Oct 19, 2010 02:15 PM

                              Yay! I haven't participated recently but I own the Southwest France book (and I love it) so I'll look forward to joining the party.

                              1. BigSal RE: smtucker Oct 19, 2010 08:30 PM

                                Oakjoan made reference to Chicken Liver Salad with Apples and Watercress from the Cooking of SW France. I have the 2005 version and am unable to find it. Can anyone refer me to the page number or is it not in this edition? Thank you.

                                5 Replies
                                1. re: BigSal
                                  smtucker RE: BigSal Oct 19, 2010 08:38 PM

                                  my edition is also 2005 and doesn't have any chicken liver recipes.

                                  1. re: smtucker
                                    oakjoan RE: smtucker Oct 20, 2010 12:19 AM

                                    I can't tell if BigSal or smtucker are interested in actually making the Chicken Liver Salad. If you are, I'll be glad to post a paraphrased recipe for you guys and anybody else who's in the mood.

                                    1. re: oakjoan
                                      BigSal RE: oakjoan Oct 20, 2010 04:20 AM

                                      That would be great if you have the time. You mentioned this as one of your favorites from The Cooking of SW France and was unable to find it in mine. http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/446459 Is this in the 2003 addition?

                                      1. re: oakjoan
                                        oakjoan RE: oakjoan Oct 22, 2010 03:53 PM

                                        Here's the Chicken or Duck Liver Salad With Apples and Watercress

                                        Her note says that she looks for pale chicken livers...she says "they have a very delicate flavor which is necessary to make this dish distinctive." She also says it's a good salad to make when you're cutting up ducks for confit.

                                        She also notes that duck cracklings are good added to this salad.

                                        4 chicken or duck livers (cleaned up with sinews, etc., removed.

                                        My husband is a huge chicken liver (or any other liver for that matter) fan and loves this salad.


                                        Coarse salt

                                        1 1/4 cups washed watercress - picked over to discard tough stems, etc.

                                        1 tasty red apple, unpeeled

                                        2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

                                        1 Tbsp. sherry wine vinegar

                                        1 Tbsp. walnut oil

                                        2 1/2 - 3 Tbsps. olive oil

                                        Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

                                        2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

                                        2 thin slices of dry salami or garlic sausage (I think she means ONLY cooked sausage) cut into strips

                                        1 leek, split in two, trimmed, and washed. Cut this into verrrrry thin slices. She says to hold this in ice water, but I never have and it turns out fine unless you're going to have a long wait until it's served. It's important to get rid of any tough outer layers of leek leaving only the white part.

                                        Soak livers in milk which has been lightly salted, for at least 3 hours

                                        In a serving bowl, put watercress, the apple (cut in half and sliced thinly) and sprinkle it with lemon juice. Add apple to the cress.

                                        Rinse livers to clean off milk. Drain them but don't pat dry.

                                        Heat butter in a small frying pan and cook the livers for about 1 and a half minutes per side. Remove from pan and let rest for a couple of minutes. Slice them thinly on the diagonal. Toss the apple and watercress with the dressing and distribute among 4 plates. NOTE: I NEVER USE 4 PLATES, BUT ONE SALAD BOWL.

                                        Top with the livers. Grind some pepper over each salad and scatter with the salami and drained leek. Serve right away.

                                        1. re: oakjoan
                                          BigSal RE: oakjoan Oct 22, 2010 06:35 PM

                                          Thank you for posting this. I love chicken liver too!

                                  2. j
                                    JaneEYB RE: smtucker Oct 20, 2010 08:05 AM

                                    I checked my edition of SW France which is 1999 Grub Street UK (copyright 1983) and it seems quite different to the 2005 revised edition on amazon, at least in the order of chapters. Without checking every recipe I'm not sure how many of those have changed - no doubt we will discover as the month progresses when we want to try a recipe someone else has posted about, and we find it's not in our edition (like the Chicken Liver Salad, which is in my book).

                                    18 Replies
                                    1. re: JaneEYB
                                      Gio RE: JaneEYB Oct 20, 2010 09:19 AM

                                      We can list the edition we're cooking from when we make our reports. I can't imagine the edition I'll be getting from Abe's, but I'm guessing it's the older version since it was so inexpensive.

