Paris Chowing Itinerary: October 16-23, 2010 (help, please!)

[Jolyon Helterman]

Spending the week in the city, this time bringing along a sister who is a fan of food, though by no means adventurous (all veggies, most seafood, beef, chicken, pork, all good). We're staying in an apartment in the 6th. My husband is at a food convention in the daytime during the first part of the week, so it's me and Sis only for lunches early on. I've built an itinerary of eating, some of my personal favorites from trips past, some through recommendations on this board and food-enthusiast friends.

A few requests:
1. Please look at my current itinerary—through Thursday lunch, when my sister heads back to the States a few days early—and let me know if any of the restaurants has a menu that probably won't offer anything on her "safe" list. I did do some research, but sometimes it's unclear. (Limited: fine. Nothing: not so fine)

2. Any duds, or too-much-of-the-sames?
Relatedly: Given the number of upscale places, do I need to tone it down by one or two places, or is there a strategy (à la carte as opposed to menu, etc.) to make this a good itinerary?

3. Any nice cafés or brasseries in the 6th or within a 30- to 45-minute walk (I like to walk to meals) that might be appropriate for lunches, not too hard to get into with a day or two notice (or just walking in)?

4. What's the best brasserie these days, which might work for Sunday dinner? Senderens is fancier than I want for that night. I've been to a dozen of the city's brasseries over the last decade or so, but I'm curious what's at the top of the game.

5. Any good ethnic restuarants (north African, Chinese?) to check out for lunch?

Obviously, I'm still somewhat early. So speak up, if you feel like there are flaws here! Many thanks!

SATURDAY, 10/16
Dinner: Le Dôme Montparnasse

SUNDAY, 10/17
Some brasserie?

MONDAY, 10/18
Lunch: L’Arpège (doing vegetable tasting for first time; had full dinner there in 2008)
Dinner: Le Divellec

TUESDAY, 10/19
Dinner: Michel Rostang

WEDNESDAY, 10/20
Dinner: Atelier de Joël Robuchon

THURSDAY, 10/21
Lunch: Chez L’Ami Jean
Dinner: Passage 53

FRIDAY, 10/22
[trying to get Yam T'Cha, but nothing booked yet]
Dinner: Le Truffière

[Jolyon Helterman]

Based on some feedback from this board (and elsewhere), I've adjusted my chowing schedule. Here's what I have booked now. Any feedback would be appreciated.

SATURDAY, 10/16
Lunch: La Bastide d’Odéon
Dinner: Le Dôme Montparnasse

SUNDAY, 10/17
Dinner: Atelier Joel Robuchon

MONDAY, 10/18
Lunch: L’Arpège (vegetable tasting)
Dinner: some brasserie, probably Bofinger

TUESDAY, 10/19
Dinner: Le Divellec

WEDNESDAY, 10/20
Dinner: Au Boeuf Couronné

THURSDAY, 10/21
Lunch: Chez L’Ami Jean
Dinner: Passage 53

FRIDAY, 10/22
Lunch: Wally Le Saharien
Dinner: Spring

[Nancy S.]

A new restaurant called Saturne just opened (today, I think), and it looks great. I think it would be a great addition to your plan.

[fanoffrance]

Here I am second-guessing you again.. Are you sure you want to go to Bofinger? I once had a reservation there (because it was open late and near the Bastille opera) but turned around and walked out when I saw the rough ambience of the place (luckily they didn't have my phone number). I don't think their menu is particularly appealing, either, and a lot of people have been disappointed by the food there. Some are even unhappy with the décor unless you get a table in the most spectacular section.

As an alternative, have you considered Benoit (20, r St-Martin)? I've been there once and was quite happy with it; the food was very good, the ambience convivial yet civilized, and the décor attractively nostalgic with brass, glass, wood etc. There are plenty of places with more interesting food for less money, but they won't make you feel like you're in an old movie.

[Jolyon Helterman]

Thanks for the heads-up. You know, I've been to Bofinger probably 15 times; it's had it's good moments, it's had it's meh moments. But mostly good. By the fourth visit, when we ended up getting seated in the upstairs area and had a miserable time, I had learned to demand a table under <<la coupole>>.

Given the state of the brasserie in Paris these days (in 2007, I traveled with a U.S.-based chef here to tour what amounted to 15 or so brasseries...so I have a good sample size, though certainly not complete), I think Bofinger does a good job looking the part, does a nice job with basics like choucroute and shellfish, and the ambience under that gorgeous dome is pretty hard to beat. Plus, it's centrally located. I've had better food at Rotonde but hate the room; ditto, Wepler.

Maybe I just want the opposite of that day's L'Arpège (great food + ugly ambience)??? Also, taking my sister to Paris for the first time, so it's probably partly for the familiar, sentimental value. (Plus: I stayed in the Marais my first dozen trips to the city, so Bofinger was pretty accessible....)

That said, lemme look into Benoit, which I haven't been to. Thanks again.

Gosh, that was a long response to response. I guess I'm getting excited!

[fanoffrance]

Very interesting!

[Jolyon Helterman]

UPDATE: Swapped out Le Truffière for Spring (!), which I just got on the telephone

[Parigi]

Bravo!

[fanoffrance]

I had lunch at La Truffière a couple of months ago and didn't find the food very interesting or tasty. Not bad, but I doubt I'll be back. Is it one of your "favorites from trips past"?

[Jolyon Helterman]

Not at all. Addicted to truffles, but maybe there's a better fix for them.... (Past favorites: Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Le Dôme)

[fanoffrance]

I had the cheap lunch menu without truffles; the truffle dishes may be much better, I can't say. As far as I know, at the time you'll be there, white truffles will be in season but not black ones.