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Oct 14, 2010 07:03 AM

Le Court Bouillon; traditional cuisine

I know, I know, everyone finds classical cuisine boring, but if you get a hankering for it done properly in a pleasant setting at an affordable price, you could do much worse. This place gets almost no press, perhaps because of its hidden location on Rue du Theatre in the 15th. I found it by renting an apt. across the street about a year ago and have been back perhaps 5 times since. The chef is classically trained at places like Taillevent, Plaza Athenée, etc. and Mme runs the front of the house with friendly competence. The tiny ravioli de Royans are exceptional examples of creamy, cheesy goodness; the côte de veau is excellent and can be ordered for 1 or 2 people. Mme L. loves the grilled gambas served over a risotto with a sauce de crustacé. Desserts are usually seasonl fruit tartes, yesterday was fig, and classic millefeuilles.

Complaints? to me the wine list is a little shallow...only 2 red Burgundies.

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  1. Wow, they have a website as well.

    1. "I know, I know, everyone finds classical cuisine boring"
      No they don't.

      4 Replies
      1. re: Ptipois

        Thanks Ptipois, it seems that the preponderance of posts here are related to innovative, creative type places, i.e. Spring, Chateaubriand, Bigarrade, etc. which is perhaps as it should be for "cutting edge" and I enjoy these type places, but traditional cuisine is what keeps me coming back year after year. It would be good to see more bastions of tradition, i.e. Gerard Besson, Michel Rostang and especially lesser lights in that vein such as Le Court Bouillon, Le Gastroquet, etc. reviewed more often. I would bet that you have a treasure trove of such places to share.

        1. re: Laidback

          For those who consider Michelin ponderous and slow, Le Court-Bouillon already has two forks & spoons. It moves to the top of our list for our next visit. Thanks Laidback.

        2. re: Ptipois

          Ptipois, when your busy schedule permits, would you please list a few good traditional cuisine places that are more affordable than Besson, Rostang, etc.?

          1. re: Laidback

            To be clearer, I was only being the usual French unconstructive commenter, saying that not everyone takes the emphasis on "modernity" applied to food and cuisine seriously. At any rate, I don't. I like all types of cuisine equally as long as they're good, and I don't approve of the guide/hip food critics tendency to bash and demote everything that looks like traditional French food when it does not have the bistronomique label. I was not particularly wishing to put forward any traditional places.

            But while we're at it, I can mention Chez Dumonet-Joséphine, Gérard Besson, Le Quincy, Moissonnier, Le Severo (steak-frites is traditional), Chez l'Ami Jean (at least partly)... And the absolute miracle, perhaps my favorite restaurant in the whole Western world, Au Lion d'Or in Arcins (Médoc).