Rhone to Burgundy to Loire to Paris - Food/Winery Recommendations!
I know we're trying to fit in a LOT! But we'll be renting a car in Cannes, stopping at Chateau Clement, then moving on to Lyon for one night only, then to Le Clos du Colombier in Pommard and then Chateau du Plessis in the Loire Valley and then our final three nights in Paris. Any restaurant recommendations would be appreciated. We love hole-in-the-wall local places but will try anything. I think we will be dining at La Garaudiere in Levernois (is this good?) and Restaurant L'Alexandrin in Lyon.
Three one-stars I would recommend without hesitation are:
12, rue Gambetta in Saumur
Closed Sunday night, Mondays abd Tuesdays
Menus = 27 + 82 €
La Chanceliere “Jeu de Cartes”
1 pl Marronniers in Montbazon
Closed Sundays and Mondays
Menus 25 and 45 €
101 ave Tranchee in Tours
Closed Saturday lunch and Sundays
Menus 32 and 90 €
We just returned from a week in Burgundy (stayed in Puligny Montrachet) and a week in the Loire (stayed near Chinon). The drive from PM to Chinon via Sancerre was about 6 hours, 3 to Le Chat (just across the River from Sancerre). If you wanted to do all autoroute, you could make Tours from Pommard in 4 hours (a really uninteresting drive).
The food and wine in Burgundy was terrific and staying in Pommard you can try the new restaurant next to the local butcher. Locals love it. Also, most locals went out of their way to dis anything to do with Château Pommard, including their wines. We loved Cave Madeline in Beaune, the food was inventive, but still quite good. I had veal liver which was split and cooked only on the original outside, with wonderful seasonings on the cut side. Be warned, the Cave is very rustic, it’s a wine store with a long picnic table down one side. The wines are from all over France, but with many small Cote d’Or vintages. The owner is a character and he dominates the dining area.
Had a very good lunch at Le Tres Girard in Morey St Denis. The fish dishes (both entrées and mains) were creative and good. I had veal cubes on a skewer, simple and well prepared. The wines are somewhat pricey. Service is efficient and a little stiff.
Its hard to have a bad meal or wine anywhere in Cote d’Or or Cote d’Chalonise.
Lunch at Le Chat is not to be missed and if you search this board you’ll see other references to it. It has 7 tables and we were the only non locals there for lunch. The highlight was a gazpacho with a center of haddock mousse. For a main I had veal cooked confit style. Every dish came with fresh veggies diced small and well seasoned.
The two meals, other than at our Table ‘d Hote in the Loire that were memorable were at
Auberge de la Route d'Or in Candes-Saint-Martin. The place is small, beautifully decorated and friendly service. The eel, their speciality was killer. The other place was Café Saponaire in Savonnieres, next town east of Villandry. It appears casual, but the food is very upscale for a café. And the gardens at Villandry are worth seeing.
We did a meal (http://www.bienvenue-a-la-ferme.com/) at a Foie Gras farm. Almost everything the family served is grown on their farm and the 13 year old daughter is the English interpreter.
You do know what length drive you have from Pommard to Chateau du Plessis ? In any event there is a lovely restaurant in the Loire just south of Angers. This is the same place where Coulee de Serrant is made and bottled. About 3 km away. Forget the name but the only spot right nerar the vineyard.