                                      1. re: Gio
                                        jen kalb RE: Gio Oct 20, 2010 10:30 AM

                                        Wolfert says in her foreward to the 2005 edition that she has tested and rewritten almost every recipe, has dropped some recipes that are "outdated" (probably debatable - that chicken liver recipe and the duck liver/wild mushroom salad that follows both look great), and added about 60 recipes, over 30 completely new and about 2 dozen from another book out of print in 2005 (World of Food? we will see) Whichever book anyone is cooking from there are plenty of great looking recipes there. Like you say, Gio, we will just need to be explicit about the book we are using.

                                        1. re: jen kalb
                                          carswell RE: jen kalb Oct 24, 2010 09:03 PM

                                          «she has tested and rewritten almost every recipe, has dropped some recipes that are "outdated" (probably debatable - that chicken liver recipe and the duck liver/wild mushroom salad that follows both look great), and added about 60 recipes»

                                          I can confirm this. I was part of the team -- mostly eGullet recruits -- that tested the recipes for the new edition. Paula normally tests all her cookbook recipes herself at least three times but, having done that with the original edition, she dreaded repeating the process. Her solution was to ask for volunteer testers: she prepared the recipes once or twice, then sent them out to her testing team, who collectively tested them at least a couple more times.

                                          When Paula wrote the first edition, many basic SW French ingredients -- moulard ducks, raw foie gras, walnut oil, ventrèche, etc. -- were hard or impossible to get in North America, so she had to adapt many of the recipes for the ingredients available at the time. But the North American food marketplace has changed radically in the last 25 years and that change was the main reason she decided to prepare a new edition.

                                          The new edition often encapsulates the old recipes. For example, while the new duck confit recipe authentically calls for moulard ducks, it also includes work-arounds for muscovy and pekin ducks. However, in some cases the old recipes were such pale imitations of the real thing, she just decided to drop them.

                                          1. re: carswell
                                            roxlet RE: carswell Oct 25, 2010 04:20 AM

                                            Since you have tested the recipes, we look forward to your participation in this COTM!

                                        2. re: Gio
                                          Berheenia RE: Gio Oct 28, 2010 09:13 AM

                                          Good because the one I picked up at the library was donated in February 1989! I was still a youngster! Sort of. It's a large paperback with a forward by Barbara Kafka.

                                          1. re: Berheenia
                                            Gio RE: Berheenia Oct 28, 2010 09:43 AM

                                            My book arrived this past Tuesday... the 1988 edition. It seems so old fashioned now. but there are a few recipes I've already bookmarked to make. The vegetables and a few pasta dishes caught my eye so far.

                                            1. re: Gio
                                              The Dairy Queen RE: Gio Oct 28, 2010 09:44 AM

                                              What seems old fashioned to you about it, Gio?


                                              1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                Gio RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 28, 2010 10:00 AM

                                                The yellow pages... Haha.

                                                I don't know, actually. Just a feeling. What few recipes I read seemed to be ingredient heavy and time consuming as if I had all day to shop, prep and cook. But I'm not discouraged, just a bit intimidated. Sometimes I wish I were younger or Chowhound older so I could be my invincable self in the kitchen as I was in days of yore. Nothing intimidated me then...

                                                1. re: Gio
                                                  The Dairy Queen RE: Gio Oct 28, 2010 10:07 AM

                                                  HA! I have to say, I feel the same way, but couldn't put my finger on it. I am feeling both weary and intimidated when I read the recipes. I'm going to try some of the simpler recipes from the book. Like, some of the pasta dishes.


                                                  1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                    Berheenia RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 31, 2010 06:10 AM

                                                    I am not a regular CBTM person, although I do try to follow, but this month I am just not inspired to become one.. maybe in February this type of labor intensive cooking would appeal to me. I actually was actively looking for brains for one of the recipes but decided to use my own and return the book to the library.
                                                    I can't help wishing we did an occasional Cooking Magazine of the month. My Food and Wine and Bon Apetit November issues are calling me!
                                                    But please note, I don' t mean this post to marginalize the fantastic efforts youall do with the monthly CBTM work. It's always a pleasure to read the posts from this group of Chowhounders.


                                                    1. re: Berheenia
                                                      The Dairy Queen RE: Berheenia Oct 31, 2010 07:17 AM

                                                      Hey Ginny, if you're feeling inspired to cook from a certain source, such as a magazine, it can never hurt to start your own thread. Lots of people have that BonAp magazine and might be inspired to jump in and joine you And speaking of time crunched, I just picked a copy of Cooks Illustrated 30 minute suppers. I'm feeling super time crunched lately.


