9/22/10 AKA Bistro, Lincoln: Sublime Trad French and Exciting Innovative Japanese
- opinionatedchef Sep 22, 2010 10:57 PM
At last, with this fairly new place, Lincoln has a dining room of which they can be proud. And fortunate are they.From the get-go we felt welcomed and well cared for. Handsome sophisticated decor; room in greys, burnt orange/dark reds; comfortable silky banquettes along window lined walls; attractive quiet outdoor patio. Dora- one of the best waitresses ever- gracious, professional, very food knowledgable, listened to our declaration of interests and our requests for advice, and steered us very well.
Menu is most unique w/ its 2- sided concept : 1) Japanese sashimi innovations and 2) French trad, with Provencale emphasis.
In all we had 9 dishes; $150 before tip.Definitely not inexpensive (the 2 co-owners are Uni [Clio sister]alums) but not one plate was mediocre. In fact, of the Japanese dishes, all had unique (never seen before) sauces and some unique components(like the 'sea grapes', seaweed-related tiny beads that looked exactly like caviar and had salty crunch of the sea.)
* unctuous silky sauteed calamari Basquaise w/ chorizo and slivered red and green peppers
* best Hamachi collar ever- marinated in dashi yuzu etc......and grilled
*cubed seared tuna w/ hats of seared foie gras w/ cumin and ahi and other sauces(next time I'll nix the foie gras par.t) Sauces were really innovative/successful
* bronzino with warm olive oil/japanese emulsion
* tuna poke-( the most abundant portion of all the Japanese fish dishes)
* sauteed frogs legs with garlic aioli and broccoli puree/sauce
* 7 seaweed salad- multi colored (red frisee- looking seaweed!) and dressed w/ sesame,soy,mirin etc.
* hamachi with ginger miso dressing and 'sea grapes'
* perfect french table bread with butter
surprisingly- wines by the glass not terrific choices.
Lovely serving dishes; nice unfussy attention to presentation.
Met the French co- owner/GM who was genuinely happy that we were happy. Very warm gracious fellow.
For 30 years I've felt bad for the people of Lincoln- living in a beautiful town with no good restaurants.
Now, after a trip to Verrill Farm or the Decordova or Stonegate Gardens- we can linger in the peaceful countryside and have dinner. I really hope the locals are embracing AKA Bistro. A beautiful town finally has a beautiful restaurant.
11 Wheeler Rd, Concord, MA, MA 01742
AKA Winebar & Bistro
709 Edmonton Trail NE, Calgary, AB T2E 3J5, CA
145 Lincoln Rd, Lincoln, MA 01773