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Oct 13, 2010 05:53 AM

New Years Eve in Paris

Hello all,

I will be in Paris with my girlfriend for New Years Eve. If you could please share your recommendations for a nice (but not overly expensive) choice for that evening I would greatly appreciate it. We will be staying in the Latin Quarter if that is any help. Thanks again

- Ira

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  1. I probably should follow up. From what I've gathered from other posts, dining on NYE in Paris can be an ordeal. That being said, if possible I would still appreciate advice on a place that could still offer a special dining experience that evening. I wouldn't mind dining slightly on the earlier side, like around 7:30 or so. Thanks again.

    1. We've been over this ground before.
      Could you check out prior threads and narrow your question down a bit to type, price, expectation?

      7 Replies
      1. re: John Talbott

        Has there been much ground on Chowhound that hasn't been over before?

        1. re: John Talbott

          Of course you're right. I'm sorry. Going over the previous posts, it seems that many of the restaurants do a whole night affair. I guess I am looking for a nicer place that would allow my girlfriend and I the chance to head out onto the streets to see the Eiffel Tower at midnight. I don't mind spending around 150 euros per person. But then again, I'm not quite sure how much a typical NYE meal costs. Essentially, I'm looking for a place with very good food, but one that might take a slightly more relaxed approached to New Years eve. Thanks

          1. re: ira.seligman

            Also, I would add that we would prefer french cuisine, but it does not necessarily have to be traditional. Thanks.

            1. re: ira.seligman

              Had a very good meal last New Year's at Le Petit Bordelais in the 7th ( Philippe is very nice and his staff accomodating. I think the set price meal was 110E/person (wine extra). I would go back if we were there again this year. We ate a bit early, at 7:45, and still had penty of time to head to the Eiffel Tower for the celebrations at midnight.

              1. re: DaTulip

                Thanks. I will be sure to look into it.

                1. re: ira.seligman

                  I spoke to the manager(?), and he said dinner would be 200 euros per person with wine and champagne. This is a little out of my price range, I think. Has anyone confirmed whether Frenchy, Passage 53, or L'Agrume are doing NYE? Unfortunately, CAJ will be closed from the 23rd of Dec until the 4th of January. I also appreciate any other suggestions. Thanks!

                  1. re: ira.seligman

                    A little out of your price dollars, that approaches matching the second most expensive restaurant in the whole US!

          2. This thread is agonizing. The regulars have not responded much because as locals we do not eat out on NYE and would not advise it.
            I was hoping other visitors to Paris could help you, mais bon…
            If it is not too late for you do so, my advice would be to cancel your hotel and try to rent a studio with a kitchen. On D Day, get foie gras and reserve a seafood platter from the market and then pig out and drink bubbly with your GF on NYE. Much cheaper and so so much more enjoyable.

            28 Replies
            1. re: Parigi

              This is what my wife and I will be doing on NYE. We have made a booking at Le Grande Cascade for 30 Dec, and will be spending NYE feasting on food and wine picked up from the market, before hitting the streets together...

              1. re: 91010

                I wish this was an option. It will be my girlfriend's first trip to Paris and she would like to go out. I can't say I really blame her. We are not locals and trips to Paris (especially on New Years) may be few and far between...

              2. re: Parigi

                "This thread is agonizing. The regulars have not responded much"
                Indeed, who in his right mind would spend 1000 E on crappy champagne and dinner to have cherry bombs in Metro entrances and burning cars and go out on the C-E.
                As I've said too many times, get some caviar from Petrossian, some foie gras from the Galeries, some bubbly from Lavina, some oysters from your local guy (who will shuck them and put them in a styrofoam thingy if you don't have a platter) and "enjoy," as we say in the 18th.

                1. re: John Talbott

                  I just want to say that I came to this board for genuine advice. As I mentioned, my girlfriend and I would like to have a nice dinner out for NYE. I was hoping someone could provide a recommendation for a restaurant that would provide quality food in a relaxed atmosphere at a price that wasn't exorbitant. I discovered on other threads, and now "agonizingly" on this one, that this is not what locals do. I'm sorry my plans do not conform with those of Parisian locals. All I was hoping for was some assistance with my plans as I generally respect the opinions of those on this board.