                                                      1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                        LulusMom RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 31, 2010 10:00 AM

                                                        I'm feeling really crunched for time too, I have to say. I hadn't heard about/seen Cooks Illustrated 30 minute suppers. This is something currently on the newstand or it's a book or what? Have you had a chance to look at it? Interesting?

                                                        1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                          LulusMom RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 31, 2010 10:03 AM

                                                          Decided to get off my lazy and overworked behind and check amazon to see if this was a book - I see that it is, from a few years back. Probably smartest for me to just stick to my current plan - cook meals I know well, and love, and that are super easy. But since when do I always pick the smartest choice when a new cookbook might be involved??

                                                          1. re: LulusMom
                                                            The Dairy Queen RE: LulusMom Oct 31, 2010 11:12 AM

                                                            It's actually a magazine that's on newstands right now for $8, but I wouldn't be surprised if had excerpts from that book you're referring, though the promotional materials said the recipes were "ALL-NEW"

                                                            List of recipes here: http://www.cooksillustrated.com/bookstore/detail.asp?PID=480

                                                            Funny, they have their own version of crash hot potatoes that they call and Garlic and Parmesan Potatoes. I think they do the first cooking in the microwave instead of boiling.

                                                            I tagged about 8-9 recipes I want to try.

                                                            I also picked up a copy of Gourmet Quick Kitchen Special edition about a month ago. Don't know if it's still on newstands. That was less of a bargain, $11-$12, I think. Plus, unlike Cooks Illustrated, many of those recipes are probably available free online somewhere. http://www.condenaststore.com/invt/135622/


                                                            I think cooking light has a similar issue out right now, but it hasn't tempted me yet, I guess.


                                                            1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                              The Dairy Queen RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 31, 2010 11:19 AM

                                                              P.S. I might even get Italian Easy & IE2 out of the library again to see if there are some more winterish recipes to try.

                                                              I do have about a half dozen Wolfert recipes tagged, too, but they are mostly vegetable recipes. For the moment, anyway, the recipes featuring meats and poultry seem just a bit overwhelming.


                                                              1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                                LulusMom RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 31, 2010 11:32 AM

                                                                I gave away my Wolfert book - too daunting, and especially right now, I just do not have the time or inclination.

                                                                Thanks for the info on this being a mag - I'm going to have to keep my eyes open for that. I may also (when I have a spare moment -um ....) do a search on epicurious for quick main courses. I always found that 10 minute/20 minute/etc. section of Gourmet incredibly useful. Found some great stuff. But then again, old favorites don't get eaten much around here (because of my cookbook addiction) so my husband has been pretty happy with the way things are going the past couple of weeks.

                                                                1. re: LulusMom
                                                                  The Dairy Queen RE: LulusMom Oct 31, 2010 11:39 AM

                                                                  Oh, I was going to mention about the CI mag; they do seem to have several recipes that rely on convenience foods, such as Uncle Ben's 90 second microwave rice (or whatever it's called) or instant Ramen noodles. It's not that I never use those things (well, actually, I can't remember the last time I had instant ramen noodles...), it's just that if I'm actually following a recipe, I want to be cooking real food. So, I flipped right past those... Anyway for what it's worth.

                                                                  Maybe I should check out the quick section of Gourmet Today again, too. Good suggestion!


                                          2. re: JaneEYB
                                            smtucker RE: JaneEYB Oct 20, 2010 10:41 AM

                                            Could someone with the earlier version send me a list of the individual chapters via email? This might be useful as I design the threads. Many thanks in advance.

                                          3. mebby RE: smtucker Oct 20, 2010 10:43 AM

                                            Just got World of Food from the library yesterday and it looks great -- I've marked a ton of recipes already. I love her writing style as well -- the headnotes make great reading on their own.

                                            Also, for anyone who's interested, she does have a quick duck confit recipe in this book that takes 2-7 days but only keeps for a week. I'm personally intimidated by that type of cooking, but will delight in reading along with all you culinary overachievers.

                                            1. Bada Bing RE: smtucker Oct 20, 2010 11:58 AM

                                              I thought I'd add a general interest tip for list-members. I've spent a rather absurd amount of time ascertaining where I can come by goodly quantities of duck fat. If you live in a large city, or a foodie college town, you might find it in bulk locally. But I've arranged with a local foodservice wholesaler to buy a case with three 3lb. tubs for $45. The equivalent amount shipped from D'Artagnan would be over 20 7oz packages totaling $150, plus $30 for shipping. In this case, I'm splitting the bounty with a friend.

