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Aug 23, 2010 12:26 PM

Recommendation for Wine Touring Near Lyon

In a couple of weeks I will be traveling to Lyon and will try to fit in a day for wine touring. I was thinking of going a bit south to Vienne and driving around Côte-Rôtie (Ampuis and Verenay), but I am afraid there might be a bit of wine sticker shock in that area. If that doesn't work out, maybe I will go north to Beaujolais.

If anyone has a recommendations for reasonable and good wineries to visit or if there are some good wine shops or tasting rooms near to Lyon, I would love to get some recommendations.


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  1. By accident, I did what you propose for the Côte Rôtie this last March. It was raining as we were driving north to Burgundy and I didn’t want to get tangled up in Lyon after dark in the rain, so we stopped at Vienne. For entertainment, I Googled Vienne and discovered our proximity to the Côte Rôtie District, which I immediately determined to explore the next morning. It was sunny in the morning as we wandered down the west side of the Rhône as far as Condrieu. I especially like Côte Rôties, so I wanted to purchase a couple local examples, which would not be available in the U.S. We found a nice looking wine shop in Condrieu right on Hwy D386. The owner spoke perfect English and took care of my request with two not-too-expensive bottles, one to age and one to enjoy sooner. My wife explored the white wines and learned that the local white is Viognier, which she loves. We left with a recommended bottle of “Condrieu” for just slightly more than we usually pay for white wine. She opened that bottle the other day and WOW! - What a wine! We tried to replace that “Condrieu” at Kermit Lynch in Berkeley, CA and had sticker-shock. My wife vows to fill her suitcase with it next year. You are in for a treat.
    La Bouteillerie
    43 Route National 86
    69420 Condrieu, FR

    7 Replies
    1. re: BN1

      Thank you very much for this. I was just talking to my wife about where to go, and I now think I might do Verenay, Ampuis, and Condrieu. I was hoping to find at least one good wine shop in that area, so I will definitely stop by that shop. Thanks again.


      1. re: smkit

        E Guigal's home is in Ampuis. You might be able to score a tour and tasting if you email ahead of time. I would recommend it! ;)

        1. re: ChefJune

          I would love to get a tour there. I'm just afraid that with the price of their bottles from that estate I'd walk away a lot poorer man ; )

          That is a good idea though. I suppose they will be getting ready for harvest in early September. Is it harder to get tours during this time?

          1. re: smkit

            not sure when vendange starts this year. could be later than that. It bears an inquiry...

            1. re: ChefJune

              Unfortunately, E. Guigal just wrote back and they are not conducting tours because of the grape harvest. They resume around the 15th of October. I think I will have to stick with wine shops and driving around the countryside.

              1. re: smkit

                I visited Jasmin in Ampuis last year and they were very welcoming and tasting was free. Also, their wine is a very good deal for cote rotie and it's easy to find just across the tracks on the left from the center square. I think I purchased their 2006 for 22 euro per bottle de-taxed.

      2. re: BN1

        Just a follow up on this. I wrote the man at La Bouteillerie and asked about local restaurants to stop at while touring, and here is what he recommended.

        Le Cercle des Vignerons (Ampuis)

        Bistrot de Serine (on the RN 86 in Ampuis)

        Le Beau Rivage (Condrieu)

        l'Atelier d'Antoine (Chonas l'Amballan)

      3. If you finally include the option of going northwards towards the Beaujolais area, you should drop in to the Cave Cooperative in Pouilly Vinzelles . This is a "cave cooperative" well above the norm with very fair pricing – try their Pouilly-Vinzelles Vieilles Vignes if you are looking for decent white burgundy for under €10. Notwithstanding the name of the website, the reds are equally interesting.

        It's about a km from exit 29 (Mâcon Sud) on the A6 and is easy to locate. Worth noting is the very good local restaurant attached to the cave where you will get a great lunch – not sure if they are open for dinner.

        2 Replies
        1. re: kerriar

          Thanks for the recommendation. I would love to make it north of Lyon too. I'm going to have to start mapping my trip out and seeing how many days of wine touring I want/need.

          I remember going to a producers coop (I think) in Côtes du Ventoux a while back and it was a pretty slick operation and fun.


          1. re: kerriar

            Wonderful stories and info.
            When I first came to France, for work I was often sent to St Chamond, not far from Verenay, Ampuis, Condrieu. Since I considered St Chamond to be the armpit of France, the second I could, I took the first train back to Paris. I remember the young vintners from the area were a generous, partying bunch, and loved to give invitations to wine-tasting balloon rides etc, which I never did. O just shoot me now.