                  1. re: ira.seligman

                    Completely sympathizing with Ira's situation, my husband and I just last night were flirting with the concept of celebrating a major milestone in Paris, inviting long standing friends from home and including newer French friends. Situating the anniversary party is not a problem. But how to entertain the visitors several days later on New Years Eve is quite a different story. An apartment is the obvious solution, but I'm not sure that a NYE party would be welcome in a rental apartment, nor do I prefer taking an apartment or even hosting a party in a rented space. So, Ira, if you come up with some good venues, please do share.

                    1. re: ira.seligman

                      OK Ira, I am one that has ranted on this board a time or two about not dining out on NYE, have done it from the 2 star level on down on previous occassions and usually you just leave such an event feeling you have been robbed, and for the following reasons 1. Prices are jacked up 2. The restaurant will be packed, stretching the limits of what the kitchen and dining room staff are able to handle, so you will often feel like you are getting boned in terms of both cooking quality and service 3. Expect the menu to have lot of items that have been prepared in advance because the place will be packed.

                      Having given this disclaimer, I was in Paris last NYE and decided to eat out, went to an old favorite Aux Deux Canards at:

                      8 Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere
                      01 47 70 03 23
                      Metro Bonne Nouvelle

                      This place was in the Red Guide a few years back with a single knife and fork, they have since dropped it. The guy who runs it is named Gerard, took it over from his mother, he is convival to the extreme, very lively place, traditional foods, really good house made aperitifs.

                      All in last year spent 200e even for two people, included two St Sylvestre menus, I think 65e each, a bottle of 2003 Chateau Montus (Madiran), several of those good aperitifs, Badoit and coffee, was a good night.

                      Here is a link:

                      Call and reserve now if you want to go.

                      1. re: f2dat06

                        I appreciate the advice. I know that going out for dinner on NYE is not ideal, but my girlfriend and I are only going to be in Paris for 3 days (it is part of a larger trip). I have also looked into a restaurant called Au Bon Coin, a little restaurant in the 5th on Rue de la Collégiale. Does anyone have any feedback on that place? Thanks

                        1. re: ira.seligman

                          In the end I was able to convince my girlfriend to skip the NYE dinner. Instead we will be doing the club menu lunch at Michel Rostang on the 30th of December. Also, because I now only have one night out to have dinner out in Paris, I am deciding between Frenchy, L'Argume, and Passage 53. Any tips on which I should pick? Thanks.

                          1. re: ira.seligman

                            Each so different from the other. I am a minority of one who would argue that Frenchie would be a waste of your single evening. It has been a disappointment on our last two visits, and I went so far as to give away our last reservation. (The foody savvy friend who used the booking reported that she didn't understand the buzz either.) L'Agrume, to me, is trying to offer too much for too little. It is an amazing value, but I started finding one or two of the five courses forced, i.e., scrounging to find something that would fit the menu demand while satisfying the cost limitation. I've sadly not been to Passage 53, but if I had only one night in Paris and was determined to visit one of the three, it would get my vote.

                            1. re: mangeur

                              I would second Mangeur's recommendation. I love Frenchie but it isn't the "one" dinner in Paris. I have yet to go to Passage 53 but it is on the list and it's reviews keep getting better - cool location as well.

                            2. re: ira.seligman

                              I would start by checking if any of them is open at those dates.

                              1. re: souphie

                                Do you have any idea if the staff at those places speak english?

                                1. re: ira.seligman

                                  Frenchie and Rostang definitely. I don't remember if the others do.

                              2. re: ira.seligman

                                This might sound odd, but for NYE, if it's not raining, you can see the New Year in with a "picnic" (Champagne, maybe some foie gras or caviar).

                                The Champs Elysee's pretty grim, but the end of the Ile de la Cité, looking down towards the Pont des Arts is really pretty with impromptu fireworks over the Seine, and fun with strangers shouting "Bonne Annee!" and embracing each other.

                                1. re: vielleanglaise

                                  " can see the New Year in with a "picnic" (Champagne...)..."the end of the Ile de la Cité, looking down towards the Pont des Arts is really pretty with impromptu fireworks over the Seine, and fun with strangers shouting "Bonne Annee!" and embracing each other."

                                  Fabulous! Would you like a date?

                                  1. re: mangeur

                                    If one must be out that night, that would be a much nicer spot than the Champs. While you're at it, put a love lock on the bridge, - if there is a single space left by then.

                                      1. re: vielleanglaise

                                        Some year we really should make it a foursome.

