Canelés - simple but not easy - Part V
Segue to warp-speed canelés here. Part V.
The Borg Collective honors its Queen within the Hive Mind. She is the One who is Many. We breach the Unknown with canelé misadventures - without sanction by the "Canelés de Bordeaux" brotherhood. We toy with organic components and appellations beyond geographical restrictions. We search for Drones.
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re: buttertart
We do devour the less than perfect canelés... I'm wondering if friends shudder to see us arrive with our bag of errors?
How will you experience the joy of that one perfect canelé in the batch without taking the plunge from the rowboat?
There is unspeakable satisfaction when the 'one' is achieved with its crisp mahoghany shell and custard center.
souschef's waits like the Zen master to guide us to know the canelé and I am gleefully embracing you to the cult of the canelé.note: I have 'baking with buttertart' on my 2014 calendar.
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re: Cynsa
Cynsa, thanks for the chuckle. Me a Zen master? I just muddled my way through, with the aid of you, Pilinut, and TrewQ (who has once again disappeared).
I must say that I thoroughly enjoyed the experience of baking canelés. The combination of crisp exterior and custardy interior is wonderful. I should get back at it again soon.
Roxlet, have you ever had one?
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I'm going to be making canelés again within the next few weeks and was wondering: the last time I made some was about two years ago, and per canelé protocol did not wash the molds. Should I wash and season them now before using them?
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re: souschef
Hi, Souschef, unless the molds are dusty or smell a bit odd (both unlikely cases, given your standards), I don't think you need to do more than a quick rinse. I have left my molds, already lined with beeswax, in their box for close to a year, then filled and baked in them with no problem.
I'm still in Manila, but have been unable to get in touch with my vanilla source ;-( I hope to be back soon and canelés are on my list!
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re: pilinut
Hi Pilinut, thanks for the response and the vote of confidence. The molds have no smell at all, so I'll just rinse them, as you suggested.
Your "sealing" them with beeswax for storage is a great idea; thanks! I will do the same after the next batch.
I have a friend whose curiosity about canelés was piqued by my description, so I'm going to be sending her some with a friend who will be visiting from Vancouver. I think it will be better to put them in a box rather than plastic, so they don't get rubbery. Do you agree?
Bummer, being stuck in Manila with no vanilla ;)
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re: cannelecrazy
Beeswax has some rather odd properties. I know what you mean by the smoke--I was trying to melt some in a jar in the microwave and it was taking forever to liquefy: then very suddenly, everything melted and started to smoke.
Does the beeswax adhere properly to silicone molds? I started out with silicone and never liked the results, though I don't recall ever waxing them. The copper ones are worthwhile if you get serious about canelés.
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I might just be jumping into the deep end here, because to date this will have been the first post I have ever made on Chowhound.
Currently a student on exchange, I came across these little gems on a tour around Bordeaux and decided that I had to try and make them when I got home. So I looked around some of the stores here for the little molds, and found a shop selling the copper ones for 6€ each, and bought 6... Though, having followed most of this thread and the prior threads about Caneles, it seems I have a really good deal here so I might capitalize on that and get some more... Anyway, I've been paging through your posts, and while I've found a lot of what you've said to be useful, all the information seems fragmented to me... Perhaps there is a summary made by one of you guys that I've overlooked as of yet? Or if there isn't, could one of you guys please post one up? :P Also, I'm not sure if it's already been mentioned yet, but on Paula Wolfert's recipe - she wrote an article about while back specifying that the molds should be ice cold when they go into the oven... Link is here http://www.pastrysampler.com/Question...
Thanks for all the advice you've published so far, and in advance for whatever your reply is... May the god of Caneles shine upon you in the new year to come :)
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re: souschef
Check this link out, wahoo! http://fxcuisine.com/default.asp?lang...
I have still not tried to make these, I'm ashamed to say...having been privileged to try the delightful Cynsa's masterworks, I'm still dragging my feet.
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resurrected for the anticipated arrival of buttertart to the hive. I know for a fact that ms. buttertart is now in possession of six canelé molds and will be returning to her home hive today.
alas, yesterday's batch paled by comparisons and was underbaked due to the time constraint - that was 30 minutes at 450°F and one hour at 375°F. in a rush to meet buttertart for lunch at noon - they were hot from the oven when they were laid before her. The tasting was delayed by lunch and they were sufficiently cooled.›13 Replies-
re: Cynsa
Cynsa, you didn't say how they were, and if herself liked them!
Did Buttertart also get some beeswax? If not, I'll ship her some, just so she does not have another excuse to not join the collective.
Hopefully your resurrecting this thread will also wake up my old friend Q, whom we have not heard from in eons.
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re: souschef
in my haste to be on time at noon, I didn't taste one. only buttertart knows for sure and she's too polite to say... she said she likes them, even underdone. only one of the eight had the desired coloring of the carmelization (the others were blondies) they did crisp as they cooled.
note: having a properly working oven makes the baking much easier
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re: Cynsa
They were divine after lunch and even tasty the next morining. Our dinner company loved them too. Now I see what all the hoohah is about. And yes, I shall make some, at long last. I only have a small lump of beeswax -- about 1/8 cup -- how much will I need? I presume I can get some at honey vendors in the greenmarkets here?
I heart cynsa v much! It was wonderful to meet you.-
re: buttertart
won't require much beeswax, melt and thin with oil or butter. very lightly brush the molds. do read pilinut's posts.
beexwax from a honey vendor will have a lovely note of honey in the nose ... mine comes from a friend's bees.
