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where to eat girolles (chanterelles) in Paris?

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I just rang La Soupiere to discover to my chagrin that it hs closed. I was wondering if anyone knew of a restaurant that was now (October 2010) serving a dish with girolles (chanterelles) in it.....?
cheers
Cas

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  1. They're pretty much everywhere in the markets and groceries right now -- I'd have a wander and read some menus, then make a reservation based on what you see.

    1 Reply
    1. re: sunshine842

      by the way -- I wasn't intentionally being obtuse -- seasonal specialties tend to not show up on online menus, because of the short tenure of the ingredient....

    2. I wouldn't worry. A couple of weeks ago they were so ubiquitous that I was consciously trying to avoid them. Too much of a good thing etc.

      4 Replies
      1. re: mangeur

        sigh. we never see them in Australia, and I was going to buy some in the markets but my wife freaked out....:/ Any concrete suggestions would be great, especially near 1st arrondissement. I found one mention already to check out:

        http://www.libertylondongirl.com/2010...

        anyway, all input welcome :)

        1. re: casliber

          "Any concrete suggestions would be great, especially near 1st arrondissement."

          La Regalade St. Honore was using them in several dishes, both entrees and plats. As I remember last visit, so was Frenchie. And Spring. The latter two are difficult bookings, but you can always try for a cancellation.

          1. re: mangeur

            I had a nice dish of girolles with a poached egg at La Regalade St. Honore, but that was last month. Perhaps it's still on the menu.

            1. re: Nancy S.

              thanks all, I wandered around and asked at a few places last night but no luck. I did eat ceps though at La Table du Palais Royal at 8 rue de Beaujolais which was very very nice. My wife said she had the best pasta she's ever tasted.....but back on topic. I'll ask :a Regalade today and cross my fingers....

      2. It's actually pretty hard to get good girolles in France -- the small, fresh, slightly elastic ones, properly cooked and seasoned. Severeal renowned restaurants fail at it miserably, because they are not committed to serious sourcing and careful seasoning.

        I will exho everyone's opinion that the Régalades are great places for it. In general, the whole Constant connection is good with girolles -- see Violon, Régalade, but also l'Ami Jean.

        I don't think it is full on girolles season, that said. There are many on the market of those tasteless big chanterelles, but nothing good can be done with those, except maybe a purée to thicken a sauce. It's really the end, as girolles happen before the other mushrooms -- they really are a summer thing and, as those who were in Paris this weekend noticed, it's not summer anymore.

        8 Replies
        1. re: souphie

          "those tasteless big chanterelles, but nothing good can be done with those, except maybe a purée to thicken a sauce. "

          Interesting take. I actually prefer chanterelles to girolles which to me lack chanterelles' luxurious and sensuous mouthfeel. That said, I am more familiar with local (California) chanterelles since I am more often served girolles in France than chanterelles. .

          1. re: mangeur

            There may be a misunderstanding here. I have a hunch Souphie, by "tasteless big chanterelles", means those large, soggy girolles that are better left alone.

            Girolles are the fleshy yellow ones and 'chanterelles grises' are related to them, roughly the same shape but not so fleshy, thinner and slightly elastic, brown or grey on the top and yellow or light brown below the cap. They may be described as halfway between girolles and trompettes-des-morts. They can be very good too (actually sometimes tastier than girolles which take in too much humidity and are no good when they're large), but they are seldom seen on markets. Hence my supposition. Souphie correct me if I'm wrong.

            What makes things confusing is that all those mushrooms belong to the chanterelle family and may be referred to as chanterelles. Which means that girolles are chanterelles but chanterelles grises are not girolles.

            1. re: Ptipois

              I'm not sure. What I meant is, really good girolles are small mushrooms whose shape indeed is not like trompettes at all. They are fresh and profoundly flavorful and slightly elastic yet tender. The big ones, same yellow-ish colour, trompette-like shapes, are not as tasty and not as firm. The former are almost impossible to find on French markets. They're easy to find in Germany, where they're called Pfifferlinge.

              1. re: souphie

                Both names officially refr to the mushroom Cantharellus cibarius. The ones in the market looked pretty orange to me and exactly like I have seen in my mushroom books for years. ANyway, apparently La Regalade St. Honore has them (I rang and asked and booked for lunch today) so we'll see :))

                1. re: souphie

                  They're not different mushrooms at all, they are the same species, only the ones you like are the small, young baby ones, and the big soggy ones are just the grown-ups. They would be called Pfifferlinge just the same in Germany but I bet no one would dare to sell them on a market. They'd rather send them to France, as is usually the case (most girolles sold on Paris markets are from Eastern Europe).

                  What I was referring to was the difference between two related mushrooms: Cantharellus cibarius (which is the girolle) and Cantharellus tubiformis (the other one I described), which is more commonly known as chanterelle (or chanterelle grise, chanterelle en tube, etc.). This one is sometimes found on markets but since it is very fragile it is more readily available from the wild.
                  Considering the fact that the two species are related and appear at roughly the same time in the woods (tubiformis is slightly more autumnal), it is less misleading to refer to the more popular Cibarius type as girolle, its main vernacular name.

                  Take me to the woods and I'll show you the difference!

                  Trompettes-des-morts (which are Craterellus species) are a completely different affair, though again they are related to the chanterelle genre.

                  1. re: Ptipois

                    Funnily enough, the 'Cantharellus' tubaeformis has now been moved to the genus Craterellus:

                    http://www.speciesfungorum.org/Names/...

                    I went there and they'd run out. As my daughters weren't interested in anything on the menu we left. I ended up just going to Galeries Lafayette and buying a few, frying up and cooking up with pasta - they were okay, very mild. Interesting comparing with other mushrooms. I still don't get how they are supposed to smell or taste like apricot - unless it is a subconscious colour association or something......
                    Cas

                    1. re: casliber

                      Interesting. Still a cantharellacea though, therefore a chanterelle. Talk about angels and hairpins...

                      "I still don't get how they are supposed to smell or taste like apricot - unless it is a subconscious colour association or something......"
                      When you pick small young specimens directly from the soil and the day is not too damp (which means the mushrooms are moist but not soaked), you immediately know why they have that reputation. The fragrance may even help you locate the babies. On a market stall, the smell is all gone.

                      1. re: Ptipois

                        In Paris now. My daughter had a mushroom dish today that included a variety of mushrooms,including girolles. We were at Le Reminet. Overall I thought our meals were fantastic and the service very warm and personable. So far my favorite meal on this trip.

          2. Recently had a girolles & sweetbreads sauté special at l'Atelier. Mushrooms were good, sweetbreads were just ok (they were itty bitty bits that get a bit too cooked IMHO). The girolles where the young, little ones that are tasty (not the fleshy old ones). On a bit of a 'shroom tangent, the cepe sauté was TDF and they are doing a spaghetti w/ white truffle if you have the euros.

            3 Replies
            1. re: chickenluv

              "l'Atelier"
              Which Atelier? It's like saying you had dined at a place called Chez Something. :-)

              1. re: Parigi

                sorry... L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon.
                The one in Paris
                Not the one in Vegas :P

                1. re: chickenluv

                  Or the one (and only) in Arles, I see. Merci.