                                              The product is Maple Leaf Farms duck fat (manufacturer product code is 003654700).

                                              A confit begun around now won't be optimal until December, unfortunately, but that's the problem with our COTM schedule and this old "slow" food!

                                              5 Replies
                                              1. re: Bada Bing
                                                buttertart RE: Bada Bing Oct 20, 2010 12:02 PM

                                                That's a deal and a half!
                                                Re World of Food - I fell asleep wishing I had known about her peach and blackcurrant dessert when the peaches were good.

                                                1. re: buttertart
                                                  roxlet RE: buttertart Oct 20, 2010 01:13 PM

                                                  There's always next year! But where do you find blackcurrants?

                                                  1. re: roxlet
                                                    buttertart RE: roxlet Oct 20, 2010 01:24 PM

                                                    It uses jelly or sieved jam - but I've seen them occasionally in the greenmarkets in the city in midsummer. It seems whatever blight they were causing/blamed for causing is over.

                                                    1. re: buttertart
                                                      dkennedy RE: buttertart Oct 22, 2010 06:12 PM

                                                      Whoever came up with the COTM club concept is a genius! It is by far the best way to decide if a cookbook is worth buying, using, or just to get re-inspired to cook. I tried to spark the interest of my local monthly book club (the members of which are all dear friends) to review a cookbook one month as a break from our usual fiction book, and they all but laughed me out of the room. I am so glad to have a place to share my passion for cooking and reading recipes, even if it is not in person. I am especially excited about this month's selection because I have had SW France on my shelf since 1986 and I have only made two recipes out of it. I can't wait to hear about everyone else's favorites and why they love them so I can get motivated.

                                                      1. re: dkennedy
                                                        buttertart RE: dkennedy Oct 23, 2010 04:48 PM

                                                        I can't remember any more exactly how it came about, but it is fun, and I'm in the same boat with SW France so it will be great to be motivated to get into it. World of Food is also very interesting. And the baking books for Nov-Dec will be a treat too.

                                              2. greedygirl RE: smtucker Oct 24, 2010 10:18 PM

                                                I had a good luck through the Food of South-West France last night and I remain intimidated, I'm afraid. All of the recipes (I have an old edition) seem really complex and time-consuming. I'm hoping to be inspired by the threads though - I've been wanting to make cassoulet for ages!

                                                10 Replies
                                                1. re: greedygirl
                                                  oakjoan RE: greedygirl Oct 24, 2010 11:10 PM

                                                  gg: If you make the marinade for the pork spareribs (I use boneless), you'll be in heaven....even without the dripping ham fat, etc.

                                                  I'm also going to try the chicken liver leek and apple salad. It's not that big a deal and it sounds delicious even though she apparently has bumped it from her new edition.

                                                  I also have the old edition. Am going to check out the revamped edition at my local library.

                                                  Do you have World of Food?

                                                  1. re: oakjoan
                                                    dkennedy RE: oakjoan Oct 25, 2010 01:17 PM

                                                    Hi Oakjoan,

                                                    I am wondering if you can tell me if you 've had more success with grilling the ribs or roasting them in the oven. Mine are marinating right now...

                                                    1. re: dkennedy
                                                      oakjoan RE: dkennedy Oct 25, 2010 11:52 PM

                                                      dk: I have never roasted them, but I have done them on top of the stove in a cast-iron pan. I must confess that I don't use regular spareribs anymore since I've discovered the boneless ones at COSTCO. I usually use these. The grilled ones are just fabulous!

                                                      I don't what it is about the marinade - fennel, bay leaves, sage, garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper...I'm probably leaving something out, but you have the book, so...

                                                      1. re: oakjoan
                                                        greedygirl RE: oakjoan Oct 26, 2010 12:01 AM

                                                        I'm confused about boneless spare ribs and how you can possibly get them. Are they really boneless slices of shoulder or pork belly, I wonder, aka country-style ribs?

                                                        1. re: greedygirl
                                                          dkennedy RE: greedygirl Oct 26, 2010 08:14 AM

                                                          The recipe does reference country style ribs.

                                                          1. re: greedygirl
                                                            Gio RE: greedygirl Oct 26, 2010 08:47 AM

                                                            We buy "boneless pork spare ribs" because they're meatier and more flavorful than other cuts. They make delicious barbecue with sauce. I suspect they may be slices of pork belly because there's a noticable layer of fat...(just what I need, right?) Although I don't mind picking on a bone, ot two, I'd rather use a knife and fork.

