Saturne, 17 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires, 75002 Paris
- mangeur Sep 15, 2010 01:20 PM
Any reports from our local gurus?
re: John Talbott
Wow aren’t we an anxious group! Three of us went last night and all three enjoyed it. Brand, spanking new with a pleasant, modern décor consisting of stone walls lined with wine shelves, undressed wooden tables and floors and a unique arched skylight in the ceiling. The entrance gives way to a wine bar/charcuterie area which then leads into the spacious main dining room. The staff is all young and enthusiastic…Chef Chartier is only 23…an age when I was still burning hotdogs and marshmallows. There is no carte de vin but the server/sommelier recommended a chardonnay from the Jura(Arbois) and a Cornas from the upper Cote du Rhone, which he nicely decanted for us
There is a €37 menu and a €59 six course menu, which we chose. The only choice is between homard bleu with haricots verts, figs and honey vinaigrette or ris de veau Meuniere with sliced raw mushrooms and an oyster sauce. Both were good but the ris de veau was butter heaven!
The 1st course was a small salad of cucumber, tomato and onion, garnished with raw, marinated shrimp and mackerel.
3rd up was line caught sea bass with a crispy skin and unctuously moist flesh served with delicious lightly sautéed spinach and smoked mussels.
4th was roasted Challans duck with an onion half containing a Muscat grape and, probably a mistake, the same delicious spinach as a garnish. The chef managed the same good trick with all three meats…a delicious crisp outer layer and a juicy tender interior…we all three just scarfed down the salty, crispy skin of the duck.
Next up was a slice of St. Nectaire and generous shavings of an excellent Comté
Dessert was a crusty pain perdu with buttermilk ice cream.
Our only complaint was the noise level which crescendoed to a near roar as the room filled up. Modern décor is nice but a few soft, sound absorbing surfaces would be so welcome. The tables are comfortably spaced but still the roar became a distraction. How did all these people hear about this place so soon? I would and will return but perhaps equipped with earplugs.
That certainly seems to be the case; there are 2 menus one at €37 and one at €59, but they essentially had the same items. There was no lobster/ris de veau or bar de ligne on the smaller menu but there was a razor clam with poireaux instead; the other listings were the same.
Yes they are open for lunch, the menu is 35 € for 3 courses, so you are probably better off going for dinner which is 37 € for 4 courses or 59 € 6. It's a pretty big restaurant and it hasn't been open a week, so for now I doubt it is difficult to get a table.
I went the other night and loved it. Some photos are here www.parisnotebook.wordpress.com
Well it took me a while but I went with another foodnut today for lunch and it was (except for Spring) the revelation of the rentree.
A few differences from prior reports:
Lunch has choices so as opposed to Phyllis's advice I'd counsel lunch.
Also when she and Laidback went there was no wine list - today's was 20 pages long.
Regarding dbrosin's question: I'd reserve ASAP; the first week all the critics were there, all wrote it up very well; I'm booking Colette's and my visit a good three weeks hence tonite.
Regarding Deluca's query: it's more like Spring and Panisse in its incredibly well-sourced and cooked veggies and proteins.
Finally as everyone has noted, you can barely hear your guest(s); they will have to solve the noise problem, esp when the noisy blender is being used or the place is full and wine is flowing.
The wines and meals are wonderfully priced - we left only 96 E lighter.
Pix at John Talbott's Paris if you're curious.