- kindred spirits. completely comfortable - sharing past lives : )Rereading these threads is a tale of our community. It's rather charming, don't you think? Certainly an engaging read.
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re: Cynsa
Welcome, buttertart! We have awaiting your arrival for two lightyears, and are all the happier that you have not forgotten us.
Though I admit to having slacked off on posting, I did manage to make a batch of canelés a couple of months back, after many months of leaving my already lined molds in a drawer. I consulted my notes, reviewed these threads, and got excellent results. I believe the stars are aligned to make 2013 a very good year for canelés!
Cynsa, souschef, trewq, lennyk, Wildtowner, karenfinan, and anyone else in the neighboring galaxies, shall we join buttertart on a renewed quest?
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re: pilinut
tim irvine is waiting in the wings, pilinut, and we are on standby for buttertart.
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/8728...
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Here are the first canelés from the new stove with the convection oven. :^) not perfect, but better than before.... I beat them to submission twice as they mushroomed out of the molds, thus the dented sides. A little sweet talk may be better than brute force.
425°F for 30 minutes - 375°F for 30 minutes - 350°F for 30 minutes; then, Impatient Fool that I am, I could wait no longer... -
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Okay. Here goes my report on this afternoon's batch.
One of the best--if not the best--batch yet. I placed the baking sheet in the preheated 425F oven. Had 3 molds in the freezer, 3 not, and when I filled them, I chickened out and left between 1/3 and 1/4 inch headspace. Placed the filled molds on a piece of foil on the hot sheet (like I always do, to avoid spending half an hour cleaning off beeswax). After 15 minutes, I turned the tray, surprised that the batter had barely come up to the top of the mold. After the next 15 minutes, at 375F, still no popovers, no soufflés (!), so I set the timer for another 25 minutes and left the kitchen. After the total of 55 minutes, I turned the molds out on the rack, somewhat dismayed because the canelés were slightly lower in the molds than when I started. But I was soon consoled when I saw the deep, glossy mahogany and the perfectly level tops. (No crater!) Of course, I had to wait before tasting one, but it was worth the wait. The texture leaned a bit more towards custard than cake than I'd have liked, but that's a tiny quibble. (The other quibble is that I can't find my camera-to-laptop cable to post the pictures!)
So it seems that the preheated baking sheet, and possibly the right quantity of egg (approx.110 g.--5 yolks +1 white), might have done the trick. Incidentally, there was no discernible difference in the results from the 3 frozen and 3 not-frozen molds.
Was this luck, or am I finally getting it right? Let's see what happens with the next batch.
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re: souschef
these are pilinut's perfect canelés, I am nibbling as I type this. the best ever.
each nibble makes me want more, pilinut has nailed it with this batch! Success! Kudos to pilinut. :^) ahhh, this is why we do it.
btw, this goes to the top of the list of 'best food today... and of 2011', too.-
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re: Cynsa
Thank you, Cynsa and souschef, but you are both too kind! Honestly, though these are the best I've made yet, and I'd be happy if I could keep them consistent, those of us on this thread know how fickle canelés can be. More to the point, I'd have given up long, long ago if it hadn't been for the company of you guys and the others on this board, and the absolutely invaluable pointers you have been sharing so generously.
For this batch, in particular, I think the pre-heated baking sheet (trewq's trick) might have been a crucial factor. But we all know that before that, there have been souschef's temperature and turning techiniques (hive-inducing as they can be), Cynsa's flour mixes and cake mold experiments, etc., etc.
One thing that does not seem to make much of a difference is the order in which the batter ingredients are mixed, as long as the milk is not hot enough to cook the eggs, and everything is well-incorporated. What seems to be critical, though, is the baking temperature, though there seems to be some difference in opinion on what, exactly, is the right temperature. In my experience, anything above 425F is too high, while anyting below 375F is too low.
Now to see if I can replicate those results. . . (gulp)
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re: pilinut
"What seems to be critical, though, is the baking temperature, though there seems to be some difference in opinion on what, exactly, is the right temperature. In my experience, anything above 425F is too high, while anyting below 375F is too low."
If you mentioned this to a statistician they would tell you to go for the average of 375 and 425, i.e. 400, which BTW is what works best for me.
I'm still waiting for buttertart to jump into the fray.....just in case she imagines I've forgotten !
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re: buttertart
If you have the cakelet pan from W-S give it a whirl. I wish I could avise on aluminium or Mauviels, but I stopped using the aluminium ones before I got the recipe and procedure sorted out. Cynsa seems to be doing really well with the aluminium, which, BTW, are a bit smaller than the Mauviels.
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re: buttertart
Mauviels for perfection; aluminum for the rest of us; cakelets for fun
this batter works well in my oven:
2 cups whole milk
4 Tbl. butter
1 Tbl. vanilla extract
3/4 cup + 1 Tbl. all-purpose flour
2 cups unsifted powdered sugar
1 tsp. sea salt
2 large eggs
2 egg yolks
1/4 cup rum
Stir dry ingredients together: flour, salt, powdered sugar - set aside.
In a small bowl, stir eggs + yolks. Stir lightly beaten eggs into flour mixture with a fork.
Heat milk to 183°F. Add butter pieces to melt; cool to 120°F. Pour into the flour-egg mixture and stir to combine. Strain lumpy batter through fine mesh strainer. Stir in rum + vanilla extract. Refrigerate for 48 hours.
