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Sep 10, 2010 07:37 AM

Best pizza and pasta in Paris

Hello Foodies,

I'm looking for the best and (authentic) pizza and pasta in Paris. I have a preference for hole-in-the-wall, cozy, mom&pop restaus, but really, anything that can satisfy my craving will do. I'm talking about handmade spagetti, beautifully crusty pizzas with fresh mozzerella. Know any good places?

For reference, I'm from NY, and adore the pizza from Trattoria Zero Otto Nove, so anyone who recommends pizza that approaches that yumminess will receive my eternal gratitude.


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  1. How did John Talbott say? He had that way to write "forget about it" that was funny. Anyway: forget about it. Really.

    2 Replies
    1. re: souphie

      "How did John Talbott say? He had that way to write "forget about it" that was funny. "
      It's Brooklyese/Mafiaesque "faggedaboudit."
      I hesitated to write in response to the OP because I'm not French, rarely eat in Italian places here and prefer pasta I cook and pizza from Picard schmeared (that's Brooklynese too) with pepper flakes, smuggled in from Brooklyn, to anything I can get here.
      Figaro had a big pizza test a decade ago and #3 or 4 was in my nabe and it was kicky, but not pizza, altho' the entire staff was from Napoli.
      I do like some items at Mori however and can't complain about the pastas at a recent meal at I Cugini.

      1. re: John Talbott

        Sorry to be a stickler but it is "fuhgeddaboudit".

    2. "but really, anything that can satisfy my craving will do. I'm talking about handmade spagetti, beautifully crusty pizzas"

      Do you want just anything or do you want handmade beautiful stuff? The latter can't be found. The former can be found anywhere. You don't need this board's recs.

      10 Replies
      1. re: Parigi

        Although Italian food in Paris isn't as good as in...Italy, and is perhaps harder to come by than in the US, I find the following just fine, not necessarily for mind blowing food, but rather for unpretentious meals made from decent ingredients and with care and attention .

        Michel Angelo, a tiny Sicilian restaurant on the rue Andre Barsacq. I've had great arancini there, and wonderful pasta (dried, not "handmade beautiful stuff" ) cooked al dente comme il faut and with cockles, or bortaga, breadcrumbs, parsley and peperencino. It's very unpretentious, reasonably priced (count about 25 euros a head with wine), charming, and slightly chaotic, a bit like the places one can go to in Italy.

        For pizza, an unprententious dish, which is even when it's very good is never really that good, I find Maria et Luisa on the street of the same name perfectly adequate.

        1. re: vielleanglaise


          I don't know if the OP is on holiday here is living in Paris, but if he's an Italian addict you can get fatastic Italian produce and at great prices at the Cistenino coop latte shops. There are stores on the rue Fbg Poissonierre, rue St Maur, and somewhere near opera. The cheese arrives direct from rome on Thursdays.

          1. re: vielleanglaise

            I agree that there is some very good Italian food to be found in Paris. But no NY-style pizza, was my point.

            1. re: souphie

              For pizza-style pizza there is always Pasta e Basta, at the Olympiades. Best accessed from rue de Tolbiac.

              La Gazzetta, rue de Cotte (12e), and Cafe Baci, rue de Turenne (3e) make good pizza. Trendy places so the pizze are small and delicate, made with good produce. La Gazzetta is famous for pizza bianca.

              As for pasta, if you really crave "beautiful, handmade stuff", the solution is to grab a packet of Setaro linguine at any gourmet Italian store and cook it. For additional ingredients Coop. Latte Cisternino will do the rest.

              1. re: souphie

                I'm not necessarily looking for NY-style pizza, but just good pizza in general. Most place here are pretty frenchified, using hot pepper oil instead of hot pepper flakes, etc. Where do you get your "very good Italian food"?

                1. re: croissantaimecafe

                  There's no good rustic Italian food that I know of. When they exist, they have great succes and they quickly become very upscale, like the old Paparazzi. As Pti says, the best Italian is definitely Pasta e Basta in Chinatown. Otherwise, the good Italians are fancy expensive restaurants, not necessarily authentic: Sormani, La Pizzetta, what's the on in Buttes-Chaumont already. One that I love, but that has its ups and downs, is Luno Rosso in Romainville -- it's far far away for most readers, but it's good and it's cheap and not fancy ay all.

