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Sep 11, 2010 08:44 AM

Lisbon-Sevilla-Cordoba-Cadiz-Jerez de la Frontera -Evora

We'll be in above cities plus TBD areas of eastern Algarve, Alentejo and western Andalucia from 10/12-10/28 for our anniversary. Lisbon and Sevilla are the main anchors and Lisbon is the only one we've visited before. Thinking of Lisbon's Restaurante Tavares for the big day. Any recommendations would be much appreciated. Particularly keen on affordable molecular gastronomy and places that aren't shy with the garlic. Thanks!

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  1. There have been tons of queries lately for Lisboa (where I live) and Évora. Most of these links have info I have provided about dining of all types and scales, as well as info on wine and such. Tavares is still very good, but there might be some other upscale places worth considering too (see the links).

    Feel free to let me know if you have any questions.

    Feliz Aniversário de Casamento!

    4 Replies
    1. re: vinhotinto75

      Thank you, once again, vinhotinto75. I relied on your excellent suggestions last October in Lisbon. And now I'm packing my bags to go back early in November. I LOVED A Esquina da Fe so much, I want to return. Do you happen to know what night(s) they are closed? Hoping to head there on a Saturday night. .Also heading back to Cacilhas for a seafood extravaganza on Sunday night. And then one other place on the free Monday...not sure which yet. Maybe we'll be up for some Bomjardin roast chicken and potatoes at that point. Or head back to Esquina da Fe.

      1. re: Shep Huntleigh

        Shep - I believe they are only closed on Sunday's (like most restaurants in Lisboa). If you like roasted goat in red wine, that is the speciality at Esquina da Fé on Friday's.

        Saturday nights are great and occasionally you will get to witness Lisboetan families celebrating a birthday or special occasion.

        Let me know if I can help in any other way.


        1. re: vinhotinto75

          Muito obrigado. We arrive on Saturday, missing the wine-roasted goat by one day. Oh, well. A reason to return. We'll be there on Saturday night for sure. Thank you again for your great help here and elsewhere on this board.

          1. re: Shep Huntleigh

            Shep - You are most welcome and I'm sure they might have the goat left over if you ask.

            Boa Viagem!

    2. This is NOT cheap (as requested) but if you want molecular gastronomy then the closest you can get to El Bulli is La Alqueria (about 20 miles outside Sevilla) which does sort of 'El Bulli's Greatest Hits'.
      As you are so close, then might be worth downgrading other meals/accommodation to make that 'pilgrimage' (FWIW I preferred this to El Bulli).

      2 Replies
        1. re: mr_gimlet

          I think it was €110 for the tasting menu.

      1. If you like fish I highly recommend El Espigon in Sevilla, the one in calle Bogota. They also have meat dishes.

        Lively local atmosphere at the bar. Laid back in the dining room.

        Very fresh fish done the Andalusian way. Simple and tasty.

        Enjoy your anniversay!

        1 Reply
        1. re: Quimbombo

          In a small town in the eastern algarve, Altura, you will find a great little seafood restaurant called A Chaminel First class.About 5 k from the border.Its a very short detour from the highway.

        2. Thank you all for the excellent recommendations. They have emboldened me to try a few more specific queries:
          *I love caldo verde. When I first came to Portugal, I fantasized about sampling a variety of them as I'd done with cassoulet in Languedoc and gumbo in New Orleans. It turned out that most restaurants serve it only on certain holidays. Do you know of any exceptions?
          *I was advised to check out the African restaurants in Lisbon and tried two. One was really French with a dash of African and one was run by a charming old woman who was making ghastly mistakes in the kitchen. If we were to just hit one near the center of town, which would you recommend?
          *My boss had the best meal of her life in Seville in 1980. It was in the center of the city and didn't look like much on the outside - iron bars on the door - but it was sumptuous inside and the food was sublime. She doesn't recall the name, but the logo included a picture of a little boy. Does that ring a bell?

          2 Replies
          1. re: calistoga

            @ Calistoga

            Which African restaurants did you try in Lisboa?

            There are several Luso-African places (Angolan, Cape Verdean, Mozambican) in the central areas worth trying:

            Ibo Restaurante is a nice mix of Mozambican, Portuguese, and some Goan dishes in a refined space with a nice view of the Tejo near the Cais do Sodré.


            Here are some other ideas for Luso-African cuisine too:

            The Casa da Morna (Musician Tito Paris' place) in Alcântara or even one of the more informal Cape Verdean restaurants like Cachupa too are great. Casa da Morna is formal and upscale and comes with music.


            I also have been to another Cape Verdean place in the Bairro Alto, Restaurante da Associação Cabo-Verdiana. There is also another music/restauant for Cape Verdean food: En'Clave which is on the Rua do Sol ao Rato.

            A newer place for Cape Verdean and Luso-African food is Restaurante Estrela Morena where I eat regularly.


            An Angolan musician, Waldemar Bastos, has a restaurant in the Bairro Alto, Água do Bengo ,which is quite good and it serves mainly Angolan dishes. Another place for Luso-African cuisine in the Bairro Alto is Restaurante da Mãe Preta.

            In Santa Catarina there is Restaurante Rosa da Rua

            There is also a Luso-African place on the Rua do Século in Santa Catarina called Boca Picante.

            In Alcântara there is the Angolan Restaurante, Restaurante Moamba as well.

            Hopefully these help and let me know if you have any questions.


            1. re: vinhotinto75

              Thanks, Vinhotinto. You've been a generous and encyclopedic resource. Lisbon is - generally - a great city for wandering aimlessly, but now we have the inside tips too.