I followed pilinut's instruction for pouring straight melted beeswax into each mold and pouring it out to fill the next mold, then all went into the heated oven on a tray; the excess beeswax collected in a jar for future batches; heated once more and turned upside down to collect excess wax before filling with the batter to bake. This was easy and efficient. My next batch will bake at 400°F for 90 minutes - with 20 minute checks for souffled tops.
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Perhaps our starship has been a vector in the transmission of a virus. Looks like Pim caught it, too:
At least she said that our thread was "madness-inducing", not "maddening". (Am I splitting hairs here?
)Or maybe it's a sign from the heavens (or hell). DH hasn't finished the quart of Clover Organic, and I bought eggs of the same brand earlier this week. . .
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re: Cynsa
In the spirit of solidarity with my dear friend Cynsa (and because I like having someone to bawl to when I mess up) I, too, have a fresh batch of canelé batter sitting in the fridge. Counting down to Monday afternoon.
Souschef, trewq, roxlet, buttertart, Widltowner-- Anyone and Everyone who has ever contemplated this madness--where are you?
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re: trewq
Hey Q,
I really enjoyed your post; had a nice chuckle. Now you know why I say you have a quirky sense of humour.Seeing all those pictures in Pim's blog made me want to make more canelés, so I plan to do so shortly. Notice that she leaves 1/2 inch free at the top, so soufflé is less of an issue, but it does make a smaller confection, and avoids the problem of the base getting too dark. She does get an even coat of beeswax, so I may just try her method of coating the molds.
I hope my molds have not got moldy since it's been a few months since I last used them.
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re: souschef
Do try the pouring method! I find it much faster and easier to control. Just be sure you start with enough melted wax or white oil to fill one-and-a-half molds. And use molds that are uncomfortably warm. (Like trewq, I use gloves. Tongs don't work for me.) I also like to wax the molds as soon as I pop freshly-baked canelés out, saving me the hassle of heating and waxing the molds all over again before I can bake my next batch. It also means one less clean-up of the mess on my cooling rack.
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re: trewq
The virus was dormant. Souschef activated it and mutated it well beyond the power of Tamiflu. And it obviously recurs every couple of months at least. We shall see if the 2011 virus is less virulent, but it looks like Cynsa's most recent bout has not been so easy. I will post my temperatures (and their results) after tomorrow's battle with the canelé virus.
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re: pilinut
Hehe ! I activated it, but have not yet come down with it; nice to just be a carrier. So I guess for 2011 we are going to abandon the Star Trek theme and instead adopt a virus theme? This may well madden Pim. She should sign on here so that we can welcome her into the (virus-ridden) fold !
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re: Cynsa
It's back to square one; pouring beeswax into warmed molds, chill time in the freezer, stirring down the foamy batter — 85 minutes at 475°-425°-375°F with the predictable popover cap; interior is too flan-like, heavy dense custard. :^(
I'm back in the game. Is it the batter or the oven temperatures? Where do I begin again?-
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re: Cynsa
Hmmm. . . too flan-y. My guess is too much liquid or your oven temp is off. When I make flan (all yolks, and in a bain marie) I keep the oven temperature at or below 350F to avoid bubbles in the flan. So by doing the opposite things, i.e., add an egg white and use a higher temperature, maybe you can get the canelés a bit more cake-like(?).
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re: pilinut
In spite of its shortcomings, DH proclaimed this batch the best yet, he prefers the soft custardy flan and this rummy sweetness. Mom's oven is temperamental at best, with soaring temperatures and iffy calibrations. I will add the egg white and lower the temp to 350°F for a longer bake this afternoon since I am striving for a more cake-like interior - will add cake flour to the grocery list, too.
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re: Cynsa
Darn, I'm still looking for a rum whose boozy flavour comes through. I have some Screech from Newfoundland; I think I'll try that next. I think I'll also throw in a bit of chestnut flour into the mix, as chestnuts and rum go well together, and I'm nuts about chestnuts. Yes, I know, I should not change two variables at the same time, but it's time to live a little !
Hey Cynsa, I thought you had your own oven now.
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re: trewq
I normally do experiment with flavours, but to date have not done so with canelés; I've been concentrating on getting the technique right. Now that I have it (I'm not doing any more experimenting using tips others have since posted), I'm going to start experimenting with flavours.
I think chestnut paste would perhaps be too dense, but then again I could just leave out some of the flour. I have not come across chestnut liqueur in years. In Ontario and Quebec we have province-controlled liquor stores, so no competition, hence no variety, but I did find a bottle once. I do have a liquor store right across the street from me, so maybe I'll take a walk and ask.
Maybe passion fruit canelés after ?
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re: souschef
(no oven yet - perhaps by May 2011)
btw, pillinut was so-o-o right. 350°F is too low and today's batch was tough, the innards were better than halfway between flan and cake. unfortunately, they billowed without mercy. I made hot air balloons this afternoon. I am making note of the 5 yolks + 1 white.
Mr. Clean's Magic Eraser makes short work of the cleaning of caramelized bits while the molds are still hot.
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re: Cynsa
Iffy oven? Oh, dear. That's probably it. I have my worst results when the oven acts up. That said, 350F sounds a bit too low. You may end up with tough canelés. I think temperatures between 375F and 425F seem to have worked best for me, and I really do have to watch the oven thermometer to make sure the temps don't stray too far for too long.
BTW, I double checked the melting point of tin (I thought 450F sounded too low), and it is 449.42F. No wonder the makers of tin-lined copper cookware tell one to keep the heat moderate.
http://www.chemicalelements.com/eleme...