                  There are a few good Italian grocery stores. My favorite is Via Della Pasta, on rue Lebon (and there are other stores, check their website). It's my source for truffle and truffle products -- this should tell you how rustic and inexpensive it is.

                  1. re: souphie

                    Tried Luno Rosso twice and I'm definitely in agreement: good and cheap

                  2. re: croissantaimecafe

                    I'll third the coop latte cisternino recommendation.

                    « Most place here are pretty frenchified, using hot pepper oil instead of hot pepper flakes, etc. »

                    I agree with the first half of that sentence (eggs!), but the second half ... oil is totally normal, it's N. America that uses hot pepper flakes on pizza.

                    « Where do you get your "very good Italian food"? »

                    I personally buy high quality ingredients and make it myself; but then, it's my family kitchen. It's an approach I can only recommend. For example, with the very good quality potatoes you get in France, my gnocchi are 10x better than anything I've had in Italy. I make and freeze pasta dough in batches, and defrost, roll & cut fresh pasta twice a week or so. Pressure cookers are a lifesaver for risotto, and in addition to the overpriced or autoimported Italian cheese, French cheese works wonderfully in risotto and on pasta (mimolette is my current favorite).

                    Oh, and one of the Italian stands at the Sunday market at Bastille has reasonably priced baccalà.

              2. re: Parigi

                I keep trying, at least in our part of the 7th that we frequent. Lots of new places opening up, usually on sites that were French bistrots. Many of the newer spots don't even offer pizzas (zoning issues?). Alfio is nice, but then as former residents of BOS, SF, NYC etc, our standards have been set set quite high by others. Good luck!

              3. I've spent a lot of time in Paris, and never had a craving for pasta or pizza. Seems extremely strange to me.

                1 Reply
                1. re: pikawicca

                  I've been living here for a while, and my partner is an Italian food fanatic, so this is more for him than myself.

                2. This recommendation comes from the Sardinian Server at Pozzetto's (the gelato place);
                  Il Gobbo (9th) just a litle north of blvd poissonerie west of the gate. tiny place, have to be paying attention to the names on the boards to see it.

                  23 Replies
                  1. re: meatnveg

                    Can't find Il Gobbo on line or in directory Sure re spelling? Doesn't it mean the hunchback?

                    1. re: Parigi

                      Perhaps Osteria dal Gobo, 26 rue Bergere?

                      1. re: vielleanglaise

                        @Parigi: yes it does mean hunchback

                        @vielleanglaise: it could be. She only named it Il Gobo. You could go and ask her the next time you go to Pozetto's or are around the marais area.

                        there are a few ladies that work there. This recommendation was from the one with short (male-style) blonde hair. Her name is roxanne

                        1. re: meatnveg

                          We went to a tiny little Italian place in the Marais last May called Caffe Angela on rue des Ecouffes. Everything was made to order and the pasta was delicious. We met a few locals who steered us to a couple of other restaurants not on the tourist track ~ Au Vieux Comptoir in the 1st and Au Fils de Saison in the 3rd.

                          Here's my blog entry on Caffe Angela:



                          1. re: parisjo

                            Wow, so there's NO good pizza in Paris. How many hours will it take by train on the TGV to get to Italy?

                            1. re: Buzzy2

                              Florence/Rome/Venice are a night train away. But if you want good pizza, Naples it is.

                              1. re: Parigi

                                "But if you want good pizza, Naples it is." Tell that to a roman.

                                Saying that, and as mentioned above, I find the (more roman style) pizze at Maria et Louisa perfectly fine.

                              2. re: Buzzy2

                                Al Taglio, rue Neuve-Popincourt (11e). Great pizza sold by the weight.

                                1. re: Ptipois

                                  Al Taglio - best pizza I've had in Paris.

                                  Never been to Maria Luisa, but I did hear that it's pretty good also.

                                  1. re: Rio Yeti

                                    I also agree that Al Taglio is the best pizza I've had anywhere in France. I'm from the northeast (U.S.), and believe I have serious NY pizza street cred (of course, the best pizza in the world is at Sally's in New Haven, CT...).

                                    We found Al Taglio very enjoyable, and an ideal meal when we wanted a lighter break from French food on our Paris trip in 2013. It's not real NY pizza, of course. It's close to Sicilian style, but not really. We're going back to Paris this month (why I'm on this site now), and definitely planning a return.

                                    1. re: andygottlieb

                                      It's actually closer to Roman (which in a way is half way between New-York style and Sicilian)...

