Great sweetbreads and roasted chicken in Paris
My bride and I will be in Paris for three nights and two days. We will have just come from San Sebastian, where we will have eaten at several gastronomic restaurants, so Michelin stars will not necessarily be a priority in Paris (though we are not opposed). She is in search of a great sweetbread dish, and I would love some good quality roasted chicken. Any suggestions?
The restaurants we are most seriously considering are Josephine, La Regalade St Honore, Le Comptoir du Relais, and one of Christian Constant's places (not sure which). We are also considering either Chez Georges, Le Baratin, Aux Lyonnais, or Bistro Paul Bert.
Any help in finalizing our dining plans would be very appreciated. And thanks to all the Hounds that have helped get us this far.
For sweetbread, I'll have to say Ledoyen is the center of the world. Or l'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. Senderens used to be the ultimate god of sweetbreads (and many other things) in Lucas Carton days, but I haven't seen them on the menu of Senderens once.
For roast chicken, I can't think of a place I approve of. Maybe l'Atelier, though they rarely have it. I think most rotisseries suck, with chicken way overcooked, but some are good. I love Poulet Express, on rue de Théatre, a place that does home delivery of roast chicken and, more importantly, cook breast and thighs separately so that the cooking is perfect. However, the quality of their chicken is only very good for the money. Even l'Ami Louis, discussed a lot on this board, does overcook their chicken, but that's still probably the best choice in town for roast chicken.
No, really, we have the best quality of chicken in this town, and not a restaurant that roasts them properly. That said, Le Cinq and Le Bristol make pretty wonderful jobs of poaching them (and, you know, at those prices, I suppose, poaching you as well).
ETA: l'Ambroisie used to do a brilliant, high quality, ridiculously priced roast chicken. Don't know if they still can.
Another place with good sweetbreads is the traditional, old school "Chez Géraud" in the 16th.
For Moshulu's inimitable take on it, do a search for "Paris Review, Chez Géraud". This was done years before The great Pud, selected it as his bistro of the year...R.I.P, Mushulu wherever you may be.
I ordered the Sweetbreads at Auberge Bressane the other night, and was very disappointed
They were abundant, but with too much texture, tough, and the sauce was too "milky".
Tasted like the Cream was added at the last minute, and not reduced..
Possibly because it was Sunday, and the regular Kitchen staff was off?
The Cheese Souffle was runny in the center as well.
Just a bad night?
I do like this Bistro and will go back, but wouldn't order the Sweetbreads again.
I don't mind a "crisp" outside, but I want a melt in the mouth inside.
Have you had the Sweetbreads 3-ways at L'Ambroisie?
I don't think sunday is an issue at Auberge Bressane, but maybe things changed since this summer, as they redid the kitchen. A new visit seems in order.
That said, the remark about the cream sounds like usual Bressane to me. There is no such thing as too much cream. Maybe it's th sauce they added the cream in that wasn't reduced enough?
Never had the three way sweetbread at l'Ambroisie. Or any three way, really.
It was at your suggestion several years ago that we first visited L'Ambroisie, and certainly found our "ideal".
I made a mistake, because I rarely keep notes, but it is two ways, not three.
The first is an extremely generous lobe crispy on the outside, and smooth as silk on the inside.
I asked about the amazing flavor, and they told me that it was infused with Lemongrass.
The second was inside a formed Cabbage, steamed? stewed? also bursting with flavor.
All of this on a bed of wonderful Mushrooms, (can't remember which kind, but perfectly cooked.
A memorable dish, one of the best I have ever eaten, and a feast for the eyes, as well.