Boeuf Bourguignon questions: sauce and prep
Whenever I make BB, I use Julia Child's recipe, or a variation thereof (like the J&J version). However, some recipes out there recommend marinating the meat first, overnight, in the liquid. What purpose does this serve? Second, I always have issues with the sauce. Once I remove the meat and boil the sauce down, it never really gets as thickish. Does it need to rest for a few minutes after adding the flour, does it thicken if it cools? Also, when is the best time to taste it to see if salt is needed?
Generally, marinating imparts flavor and/or to tenderizes the meat. Some cooks do it while others don't bother. Marinating does not affect the thickening of the sauce. After you reduce the sauce, you can further thickening to your liking by whisking a little beurre manie (flour and softened butter mixed together) or a cornstarch slurvy (cornstarch mixed with a little cold liquid). I always salt the meat before browning it, a little after I add the wine/stock. Then I do a final salt adjustment after the sauce is reduced.
Most traditional recipes call for marinating, a few don't, but usually for up to four hours and not overnight. If I decide to make it far enough in advance to allow time to marinade, I do, but if not, it's still good. Before browning the meat, whether marinated or not, I do dry it somewhat and then dredge it well in flour. This is the thickener for the sauce while it is braising in the oven. I do use the marinade to deglaze the browning pan, then pour all of that liquid over the meat in the braising casserole, along with a rich beef stock or demiglace to cover. And I use a bit of cognac along with the red wine. Unlike most cooks and chefs, I do NOT salt the meat before browning or during cooking, but do use the bouquet garni and other seasonings/flavorings that are traditional, then use kosher salt to adjust the seasonings just before serving. I always use a Tbsp or so of tomato paste in the sauce before it goes in the oven, as well as blanched and browned salt pork. I also use sauteed regular onions in the oven (occasionally I do braise on top of the stove), then remove them and add the browned pearl onions and quartered browned mushrooms just before serving. And if it need a touch up on the cognac, I do that just before serving, but I never add more red wine at this late date. It will taste "rough," but the cognac will not. Good luck!
With any braised (or stewed) meat, thickening comes from one of several sources:
- flour that the meat was dredged in before browning
- the breakdown of vegetables such as diced onion during cooking
- thickener added near the end. That thickener might a slurry (cornstarch or even flour), a blend of of flour and fat (the kneaded butter or a roux), or fatty emulsion like cream or butter. When adding a starch you do need to cook it till the starch gelatinizes. Flour needs a higher temperature for this than cornstarch. That cooking also removes the raw taste of flour.
Thanks for all your responses. A few points:
* I don't eat pork, so omit the lardons. I have been considering looking for beef crisp, but wasn't sure if that was a decent substitute.
* I prefer to make the dish in advance, rather than let it marinade beforehand.
* MTAoFC says that if you dredge the meat in flour and let it sit, the flour is absorbed by the meat and turns gummy. Because I still am slow in the kitchen and have witnesses this gummy business, I sometimes sprinkle the flour into the stew after it is browned. (Several recipes do this, I'm not sure if this "cheating" method works or not.)
* I will try thickening it with a butter/flour mixture at the end. But, I thought it had to be done off-heat?
I don't like dredging meat with flour before browning either. Sometimes I dust with flour after browning, but only if the meat is dry or coated with fat. I don't this if the meat is already releasing its juices.
Boiling the sauce down is better used as a way of concentrating the flavors than as a way of thickening the sauce. If the sauce is already salty enough, you don't want to concentrate that more.
I think buerre manie is better as a way of tweaking the thickness of a sauce that already has some flour thickening. It's not as good as a primary thickener.
E_M, I use a brown paper bag to "dredge" my meat in. I put the flour in the bag, then ONLY as much meat as will fit in the pan at one time without crowding. Brown that batch, then do the next the same way, never allowing the meat to sit after dredging. It's always straight into the pan. Another thing that limits the problems is to use Wondra flour. In my area I can only get it during the holidays, so if I forget to stock up on it, it's internet or wait another year. Good luck!
Remember that Julia's original recipe was fine-tuned while she was living in France.
Marinating begins to break down the tougher muscle fibres and connective tissue, letting the meat become more tender.
French beef isn't aged like American beef...so you MUST marinate the beef in the wine overnight ahead of time in order to have any hope at all of having edible meat.
I made BB in the US without marinating all the time, and it was never a problem. The first time I made it here in France (for company, of course....) we sat down to dinner -- the sauce was brown and thick and glossy, and it smelled heavenly. It was frosty that night, too, so the anticipation was even higher.
We gnawed and chewed our way through it...it tasted as good as it smelled, but I was mortified to have us all sitting there chewing so hard we could hear it across the room.
The good news is that French beef is gorgeous to look at -- great color, and nice marbling -- and has a much more "beefy" flavor than its US cousins....but yike...tender it's not.