                                      If you do go back, please report back, not that I want you to be the guinea pig, but a friend of mine recently told me the pizza wasn't as good as he remembered it to be. I haven't been for a while, so... yes, I guess I do want you to be the guinea pig, but it's for the greater good !

                                      1. re: Rio Yeti

                                        Was there lastweek, just fine.
                                        Selection not as large as usual, but it was early.

                                        1. re: Rio Yeti

                                          Guinea pig report - the (new) Al Taglio location in the 6th was *not* very good. The Margherita slices were ok, the rest definitely not up to what I remember they were at the location in the 3rd in 2013.

                                          1. re: andygottlieb

                                            Yikes, the one l use is in the 11th near metro Parmentier

                                            1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                                              Apparently, the one in the 3rd is gone now. It's possible in 2013 I went to the one in the 11th. I can't be 100% positive, but I do think I went to the 3rd, and a Google search verifies that there did in fact used to be one in the 3rd.

                                              At any rate, I'll have to try the one in the 11th, but I certainly recommend avoiding the one in the 6th now.

                                              1. re: andygottlieb

                                                If the al Taglio on the rue Saintonge in the 3rd is gone, that is a very recent development. It is still shown on the website: (which, however, does not list the rue du Dragon location in the 6th*), and as of some weeks ago, when walking along the rue de Bretagne and looking up the rue Saintonge, I still saw the sign for al Taglio.

                                                * It would be possible that the rue du Dragon al Taglio is unrelated -- it seems you can have the same name for a different establishment as long as you are in a different arrondissement; hence, e.g., different Le Rubis establishments in 1st and 2nd -- but the press has treated the rue du Dragon as an expansion of the original one in the 11th.

                                                1. re: onzieme

                                                  Note that the French language main site does not have the Saintonge location listed. And a Google search of "al taglio Saintonge" shows that the location is permanently closed.

                                                  But thanks for catching that neither language version shows the site in the 6th. It seems quite possible - and certainly explanatory - that it is not from the same owners at all, which is why it was so inferior.

                                                  1. re: andygottlieb

                                                    While we're all discussing locations, you might want to try Popolo, the pizza pseudopod of Coinstot Vino.

                                                    1. re: andygottlieb

                                                      The Rue Dragon outlet is from the same owners. I got a tweet a month or so ago announcing its opening.

                                                      The very good Pizzas dei Cioppi on the rue de Cotte near the Marché d'Aligre also has some sort of partnership with Al Taglio.

                                                      But if you don't like Roman-style pizzas, you are not going to like Al Taglio or any of its offshoots.

                                                      For (to my tastes) remarkably authentic southern Italian and Sicilian pizze, La Massara on the rue de Turbigo/ rue Ste Elisabeth in the 3rd.

                                                      1. re: Parnassien

                                                        Ok, we went to the Al Taglio in the 11th last week (only second meal in 10 days in Paris which was not French food, which is a personal best). My "expert" daughter says the Margherita at the one in the 11th was basically the same as at the one in the 6th, but all of the rest was significantly better than the Al Taglio location in the 6th. I enjoyed it (the one in the 11th) very much, and gladly restate that it's best pizza I've had in France - admittedly only out of a sample of 10 or 15.

                                                        1. re: andygottlieb

                                                          Okay, enter Cinderella's ugly stepsister, crashing the ball. Whether or not it is the best pizza in Paris, or whether I would even recognize the best pizza in Paris (I prefer cracker-thin "California" yuppy pizza!), but we have used Vesuvio on Gozelin (just off the intersection of St. Germain and Rennes) for over 20 years. Wood oven, Sicilian. DH always orders pizza, I usually order the plat du jour or in warm weather, carpaccio. It's our "just off a late train" or "exhausted Sunday night" no-brainer. (Ask for Teddy's table and tell him the old Americans sent you.)


                                                2. re: Delucacheesemonger

                                                  Yes, that's the one I'm familiar with also...

                          2. Pizzeria Positano in the 6th, amazing.

                            2 Replies
                            1. re: foodiedanielle

                              I actually think Positano is mediocre at best, I live very close by.

                              1. re: UWSBB

                                We went to Positano last night after not liking Al Taglio in the 6th, as we're staying nearby. I'd say it was slightly better than mediocre, perhaps, but not much more than that. Fine if pizza's what you want and you're in the neighborhood, but certainly not worth traveling any distance for.