                                2. re: ira.seligman

                                  The word on that Au Bon Coin is that it is cheap and good; it's on a long list to try sometime. Good luck.

                                  1. re: Oakglen

                                    I was able to secure a reservation at Passage 53 on the 29th of December - really looking forward to it and will report back. They spoke perfect English which was a great relief. I also made a reservation for the club menu lunch at Michel Rostang, which I have heard great things about.

                            3. re: John Talbott

                              And where does one find these places? I'll be staying in a little apartment in the 18th the week of NYE (next week!) and would love to know where I should be looking for foie gras and bubbly. Not from Paris, so clueless!

                              Google helps for some of these suggestions, but not all and I am, sadly, one of these cretans who does not speak French.

                              (BTW, John, very much enjoying your blog.)


                              1. re: kep

                                The 18th is big. Where are you in the 18th?
                                THe rue Lepic market is excellent and should be open all day on the 24th. On top of rue Lepic at the intersection of rue des Abbesses there is a very good poissonnerie.

                                The maraîcher market on place d'Anvers Friday afternoon is even better, more compact, with - o miracle - lower prices. It has not one but two good poissonneries. It is in the 9th but on the edge of the 18th near Sacré Coeur. It has a stand of foie gras and gésier of the sud-ouest.

                                With the poissonneries, you can order a plateau of oysters, opened, ahead of time, if you don't live far away.

                                1. re: Parigi

                                  According to googlemaps, I will be ~7 minute walk east of Lamarck Metro. So perhaps quite close to the rue Lepic market, though I will not be in town until the 25th. Is it only on Fridays?

                                  To order ahead from the poissonneries - I realize I am probably asking extremely childish questions here, but so it is - Do I simply stop by early in the day and come back? Call ahead somewhere? How does all of this happen?

                                  So _exciting_! Many thanks for your help and suggestions.

                                  1. re: kep

                                    The rue Lepic market is west to the Lamarck station. And you are to the east.
                                    Like all regular markets, unlike the weekly markets, the rue Lepic market is open every day except Sunday afternoon and Monday.
                                    And holidays of course. Expect it to be closed on 25th and 26th.
                                    If you are 7 min east of Lamarck, it is getting a little far from rue Lepic. Sounds as though you were nearer rue Chevalier de la Barre or rue Muller, around there.
                                    Maybe the Friday afternoon place d'Anvers market is better for you, or the regular rue des Martyrs market - on the 9th but near the edge of the 18th.
                                    If you are toward the northern part of the 18th - why not just give us the name of your street? we don't harrass... - the Jules Joffrin-rue du Poteau market may be more convenient for you. It is a regular market, not a weekly market. And you may run into homeboy Talbot...

                                    1. re: Parigi

                                      <face palm> I'm actually *west* of Lamarck. Really - I'm usually quite good at these cardinal directions.

                                      I will be staying at rue Armand Gautier, which appears to be teeny tiny and right between rue Felix Ziem and rue Eugene Carriere.

                                      1. re: kep

                                        Duh! You're 6 min walk to the rue Lepic poissonnerie.

                              2. re: Parigi

                                I'll also be in Paris for NYE. We're doing a home exchange so we'll be in a cute apartment near Les Halles. I like the idea of cooking in. What are some other traditional French NYE foods/meals? Would be fun to do. But afterwards, where do the locals go? I read Montmartre is pleasant, but I imagine the Champs is hideous.

                              3. The wife and I did NYE in Paris '06-'07. We were given a restaurant suggestion for NYE by the hotel front desk. It was terrible. I only recall the first course (a nice onion soup). The second I don't recall. But then we waited for an hour and a half for the main course; which was served minutes before the clock struck twelve. The staff threw confetti around to celebrate and it got all in our food. I had a half bottle of Cliquot with me to crack in front of the Arc de Triomphe that we ended up opening back at the hotel. After we left, cracked the champagne in our room and headed back out to save the evening we raced up the Champs Elysees and found minimal people. We'd expected Time Square. However bars and clubs were open but not packed. It turned out to be a mellow but enjoyable evening sharing stories over drinks with happy strangers.
                                We tried NYE in Rome the next year and in Malaga, Spain the year after. Same thing; nothing was open in Malaga NYE other than a Chinese restaurant that we ended up going to. However there was a wonderful Holiday spirit in the streets and around the days leading up to NYE just not the day of. Take advantage of those.

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