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re: pilinut
In one of our threads Q pointed out that the melting point of tin is 450 F. Pim seems to have missed that as she heats the oven to 475 F, then reduces it to 450 when the little blighters go in. I wonder if in 15 minutes the tin would reach that temperature, but I'd rather not find out the hard way.
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I happened to see that these copper Mauviel canele molds are a pretty good price. What is the ideal number of them to bake with?
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re: roxlet
You can get them a bit cheaper here (but some places include shipping, whereas JB Prince does not):
http://www.jbprince.com/professional-...
I bake them 6 at a time, but from the pictures I think Trewq (aka Q) bakes them 12 at a time. Besides, I have only 6 molds.
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re: souschef
As I was thinking of you. Yesterday I was going through some old cookbooks and I came across a recipe for chestnuts in heavy syrup. I know it's not the same as marron glace because of the syrup but it is similar . It was in the gift of southern cooking byEdna Lewis. If you are interested let me know.
I do need to go to Montreal soon.
Q-
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re: souschef
In the book she says she cuts off the outer shell of the chestnuts with a paring knife and boils them in a pot of simmering water for 2 minutes and then peels off the membrane.
Chestnuts in Heavy Syrup, Edna Lewis
2cups sugar
1 1/2 cups water
1/2 vanilla bean
1/4tsp salt
1lb large peeled chestnuts
3Tbs. rum
Boil sugar, water,vanilla bean and salt until sugar is dissolved.
Brisk simmer for 10 minutes
Add chestnuts
Gently simmer for 15 minutes.
Remove from heat
Cover and cool completely
Strain chestnuts and put them into a 1 quart jar
Boil syrup for 10 minutes or until thick
Skim off scum
Stir in the rum
Pour hot syrup over chestnuts, screw on jar lid tightly and invert jar until cooled -
re: souschef
so I've been lurking on this delightful thread...never in a million years would I attempt Canelas, but so enjoyed these exploits. I had to comment on Edna Lewis though. She is...just the best when it comes to southern cooking with depth of flavor and respect for ingredients. Pretty far removed from canelas, though. I highly recommend checking her out.
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Cynsa and Trewq (aka Q) seem to have disappeared off the face of the planet. I hope that they are both well and still baking canelés.......or madeleines.....or.....
Please check in both of you.
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re: souschef
Souschef,
"disappeared off the face of the planet"It's been a while. Which planet? Does a planet really have a face? :)
I made egg nog canneles for the holidays, it came out weird. I used egg nog instead of milk. Tossed the whole batch out.
I tried to make marron glace, didn't like it. Sore finger nails. Also they came out hard and chewy. I assumed they aren't suppose to be like that.
We must find a new challenge that doesn't hurt.Q
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re: trewq
"Does a planet really have a face? :) "
Haven't you heard of "the man in the moon" ? i.e. a face !
I suspect that the egg in the nog thickened the canelés too much.
No, marrons glacés are not supposed to be hard and chewy. If you want to try some, check out the ones at Le Maitre Chocolatier in Montreal. I have not tried them, but imagine they are good; they are imported from France, not made in-house. And yes, peeling chestnuts is hard on the hands, and worse if you have delicate finger nails. Did you follow my recipe exactly?
Re a new challenge, have you tried making madeleines yet? They could be a minor challenge, definitely not as difficult as canelés.
Welcome back Q!
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re: souschef
"Haven't you heard of "the man in the moon" ? i.e. a face !"
The moon isn't a planet. That's why they call it a MOON! ;)"Did you follow my recipe exactly?"
Just the finger hurting part.
After a lot of search on the internet, most of the post directed me to the link that Soupbowl posted so I used that one.Madeleines. Not really a challenge.
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re: trewq
"The moon isn't a planet. That's why they call it a MOON! ;)"
Ah, OK, by MOON you mean cheeks, but not a face !
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"After a lot of search on the internet, most of the post directed me to the link that Soupbowl posted so I used that one." (This sentence makes me think you are Québecoise).Glad you tried it, proving me right :)
Try my method; someone else did and it worked for them. Get your big, strong hubby to peel the chestnuts for you.
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Yup, madeleines are not really a challenge. But then nothing is really a challenge for the Q continuum !
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Its amazing the number of people who have interests in these portable creme brulee's
I've had good success with the Wolfert recipe using 2" tall silicone molds.
The trick is to butter the molds well, freeze them before pouring the batter in, also make sure to stir the batter before pouring.The other important tip is to not use a sheet, instead put the molds on a grill or rack so the heat can hit the silicone more directly.
With more direct heat the butter and sugar in the batter will caramelize better for the crust.In my oven I go for 425f for 1 hour 10min or so, they usually deflate to normal height around 40mins
at which point I rotate the rack AND put a piece of foil over the molds so the tops don't overcook, this helps a lot. You can figure out the best time to do this with your oven.
Let them cool carefully so the crust will harden and not crumple. -
Thanks, Trewq and Souschef, for your suggestions. I will make notes and incorporate them the next time I make canelés -- which won't be for at LEAST 2-3 weeks, since DH & I have eaten two dozen of them now. That'll kill anyone's canelé cravings for a while!
