Test Kitchen - Red Medicine
- mpken Aug 22, 2010 12:11 AM
We went to Test Kitchen tonight for the Red Medicine run. Food was interesting and the drinks were creative. Favorites of the night were the fried Brussels sprouts and the tomatoes with silken tofu. The protein courses are promising and warrant trying when Red Medicine actually opens. Saigon Tartin and Beef Bavette would be very satisfying in a large format. The beef bavette with bacon XO sauce would make a killer nigiri sushi.
The desserts really shine here and Jordan Khan's touch is evident. The coconut bavarois was reminiscent of his work at Mina's XIV, with that wicked peanut croquant (much like a silky Butterfinger center). Perfectly ripe peaches, cream, basil, and tonic sorbet was a perfect finish to the meal with a balance of flavors that left a good impression.
Pacing was quicker than expected as courses overlapped up to 3 dishes on the table at one time. Perhaps it was because we were the first table seated, but much faster than we'd like. Some tables had good pacing, while others may have had too much of a gap between courses. Working out the kinks still, I guess. The meal did feel a bit rushed and the fact that we were out of there in a bit over an hour attests to that.
Cocktails were creative, but didn't have the WOW factor that the drinks at Rivera have, even though Julian Cox is in charge of the bar program here too. The cocktails seem to be still evolving. Funny thing is we headed to Rivera afterward for cocktails and were duly satisfied.
Red Medicine should be well evolved and fine tuned after this stint at Test Kitchen and we're looking forward to the official opening.
Parking tip: If you're part of the first seating, parking on the street is ample and free after 6pm.
8117 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90046
i went last night as well. i thought it was very inconsistent. i didn't have an issue with dishes coming too fast but i did have an issue with the lack of flavor for most of the food.
the good: the beef was ridiculously good. the beef and eggplant was as good of a dish as i've had in a long time. the bavarois was incredible. maybe the best desert i've ever had. saigon tartine was very good. nice take on a bahn mi. silken tofu was very good as well. an interesting play on a caprese salad.
the rest were very inconsistent or bland. that's outside the brussel sprouts that were way too salty.
regardless, the concept of test kitchen and 12 courses for $40 make this a hell of a deal. i may give red medicine a run after they get their legs under them. however, i'll definitely be back to test kitchen.