recommendations for st germain de pres, paris
My sister and I are taking our mother to paris for her 80th birthday, and are looking for recommendations for places to eat and/or watch the world go by. First time for mom and neither my sis nor I have been in many, many moons (think 10-15 years). Mom is enamored of the romance and history of paris, so anything she can brag to her friends about would be good. Sister and I just love great food...
re: John Talbott
I defend those who want a resto in a given neighborhood. Firstly, it is unpleasant to go into a smelly metro after a good meal. Secondly many people - starting with yours truly - consider the walk home after a good meal an extension, and enhancement, of the evening's pleasure. Lastly, one of the diners is 80 years young. If she wants St Germain, St Germain it should be.
I wonder what restaurants would impress the mother's friends. Most of my friends have never heard of the restaurants we patronize until well after the fact. In fact, our hotel man laughs that he often reads about them after he has made our reservations. (Thanks to Figaroscope, JT, CH et al) So I'm wondering what do most people think of as quintessentially Left Bank Paris.
Maybe a mid-morning coffee or tea at Cafe Flore. http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide...
A lunch at Deux Magots. http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide...
Afternoon coffee and a pastry at Laduree on rue Bonaparte. http://www.laduree.fr/public_fr/maiso...
Dinner. Hmm. I think I have to go with Allard. http://www.paris-eating.com/596.htm
Perhaps her friends have heard of Le Comptoir? Lunch or try booking for dinner. http://www.paris-paris-paris.com/pari...
And a taste of yesterday, Les Charpentiers. http://www.paris-eating.com/618.htm
I'm thinking that mangeur's response may be in line with what the OP is looking for. Re the "hmmm . . . Allard," I'll say: We've been twice but not for a few years, and I know it gets knocked a bit on these boards, but it oozes charm, we still recall fondly the lamb's shoulder with olives, and two groups of friends of ours who recently went totally loved it.
If you are looking for something very small with contryside feel about it, I'll also mention -- just north of St. Sulpice -- "Au Bon Saint- Pourçain." Last year there we enjoyed a simple dinner of marinated leeks, rabbit with tarragon in aspic, chicken in a tarragon cream sauce, and blanquette de veau -- washed down with a reasonably priced Irancy. It's a good value. The solo businessman dining next to us didn't realize it was "cash only" -- and they let him go after he promised to return the next day with cash. That tells you something about the feel of this little place. 10 bis, rue Servandoni, 01.43.54.93.63.
Also in the SGdP area, for breakfast: "La Patisserie Viennoise." Great hot chocolate is served at this little salon de thé near the medical school; fine pastries, too. 8 rue de l’Ecole de Medecine, 01.43.26.60.48. -- Jake
If you are staying in the Saint-Germain-des-Pres area, it is a short (very short) walk to Ile de la Cite (Notre Dame) and Ile St. Louis where there are many wonderful bistrots to be discovered plus the best ice cream in Paris (Berthillon.) Or walk a bit more into the Beaubourg (Centre Pompidou) area. I would avoid the Greek restaurants and their ilk in the small touristy streets of the left bank, as the food is fair at best, and overpriced just for tourists. Specific recommendations by others can be iffy at best, as they are based on someone's particular tastes and point of view. Try this: look for smaller out of the way bistrots in the neighborhood where you are staying and in the areas where you tour, read their posted menu (French law requires that restaurants post menus with prices) walk in and take a look around. If the diners seem to be having a great time and the waiters seem happy, you probably will not be disappointed. If the place is the opposite, be afraid. Be very afraid. The other thing about recommendations is that a small place someone fell in love with last year may not be there this year. Just think of what the economy has done to dining out in this country. My daughter, who lives in France, tells us that some wonderful restaurants have gone. Take a chance, but most of all, explore and enjoy!
Mangeur has a point.
For small bistros with decent bistro food and bistro ambiance in St Germain, I like the ones on rue Guisarde (au Machon 'Henri, Brasserie Fernand). Try to go on rugby night. Rue Guisarde is crazzzzzy.
Les Papilles too can be easily walked from St Germain.