Final help with Venice 4 days.
- Biroldo Sep 17, 2010 01:37 PM
With the help of PBSF, Jen Kalb, JoeH, Badwaiter and many others, I am firming up my plans for 4 days in Venice.
Sunday, we arrive late. Have a late reservation at Bistrot de Venise
Monday, Plan to go to museums and churches in the San Polo, Santa Croce area. Any suggestions for a quick lunch, cicchetti in this region?
Monday Dinner at Fiaschetteria Toscana.
Tuesday, need lunch suggestion near San Marco, again, cicchetti, or quick lunch.
Dinner at Alle Testiere.
Wednesday, no real plans. Either Dorsoduro and/or the Giudecca or a trip to the islands. Again, I would value lunch suggestions
Dinner Wednesday is open. I realize the places I have booked a high end and likely not overly traditional. Does anyone have a good suggestion for more local style, traditional fare?
Thanks in advance.
Apparently you need to insist at Fiaschetteria Toscana that you be seated downstairs to have an enjoyable experience. People seated in the upstairs area give the place more negative reviews. So be firm about your preference when you make your reservation.
As the earlier poster advice: definitely reserve on the ground floor for Fiaschetteria Toscana. The service is infinitely better. FT's cooking is fairly traditional, though the menu is large and varies.
Other good moderate choices for dinner are: Anice Stellato, da Alberto, Alla Frasca, Bancogiro (outside terrace is wonderful on a warm evening and the upstair dining room is cozy), Al Bacareto., Antica Besseta
Cicchetti/lunch for areas you're visiting:
San Marco: Aciugheta, Cavatappi, ai Assassini, enoteca San Marco, il Volto
San Polo: all the bacari near the Rialto market: do Mori, L'Arco, do Spade, al Garanghelo, Muro, Antica Dolo; ai Nomboli near Campo San Polo for sandwiches and tremezzini; Near the Frari: Caffe de Frari for atmosphere
Santa Croce: a Prosecco,
Dorsoduro: ai Vini Padovani, Enoteca Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi, Ai Artisti; Oniga is good for a inexpensive outside sit down on the Cp San Barnaba.
The only place on the Giudecca that is decent and inexpensive is alla Palanca.
A comment: if you are interested in the Rialto market, I would do San Polo on a day other than Monday which the pescheria is closed and also some of the produce vendors. The bacari around it will be open though.
I would like to add a few tips for eating at the Fiaschetteria Toscana:
1. Try many of their seafood antipasti !!
They have wonderful cicale di mare ("canoce", mantis shrimp), schie al polenta (small fried shrimp with soft polenta, to die for), soglioletti al saor (small baby sole marinated with onions and raisins), and much more, varying with the season.
2. Share the pasta dish, so that you can still eat one of the main courses. Their pasta is good, but nothing spectacular (like at Alle Testiere).
3. Get their bistecca fiorentina, it is as good as any one in Firenze and serves two, and avoid the frittura serenissima, it has to much vegetable tempura and not enough seafood. Any other frittura dish is wonderful, I would take the Moeche fritti (deep fried softshell crabs), if available, or just a fritto misto (calamari, shrimps and small fish).
4. Dont skip the desserts, they are homemade...
And if you are visiting San Rocco/Frari in San Polo, it is an easy walk toward San Pantalon where there are many inexpensive places that cater to the Foscari students and faculties. A recent one opened on calle San Pantalon (half a block from the excellent pasty shop Tonolo) has good salads, sandwiches and small plates with nice modern ambience. Sorry that the name escapes me right now. Another short stroll is the Campo Santa Margherita, where there are numerous outdoor places. Much of the food is nothing to speak of but it is very pleasant to sit outside to observe all the comings and goings. ai do Draghi on the northern end and the osteria down the southern end next to Bar Orange are the best options. The simply named CAFE is also good for sandwiches.
F.T. also has fabulous fried zucchini flowers.
If you are near the Frari church, you are not far from Vizu Virtu (I may have mispelled) but it is a fabulous chocolate shop with a small selection of very UNtraditional gelati.
Ciaks in Campo San Toma is a decent place for a quick lunch and a glass of wine.
I totally agree about the zucchini blossoms as Fiaschetteria Toscana does everything fritto well. Too bad that local zucchini blossoms are just about over.
The chocolate shop off San Toma is Vizio Virtu which is the real name of the owner/chocolatier. She started the shop about 4 years ago and is probably the only high-end chocolatier in Venice. Everything she makes is excellent. She only started making gelato this year; great texture and very intensely flavored. Too bad that she doesn't give it a higher profile in her shop. I was there in Easter and her chocolate Easter eggs were something to behold. And one can watch her work in the back of the shop. Thank you for mentioning the shop.
On a recent trip to Venice my wife and I had a great dinner at Restoranne Il Ridotto in Campo San Filippo e Giacomo. Its only a few blocks from St. Marks and is a relatively small restaurant of about six tables, not "touristy",upscale, very nice atmosphere. The food and service was terrific! The chef owner takes great pride in picking the best fresh seafood and vegtables each day from the market and preparing a new a different menu featuring "specials" that re great. Pasta and seafood are outstanding.