Trewq, I really suggest that you explore a little in the Parc Lafontaine area, esp the streets to the west of the park. There are some great little neighbourhood restaurants and shops. Ah, Mile End - I used to live there (St. Viateur & Clark) back when it was an up-and-coming place (before mass gentrification). Also, if you've never explored Bernard Ave. in Outremont (specifically west of Park Ave.) - that is kind of a food mecca (including Bilbouquet Ice Cream - Montreal's closest thing to Paris' Berthillion). And Laurier St., east of St. Laurent Blvd, which includes a couple of French bakeries and Chez L'Evecque (a "classic" French bistro, with no attempt to serve "nouvelle" cuisine). There are also some funky new eateries in & around the gay village, and you could always snoop around Little Italy (which could be combined with the Jean Talon market visit). BTW, the 2 markets are not near each other -- that would be too much goodness in too close proximity!!! -
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Hi, folks! I'd like to add to the canelés discussion. In a moment of madness, I decided that I wanted to try these little beauties. I have just finished my 1st, 2nd, and 3rd batches. Here's what I've done:
Equipment: Cadco professional convection oven; Paderno 1.5" silicone molds sprayed with Pam, ordinary baking pan, Vitamix 5200 for mixing batter.
Recipe: Roux's recipe -- EXCEPT that I used 2.5 cups of fresh whole milk instead of mixing water and milk powder. Filled molds 1/4 inch from the top of the mold (last batch to tops).
Aging of batter: In fridge for 72 hours (I meant to bake after 48 hours, but I was too busy!)
Baking times/temps (turned pan every 15 min):
Batch 1 - 15 min @ 425F, then 60 min @ 350F, then turn oven off and let sit for 15 min.
Batch 2 - 15 min @ 425F, then 45 min @ 325F, then turn oven off and let sit for 15 min.
Batch 3 - 15 min @ 425F, then 45 min @ 300F, then turn oven off and let sit for 10 min.
Results:
Batch 1 -- Colour - slightly too dark, overcooked interiors, thick, tough crust.
Batch 2 -- Colour - good, good but not really creamy interiors, crust thicker than I wanted.
Batch 1 -- Colour - slightly too light, creamy interiors, crust not too thick, but not quite crispy enough.
Details & Questions
No skin formed on my batter.
Popover effect -- I didn't get a lot of it; most were more "domed" than popover-ish. Only the last batch, which I filled all the way to the top (trying to use up the batter!) did the popover thing. Does aging the batter longer cause the eggs to deflate enough to prevent the popover effect?
Problem -- how to get rid of the rounded bottoms so that my little babies will sit up straight?!
NO migration of the batter -- it stayed at the bottom of the molds 100% of the time.
No misshapen ones, some horizontal "channels" in along the exteriors (esp. batches 2 & 3).
End product -- batch 3 was acceptable, if a little tough-skinned. Next time I'll keep everything the same except that I'll cook for less time at a slightly higher temp.
Any thoughts from the group?
BTW, I am a born 'n bred Montrealer (now living in the US West) and I miss my city and the FOOD there EVERY minute of every day!!! How nice to see that some of you appreciate the place!-
re: Wildtowner
Welcome, Wildtowner!
I think from what you are saying that you like batch 3 the best except you want it darker and crispier. Maybe if you bake it a little longer that would help. I have baked them for an hour and half to an hour and 45 minutes.
As for the popover effect, it's a mystery, maybe Souschef knows. I think it has to do with the flour egg ratio more then aging.
MONTREAL!!!!!!! What can I say. :)) I will be visiting there soon. Can't wait. Any suggestion?
And it's great to have someone new.-
re: trewq
Trewq,
I'll break this into 2 sections (1. Canelés; 2. Montreal), so that canelé-fans won't have to read through travel recommendations ;^ )
1.Canelés
I can't cook them much longer -- at 90 min, the outsides were burnt and the insides were dried out. Ewww. I might need to play with a slightly higher start temp or same start temp, but leave them longer than 15 min before turning down the oven. I wonder if Souschef has any thoughts on this with his engineer-style attention to detail (love it!).
I wonder whether there is only so much I can do, given the use of silicone molds... but at $20+ for each Mauviel, it'll be a cold day in hell before I buy those from one of the pigs flying by...
I also wonder whether my super-short baking times have something to do with weather issues -- I am baking in the desert, with a relative humidity of 10%. Ottawa, where Souschef bakes, has normal humidity around 45% on a sunny day. So I suspect that my batter cooks and dries out MUCH faster -- plus, I am using a Cadco oven, which is normally at LEAST 25% faster than a regular oven.
2. Montreal
Trewq, it sounds like you've been there MANY times before, so I'm sure I don't need to tell you about things like downtown and the "new & hip" restaurants that the NYTimes writes about.
So, I'll try to keep my recommendations on the topic of food, but not limited to restaurants, and I'll try to suggest things that you might not find in the NYTimes.
Just in case, though, IMHO the best French bakeries in Montreal are (in no particular order):
Duc de Lorraine, Compte de Provence, Patisserie Belge, Patisserie de Nancy, Mamie Clafoutis (they're newer and I haven't been), Patisserie de Gascogne, and Le Fromentier for bread. There are also a bunch of new ones (in the last 4 years) that I don't know at all.
