CLOSED: Cono & Sons O'Pescatore
This wasn't just a great place to eat, it was historically significant. Here's (part of) what I wrote about them in my first book:
This may be the finest Italian restaurant in town, and more traditional than many places even in Naples. While cuisine there has changed greatly in the last few decades, Cono's offers a snapshot of Neapolitan cooking half a century ago. Olive oil, now ubiquitous, is a fairly new arrival to the region, and Cono's still uses the more traditional salt pork for a lusty, deep flavor. The many sauces are stunning, no two alike. Stick with seafood (pristinely fresh) and avoid veal chop preparations (sliced veal's better) and Northern dishes such as fettucini alfredo.
Cono & Sons O'Pescatore
301 Graham Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11211
Are you ever right. Food was often variable, often delicious, but always true to itself without pretense. Having grown up in a Brooklyn filled with such places, it breaks my heart, too. Last visit was to wolf down their great fried calamari heroes on the street after an evening at Motorino. Which in itself says something, I guess.
319 Graham Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11211
Jim, I agree completely, and I mourn with you.
The food at Cono's was consistently excellent, especially if you knew what to order.
Fantastic seafood, stellar tomato sauce, tasty veal cutlets...I can go on and on.
Linguine alla Cono with Fish Sauce will now exist only in my memory.
And yeah, that takeout window was a gem.
Can't tell you how many times I was there for a Veal Cutlet Milanese hero (with sauce).
The last time, on a visit to NY in Oct. 2009, I felt like eating the tin foil it was wrapped in.
The fact that there are only 5 comments posted before this one belies the quality of Cono's, for food and atmosphere. R.I.P.