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Sep 26, 2010 01:40 PM

Huitlacoche Pizza?

Last week I did a Oaxacan mole pizza: See my final post, at the bottom, for the pie I finally wound up making (it was great!).

This week, I'm thinking huitlacoche. Problem is, while I've eaten a ton of the stuff, I've never cooked with it, never bought it, know nothing about it except that it's corn smutty goodness.

Mexicans ONLY use it in quesadillas. Would it be a mistake to put it on a pizza (i.e. high heat for relatively long period)? Do I just buy it in a jar and spoon it on? Are there moisture or dryness issues?
Also, where do you buy the stuff, anyway? Is there a good brand?

I should note, as I did last week, that the pizza will be made with conventional dough in a conventional professional pizza oven (inside a pizzeria, in fact).

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  1. I enjoyed fresh huitlacoche mostly in enchiladas and casseroles when I lived in D.F.
    One of few fresh-frozen stateside growers is Roy Burns in Groveland, FL. 352-429-4048. He is quite a character if you catch him when he is not in the fields. He sells 10 lb. minimum orders for $16/lb. plus shipping, mostly to restaurant suppliers. The nearest to you is Balder Specialty foods in the Bronx, 718-304-4521.
    Roy infects his crop with spores at a strategic point in it's growth, and October is one of his cycles. He has experimented with canning and jarring but he says he has to add too much water for canning, so frozen is the best you can do. As for canned brands, Goya sells it in 7 oz. cans for about $4. The extra wetness may actually hold up well during pizza cooking.
    I enjoyed your quasi-Oaxacan mole pizza thread and photo, keep up with the experiments. I hope you do a meat eater version sometime.
    The huitlacoche would meld well with your roasted corn. I would back off on the chipotles unless you would serve a habanero with a perigord truffle. Huitlacoche is a mild flavor.

    3 Replies
    1. re: Veggo

      Great info, Veggo, thanks so much. Yeah, would take me a good while to work off 10 lbs of huitlacoche!!!

      I don't mind the veg restriction. First, creativity thrives under restriction, so I say "bring it on!" Second, I've always felt that meat in pizza is a kludge. And unnecessary, since the cheese offers protein. Not that I don't love a great sausage or meatball pie, but when I have such pizza, it actually seems less like pizza to me open hero or something. It's a fundamental change.

      Agreed no chipotles with the huitlacoche. But a bit of jalapeno might be good, to counterpoint the mexican white cheese and offer that greenish, verdant, peppery flavor as well as spice. I've had it that way in DF.

      What else on the huitlacoche pie? I've got a fantasy about adding shiso leaves just after it comes out of the oven, but it just sounds so precious and jive/fusiony. I'd love to find a way to work a subliminal bit of warm/sweet maple into that mix....if I can find a way to do it real subtly (obviously not detectably sweet). Maple + huitlacoche for some reason rings a bell (though, again, in like a one-to-one-hundred ratio).

      1. re: Jim Leff

        I could be totally of base...but what about a drizzle of maple syrup (that has been warmed up)?

      2. re: Veggo

        Dear Veggo please tell us, and further impel us, into beauties of corn smut et al.
        I've known long of the rapture of this fungal encapture, but I've just never et' it.... my wrong

        If I start with the canned, will I find it so bland,
        that I question the cult 'round huitlacoche?

        I'm for tasting each fungus among us
        But I lack your acumen and skill
        of the foodstuffs that grow
        as Equator we go.
        We Okies don't do 'quators, still.

        So give hint, maybe song
        I don't wanna do fungus that's wrong.

      3. what about...

        white onions, epazote, cilantro, and cotija cheese and a fried egg or two on top?

        or squash blossoms, cherry tomatoes, onions, chiles, garlic, cumin and chevre?

        or portabello mushrooms, roasted corn, garlic onions, dill, and ricotta cheese?

        1. They have huitlacoche pizza on the menu at Pizza Nostrana in Oaxaca City, which is right by Santo Domingo. We tried it when we were there last spring and liked it. If I remember, the pizza had caramelized onions and green chile with the huitlacoche. Good luck.

          2 Replies
          1. re: jasont

            green chiles and caramelized onions sounds good. Maybe some feta or parmesano, too.....

            1. re: Jim Leff

              Don't go too strong or salty, you'll kill the SUBTLE huitlacoche.

          2. Quite curious about the Balder Specialty rec.
            Are these "fresh"? Never found this up North ...
            These you can find ...
            FWIW ...
            I'm not sure what "Fiddleheads in Maple Vinegar" are however, even being familiar with each.