Interesting food stores - "real people" stores as opposed to the "Olive and Gourmando"-type places (of which there are many). Try La Vielle Europe on Boul. St. Laurent (browse for E. European foods, jams, etc.), Adonis Lebanese Market on Sauvé Ouest (the ONLY baclava that I have ever enjoyed, olives, fresh nuts, interesting new foods to experiment with), Atwater Market (the Jean Talon market was mentioned earlier, but I'm an Atwater Market girl because it's more French-oriented with many butcher shops and cheese shops, whereas Jean Talon is more Italian-oriented). I also love the choc. chip bagels at Fairmount Bagel Bakery (don't diss 'em 'till you try 'em - not very sweet, just a few bits of semi-sweet chocolate and some chunks of candied orange peel. I eat 'em plain.). Get out and explore a neighbourhood you've never been to (esp on the French side) -- there are remarkably few places in Montreal that are unsafe. That's one of it's greatest attributes. There are many commercial streets in Outremont, and near Parc Lafontaine that one can explore, enabling you to "discover" your own treasures. Sigh. I miss it.-
re: Wildtowner
Have you considered placing a tray with water on the bottom of the oven? It would raise the ambient humidity.
Re Montreal, one thing that should be required reading is the Mile End Tour thread in CH submitted by moh, who is sadly no longer with us. Some great recommendations there.
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re: Wildtowner
In your descriptions the second Batch 1 is really batch 3, right? Since it is closest to what you are trying to achieve, I suggest that you stay with those temperatures but bake longer at the lower one. Mind you, I have no experience with silicone molds. The copper ones are not $20+ each; they are $17.20 from J.B. Prince in NYC. Once you get to their site do a search on "cannele" to find them.
The horizontal channels tell me that you are getting migration of the batter; this is also confirmed by the pale wells. It is also causing the rounded bottoms. I suggest that you check them after 30 minutes, and if they have risen out of the pan at all take them out and leave them till they settle down; that's what I do.
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re: souschef
"Have you considered placing a tray with water on the bottom of the oven? It would raise the ambient humidity."
When I bake bread, I toss in a few ice cube after fifteen minutes or so and close the door quickly to add moisture. Yes, I throw them in. :)Have you considered start baking them at 400F for 20 mins and the reducing it to 350F? I think your oven bakes like a convection oven where it cooks faster. If so then you need to reduce your temp. by 25F like you would for a convection oven.
Wildtowner and Souschef,
Thank you for the suggestions. Yes, we go there quite often. The kids enjoy it, well, they're not really kids anymore.
We usually stay in the downtown area. But last year we explored the mile end area. It was fun, sort of like soho. I hope to go to both markets, are they near each other?
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re: Wildtowner
Hi, Wildtowner, and a belated welcome to the wonderful world of canelés! I admire your methodical approach and I'm sure you will enjoy this journey.
I've tried baking with the silicone molds, too, and the problem with them really is getting the crunch in the exterior. I had some extra batter that wouldn't fit in my regular molds recently, so I used my old tiny silicone molds. I remember toasting the resulting mini-canelés after they had come out of the molds and cooled and I think that the toasting did help.
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24-hr batter: Paula Wolfert food processor recipe - makes 42 in the Martha Stewart tea cake pan. crunchy tiny gems with a creamy flan center - a surprise for the Surprise Birthday Party tonight. (no beeswax, just baking spray) 450°F for 15 minutes, 375°F for 30-45 minutes. Simple Easy.
note: I did not strain the batter... smooth as silk.-
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re: bushwickgirl
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/7374...
Controlling the temperature in the individual molds on the pan is problematic - some light, some dark. The molds on the outside caramelize before the center can take on color. I can turn the pan from front to back and shift the position of the baking rack but that's about all. When I baked to 'dark' for 45 minutes, even the very darkest of the cakes were still tasty-caramelized without tasting 'burnt'.
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re: Cynsa
lol - made the PW food processor batter at 10 o'clock last night to be baked at 2 o'clock today while I was chilling the glazed Chocolate Fig cake for 30 minutes... this is too easy. It bakes a crisp shell with the rum-spiked eggy flan centers - much to the delight of tonight's dinner guests who proclaimed that they'd never tasted anything like it - as they reached for another. This batch doesn't have the deep caramelization of a proper canelé - but the shell was crisp and sweet (easy because it's wax-free, with just the standard baking spray)
Next batch is for pilinut to taste.-
re: Cynsa
Such pretty little treats! I await them with baited breath. . . I wonder what the differences in actual results the Wolfert and Hermé-based procedures will yield? Should we do a comparison? (You seem to be getting more consistent results than I get.) I've been planning to get those little molds, too, and it would be interesting to see how the different recipes fare in both the traditional and non-traditional molds.
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re: souschef
Sorry for the long-delayed response! Between visiting family and re-organizing the motley strips of paper that now compose my canelé files, I had lost sight of your question.
I erred in mentioning the Hermé procedure, which actually has the milk (after scalding/boiling and cooling) poured into the other ingredients which have been combined in the order of butter, sugar, eggs, rum, and flour. (Or is it flour then rum?) I've been using a bâtard version: combining butter and eggs with the milk before pouring the lot over the dry ingredients.
I haven't tried the food processor method yet as I abhor the way liquids leak out of the hollow tube which holds the blade. Do you think the results would be affected if I added half the milk to the processor and poured the rest in after straining the egg mixture?
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re: pilinut
I have avoided the food processor method as I don't like the concept of pushing the congealed/coagulated egg through the strainer. Also, there is the question of dismantling and cleaning the machine; much easier to use a wooden spoon.
I don't think your propose procedure will make much difference.
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re: trewq
"So what you're saying is it isn't a strain for you to strain your batter. ;)
I thought pancake batter was suppose to be lumpy."You got it, ma'am! I always thought that one of the constraints with making pancakes was that they were not supposed to be lumpy. But then, I don't make pancakes, which are usually thick, and so lumps would not show as much; instead I make crèpes, which are thin, and lumps WOULD show.