                                                            1. re: greedygirl
                                                              oakjoan RE: greedygirl Oct 26, 2010 01:12 PM

                                                              gg: Sorry I can't be of more help. I get these "ribs" at COSTCO. They look just like very meaty spareribs sans bones. Dunno if COSTCO has invaded GB yet. I've never seen then anywhere else. I'm sure country-style spareribs, any other spareribs, or even pork chops, would be good subs. The rub/marinade is also good on chicken.

                                                              1. re: oakjoan
                                                                dkennedy RE: oakjoan Oct 28, 2010 08:10 PM

                                                                So I made the spareribs last night for dinner and my H and I loved them with a couple of caveats. I agree, the marinade is quite magical. I will def. try a different cut of meat next time, the spareribs were very fatty and a bit difficult to cut. Country style ribs is the way to go. I will report again when I have tried them with another cut of meat.

                                                                I was less impressed with the oil used to baste the ribs while they are cooking. I think next time I will heat the oil and add the fennel, sage, thyme, bay, mint etc and allow them to sizzle up, then discard the herbs, and allow the oil to marry while it cools.

                                                                I will use this oil to finish the dish just before serving, along with uncooked fresh herbs, grey salt, and lemon. Then I think the recipe will be perfect.

                                                                BTW, I served it with Screaming Hot Smashed Potatoes, a perfect accompaniment.

                                                                1. re: oakjoan
                                                                  dkennedy RE: oakjoan Oct 28, 2010 08:11 PM

                                                                  oops, are the way to go!

                                                                  1. re: dkennedy
                                                                    oakjoan RE: dkennedy Oct 29, 2010 09:15 PM

                                                                    Weirder than weird! I made them last week and also served with those spuds.

                                                                    PS: I never make the oil baster.Maybe I made it once.

                                                      2. The Dairy Queen RE: smtucker Oct 25, 2010 05:17 AM

                                                        Picked up my copy of of WOF yesterday. Still waiting for the other to arrive. Ironically, in a month when we also have a "parallel" BCOTM going, the recipes that most appeal to me in WOF are desserts.

                                                        Anyway, I have a question about the "Quail with Sage and Green Grapes" on page 201, 1988 edition. Step 2 of the recipe calls for peeling, washing and shredding potatoes. Perhaps I'm missing something, but I don't see potatoes listed among the ingredients required. She does refer to the quail being presented on top of a potato pancake, but doesn't seem to refer to any specific recipe.

                                                        Any ideas how many and what kind of potatoes she's referring to? Is there another recipe in the book I'm supposed to be consulting? Perhaps the grated potato cakes on page 302?


                                                        16 Replies
                                                        1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                          jen kalb RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 25, 2010 07:15 AM

                                                          I saw that gap too - I wonder if there is an errata locaiton for this cookbook?

                                                          1. re: jen kalb
                                                            The Dairy Queen RE: jen kalb Oct 25, 2010 07:24 AM

                                                            Or, maybe she's clarified it in a more recent edition of the book?


                                                            1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                              jen kalb RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 25, 2010 09:15 AM

                                                              the gap was noted in the more recent edition of the book.

                                                              1. re: jen kalb
                                                                The Dairy Queen RE: jen kalb Oct 25, 2010 09:16 AM



                                                                1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                                  dkennedy RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 25, 2010 04:01 PM

                                                                  I have the 1983 edition and on page 118 the recipe for Sarlat Potato Cake would work nicely with this quail recipe. Let me know if you need me to paraphrase the recipe, or if it is included in the later additions. BTW, for an elegant presentation, adapt this tcipe to indiv potato cakes using a ring mold or a hollowed out tuna can.

                                                                  1. re: dkennedy
                                                                    dkennedy RE: dkennedy Oct 25, 2010 04:07 PM

                                                                    The quail recipe is not in my edition. If it is spectacular, maybe you could post the recipe?

                                                                    1. re: dkennedy
                                                                      dkennedy RE: dkennedy Oct 25, 2010 05:01 PM

                                                                      Re 1983 edition:

                                                                      OK, I feel like I am talking to myself at this point ,what with writing three entries in a row, but I am going through my copy of the book (which I have had since 1985) and it is taking a while to jog my memory. Above, I referenced the Sarlat recipe on p. 118 and then I referenced the ring mold technique, which now realize is described in detail on p 120-121.

