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Sep 23, 2010 03:27 PM

URGENT! Paris: ISO exceptional small, neighborhood spots in the 6th arr.

My parents lived in Paris for several years back in the 60s (ridiculously lucky), visited regularly since then, and are going back for their 50th anniversary this weekend for a week. They rented an apartment on Rue de Sevres, just a block from the Sevres Babylone metro. They both speak fluent French - my dad is a native - and have basically been there, done that to all the obvious places in Paris.

I'd love to give them some current recommendations in their neighborhood for those quintessentially Parisian, small, cozy, quiet places that locals in the area frequent - restaurants and cafes primarily, but also particularly wonderful boulangeries, boucheries, charcuteries, patisseries... anything really that will transport them to the "real" Paris.

Farther afield suggestions are also absolutely welcome (I'm having a hard time searching the chowhound site), too, but they're in their late 70s so close is good.

THANK YOU in advance for assisting me with this public service! :)

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    1. I have no idea what the "real" Paris is -- I mean, if it means the one of people who live here, it's made of gyros and macdonalds and MSG Chinese, and also good bakeries.

      That said, there is not much that is new and noteworthy in the Sèvres-Babylone neighborhood. Two high end pastry shops appeared in the last couple of years: Hugo and Victor, which some admire, and Philippe Conticini's La Patisserie des Reves, that has been widely discussed on this board and whose musts include brioche feuilletée, "grand cru" chocolate cake, Paris-Brest (mostly the filling), Kouign-Aman (when it's brown enough), chausson aux pommes.

      Then there are many old classics, such as Vérot patisserie (tip top), a few butchers on rue de Sèvres, Barthélémy for cheese, la Grande Epicerie for fancy grocery, Le Paris, L'Atelier for fancy dining, Christian Constant rue de Fleurus@Assas for pastry and sorbets, Milcent for bakery, Joséphine as traditional bistrot... but none of that is very new.

      1 Reply
      1. re: souphie

        Ha, Souphie -- I wrote the same thing about "real" Paris -- does that mean places that are touristy and serve bad food are "fake" Paris? But I edited myself.

      2. They probably already know about Fromagerie Quatrehomme but it is excellent and on rue de Sèvres.

        Mamie Gâteau is a sweet salon de thé on rue du Cherche Midi with lovely cakes salés, quiches, and salads.

        Charcuterie Verot near métro St-Placide.

        La Cigale Récamier for soufflés.

        There is a market three times a week on bd Raspail. I prefer the Tues/Fri to the Sunday marché bio, which is outrageously expensive.

        I live in this neighborhood and look forward to seeing other suggestions.

        1. I am far from an expert on Paris, having only been there once in recent years, but we had a lovely meal in La Cerisaie, which isn't very far from where they are staying. I felt it was very Parisian (SW French cuisine though) and we didn't notice any other English speakers when we were there. Excellent food, reasonable prices and buzzy atmosphere. Booking essential. Do local chowhounders think this fits the bill?

          1 Reply
          1. re: Theresa

            I suppose, but maybe also M. Arabian's Cameleon or 6.5/10 La Moustache, 3, rue Sainte-Beuve in the 6th, next to Le Timbre,, closed Sundays and Saturday and Monday at lunch where I ate a couple of weeks ago.. Pix at John talbott's Paris.

          2. The "real" Paris you seek is so expensive these days, it's really for the rich and tourists with a wad to blow. I mean what's it going to cost me to get a decent tartare at Josephine? $100 or something?

            2 Replies
            1. re: Busk

              La Marlotte is reasonably priced and not frequented by tourists; nothing special perhaps, but acceptable. Basile is a somewhat upscale cafe, also quite decent for a salad or sandwich. Both are nearby.

              1. re: Busk

                At that price, you'll get the old Sauternes with it.