Does straining make a difference? I haven't a clue, and don't intend to find out - playing with all the permutations of canelé-making has been enough of a strain.
In his "French Laundry Cookbook" Thomas Keller says that in his restaurant no liquid is transferred from one container to another without being strained.
BTW Q, have you been to Montréal recently?
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re: trewq
yes, lumpy pancake batter is good - I like pancakes light and fluffy.
as to the required straining that I have ignored... I would strain if there were cooked or congealed white threads of egg bits in the batter - but I've seen no evidence in the Wolfert food processor batter - so I don't strain.
— the canelé batter rests for 24-48 hours, what other recipes call for 'resting'? do you rest clafouti batter?
what do you think of this interior? http://www.dailycandy.com/philadelphi...
would freezing the waxed molds before adding the batter make a difference?
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re: Cynsa
Cynsa,
That is what the interior of my canneles looked like. Do your's look different?
I have wondered about the freezing of the molds also. I've tried both and have not noticed any difference.Souschef,
I will be in Montreal in a few weeks. :) Any recommendations for sushi and other restaurants?-
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re: trewq
I tried freezing the molds way back when, but after the canelés turned out fine I did not try again.
Q: You should go to the Quebec board for Montreal restaurants as there are people there with much more knowledge than I, but briefly, sushi in Montreal is not that great. The restaurants I would recommend are Europea (go for the table d'hote), Milos (Greek, but specializes in fish), L'Inconnu., and La Montee de Lait. They have all been discussed at length on that board. You should also go to the Jean Talon market.
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re: trewq
Q, the first two I recommended I have eaten at many times, and have not been disappointed, but avoid the halibut at Milos. If you go to Milos do not miss the tuna "carpaccio" (can't remember what it's called on the menu), the grilled octopus, and the crabcake (the best I have ever eaten).
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re: Cynsa
aha! from October 29 to December 9: Mission accomplished: 24-hour PW food processor canelé batter for Pilinut's baby cakes.
- baked at 425°F for 20 minutes, then at 375°F for 25 minutes, they puffed and rose 1/4-inch above the mold but settled down again at 375° for the finish - a light bake that is crisp and creamy but not caramelized darkly like the previous batch.-
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re: buttertart
it's MS, not W-S - instant gratification for one bite and no waxing of the mold!
I was bemoaning the cleaning and waxing process of the canelé molds to pilinut and she advises rewaxing immediately when removing the canelé while the molds are still warm - then set them aside - ready and waiting for the next batch. I like that.
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re: Cynsa
As the happy recipient of Cynsa's canelé-teacake hybrids, I can say that they were delicious. And so adorably cute that the 4 other chowhounds meeting for lunch "ooooooh-ed" and "aaaaaaah-ed" in admiration. Since (despite 3 broken toes) she had just baked them that morning, they had a crisp golden exterior lightly edged with brown. Like a biscuit with a mutant cake-shortbread interior.
Were they "real" canelés? No. They didn't have the kind of exterior crunch and aerated interior. Were they delicious, unusual teacakes? Goodness, yes, they certainly were! And I would encourage anyone on the board to try them. You could serve such lovely teacakes with pride anywhere, and to anyone.
Thank you, Cynsa! I'm definitely getting those teacake pans myself.
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re: souschef
thanks for the well-wishes, p-b-s... still hobbling about on 7 toes -
the next batch goes in the oven on Saturday the 18th...
note: after the batch for pilinut on Thursday, I baked the remaining batter on Friday for a longer time at 425°F and it caramelized with a crunch. The only difference with the later batch was that I did not add any additional non-stick spray to the tea cake mold - would excess non-stick spray in pilinut's batch retard caramelization?
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Buttertart asked me to post the complete recipe for making canelés, so here it is. I am going to make it as detailed as I can. Pilinut, Trewq, and Cynsa please feel free to point out any errors or omissions.
This recipe will make 12 canelés, using the 2" Mauviel molds.
A conical sieve and a tall plastic jug are not essential, but do make life easy.
The ingredients are based upon Paula Wolfert's recipe. The method of mixing is what is on the CH video "The Perfect Canelé".
700 ml whole milk
7 large egg yolks
140 gm cake flour
245 gm superfine sugar
45 gm unsalted butter, cold
Pinch of salt
2 tsp vanilla
1/4 cup rum"White oil"
Beeswax
Peanut oil
Cut the butter into bits and put it into a mixing bowl. Heat the milk to 183°F and add it to the butter. Whisk till the butter melts. Set aside to cool to tepid. When cool whisk in the egg yolks.In another mixing bowl sift together the flour, sugar, and salt. Mix well with a wooden spoon. Add the milk/egg mixture, stirring to work out the lumps as you do so. Stir till smooth. Add the vanilla and rum. Stir to combine. Strain through a fine-mesh conical sieve into a tall plastic jug. Cover and refrigerate 48 hrs.
Preheat the oven to 400°F, with a baking sheet on the middle shelf. Cover the baking sheet with foil, to make cleanup easy.
Put a small quantity (2 tbsp) of beeswax into a small metal container and heat over low heat till melted. CAUTION: beeswax is flammable. Add an equal quantity of peanut oil or butter, and swirl to combine till dissolved. Keep on very low heat.