                                                                      The Potato, Celery Root, and Corn Pancakes on p. 120-121 are amazing. My notes in the margin tell me I first discovered this recipe on Valentine's day,1998, which was my last V Day san kids. I remember making it for my husband in our Russian Hill apartment right after discovering I was pregnant. Fond memories.

                                                                      t is a remarkable dish and I would encourage all of you to try it. If you are having an intimate gathering for Thanksgiving, this would make an impressive side dish.

                                                                      I remember making this recipe for my relator, and friend,

                                                                      1. re: dkennedy
                                                                        The Dairy Queen RE: dkennedy Oct 25, 2010 05:29 PM

                                                                        Thanks, dkennedy. I will definitely post the recipe if it's outstanding. Would you like me to post it sooner?

                                                                        P.S. what a sweet story about Valentine's Day!


                                                                        1. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                                          dkennedy RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 25, 2010 05:46 PM

                                                                          Dear DK,

                                                                          I don't want you to go through all the effort unless it is a must try. My edition has a grilled quail recipe which has you butterfly the quail, marinated it with Herbs de la Garrigue then grill over grape vine cuttings - yum!!!! Maybe your's is the updated version?

                                                                          1. re: dkennedy
                                                                            The Dairy Queen RE: dkennedy Oct 26, 2010 01:37 AM

                                                                            Must be, though, this particular quail recipe calls for stuffing them with a mixture of juniper berries, corriander seeds, white peppercorns, salt, and slivered fresh sage then browning and cooking them in a skillet, to which the grapes eventually get added.

                                                                            I have to say, if I can't find the answer to many "how many" and "what kind" of potatoes question, I will probably just pass over this recipe. I think I will look on Wolfert's website for it. Upon closer review of the recipe, the potatoes seem to be an integral part of the recipe (there are 4 cooking steps, 2 of which discuss how to prep and cook the potatoes) and I don't want to botch it as quail are hard to come by here. My husband doesn't love the small game birds and if I can't ensure a home run, I think I'm better off trying a different recipe. Maybe I'd be better off with pheasant or rabbit?

                                                                            There's only one other quail recipe "Quail in red peppers" in my edition of the book.


                                                                  2. re: The Dairy Queen
                                                                    oakjoan RE: The Dairy Queen Oct 26, 2010 01:22 PM

                                                                    TDQ: My copy of WOF is the first edition, published in 1988 without the potatoes being mentioned in the quail recipe. However, there is a potato cake recipe in the book, on p. 302. Sounds like it'd work in the quail recipe. She even says it's great to sop up juices.

                                                                    If you decide to skip the quail recipe, there's a good rabbit recipe on p. 207 of my edition...it's flavored with capers and green olives. I've recently come back to capers because of some recipes in Ottolenghi's Plenty.

                                                                    1. re: oakjoan
                                                                      The Dairy Queen RE: oakjoan Oct 26, 2010 01:33 PM

                                                                      I will have a look at that, oakjoan.

                                                                      Thank you!


                                                                      1. re: oakjoan
                                                                        LulusMom RE: oakjoan Oct 27, 2010 11:19 AM

                                                                        Olives and capers - two of Lulu's favorite foods. If anyone has the book with this recipe in front of them, care to paraphrase? Many thanks!

                                                                        1. re: LulusMom
                                                                          oakjoan RE: LulusMom Oct 27, 2010 10:25 PM

                                                                          LulusMom: If you like I'll be glad to send it to you via email. It's a bit daunting to paraphrase. My email is in my profile.

                                                                          1. re: oakjoan
                                                                            LulusMom RE: oakjoan Oct 28, 2010 03:40 AM

                                                                            thanks oakjoan. I've emailed you.

                                                                2. re: jen kalb
                                                                  The Dairy Queen RE: jen kalb Oct 26, 2010 01:55 AM

                                                                  Well, there's this errata section of Wolfert's website, but it only notes one correction, and it's not for either of this month's books.



                                                              2. Gio RE: smtucker Oct 27, 2010 10:17 AM

                                                                My copy of WOF arrived yesterday and it's the 1988 first edition. I guess we're going to be cooking in several decades with this one. I wonder just how different the recipe entries are from one edition to another...

                                                                1 Reply
                                                                1. re: Gio
                                                                  jen kalb RE: Gio Oct 27, 2010 10:50 AM

                                                                  WOF was reprinted only, I think. I dont think it was revised when reissued later.
                                                                  Her only books that I know of that have been revised were Mediterraean Cooking and Southwest France

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