Put a mold into the oven for 10 seconds. You do not want to heat it up, just take off the chill. Using a silicone brush, apply a thin layer of white oil to the inside of the mold. It should not be a thick layer obliterating everything. Leave upside down on a paper towel. Repeat with the rest of the molds.
Give the batter a good stir with a spoon. A skin may have formed on the top, with sludge on the bottom. Stir well till homogeneous. Pour batter into each mold, leaving 1/8 inch of space on top.
Remove the baking tray from the oven. Put the filled molds on the baking tray, ensuring that they are spaced well apart, and put the tray back into the oven. Turn the tray through 180° after 30 minutes. Bake for 2 hours total, turning the tray every 30 minutes. The canelés should be very dark in colour.
Take the tray out of the oven. Using tongs pick up a mold and invert it over a rack. The canelé should slide out easily; if it does not, rap it sharply on the counter and invert it again. In extreme cases (indicating that the mold was not waxed sufficiently) you may have to use a toothpick to free the cake. Repeat with all molds. Allow to cool for an hour before eating.
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re: souschef
Addenda:
1) The conical sieve may not be essential, but the batter does have to be strained through a fine-mesh sieve.
2) If after 30 minutes of baking the canelés have souffléed or formed domes much above the molds, leave the tray out for a minute or two till they deflate to the tops of the molds. This is very dependent on oven temperature.
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Since Trewq asked me to bake a batch of canelés on a preheated baking sheet, I did so today; I left the sheet in the oven while it was preheating. Trewq is onto something there. The canelés did not soufflée as much as usual; in fact they rose above the molds only very slghtly (about 1/4 inch or so). I baked them at 400 degrees F for 2 hours, turning them every 30 minutes. Thank you. Q !!! I will use a preheated baking sheet in the future. I did not have to futz with leaving them out to deflate after 30 minutes.
In keeping with the vagaries of canelé baking: the first two left the molds smoothly, without any protest, but the third refused to budge, so I banged the mold on the counter and it popped out okay, but uneven on the crown. The bellybutton looked like it jiggled during baking; it was a bit oval rather than round - I have no idea why, and am not going to lose any sleep over it, but put it down to one of those booga-booga mysteries of making these darn things. The rest turned out fine, and were wonderfully custardy.
Picture of the renegade canelé attached.
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re: souschef
Very nice, souschef! I'll try trewq's preheated baking sheet next time, and leave 1/3"--more than 0.5 cm--between batter and rim.
I've noticed that I get better results when the canelés form domes rather than soufflés. When they rise too much, I get nervous: afraid that the cakes are lifting off and won't settle back properly. I think an air pocket in the crown probably caused your canelé to partially lift off, thus stretching the belly button.
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A canelé question on another thread, if anyone wants to jump in (I was alerted to it by Buttertart):
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Cynsa, looking at the (your) first post in this thread, I was wondering if it makes you the Borger Queen.
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re: souschef
The Hive?... 1/2 pound of French food-grade beeswax is $12 U.S. at Cookin'.
Judy Kaminsky has just returned from Paris with molds and beeswax.
She says that 1/2 lb. will last anyone a lifetime.Cookin'
339 Divisadero Street
San Francisco, CA 94117-2208
(415) 861-1854Open Tue-Sat 12pm-6:30pm; Sun 1pm-5pm
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Trewq, I picked up the pound of beeswax yesterday. It's a cylinder 4 inches in diameter and 3 inches high; it should last me a LONG time. Since you mentioned it in the thread, is that what you use to wax your legs, or is that none of my beeswax?
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These threads are fascinating. But I think I am going to stick with getting the really good caneles at La Tulipe in Mount Kisco, N.Y. I love to bake, but I don't have this kind of patience. Y'all are saints.
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re: souschef
Fun doesn't begin to describe it. It's a party!
Article in the NYT
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/20... -
re: souschef
I tried burning off the debris in a hot oven but only succeeded in setting off the smoke alarm. After another overnight soaking, I followed the souschef tip and bought a box of the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser - works just like magic with a final swab of a Q-tip cotton swab.
Now I have clean molds to be seasoned again. The cycle begins anew.
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dear trewq-Q, my canelés were wax-laden most unpleasantly... I will next attempt to pour wax into the mold, swirl it, and pour out the excess, let it rest... then reheat the mold with a second-heat pour for a thinner coat of wax? or, reheat and brush out the excess with a silicone brush? or, perhaps my wax:oil ratio must be adjusted?
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re: Cynsa
I agree with Souschef. I have a pastry brush that I only use for waxing (the molds not my legs) a quick brush and I'm done. I don't even heat my molds. Very easy to clean I rub soap into it and rinse with hot water or you can use a silicone brush like Souschef.
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re: Cynsa
Hi, Cynsa, I pour clear, molten wax into very warm molds (I use cotton work gloves), swirl, pour into the next mold, and so on, inverting each mold after coating. I know the molds are no longer warm enough when I can clearly see a waxy coating on the mold. When this happens, I pop the mold in a warm oven until the wax melts, then swirl and pour out again. The coating should be invisible (or nearly so) except for the droplet hanging from the dimple (I'd agree, a more elegant term than navel).
I do have a couple of silicone brushes, but I'm a really slow brusher, so prefer the pour and swirl method. My wax mixture, to which I just keep adding beeswax as it gets used up, is now mostly beeswax, and I'm not sure why one would need to add oil to the wax, unless it is because beeswax is considerably more expensive than oil. I think the higher beeswax content might keep the canelés crunchy a bit longer.























