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Aug 13, 2010 02:31 PM

Ain't Dere No More--St. Claude, St. Roch

Kind of a strange request--I'm writing a piece of fiction in which an old man wanders off in search of a delicious something and finds that it's no longer there. All of my lost goodies are too recent for him, and my parents' are in the wrong places, but I'm thinking along the lines of a roll-mop or a jelly doughnut from Long's. Anybody got anything you'd love to have right now if you could? Anywhere walkably up-river from Esplanade, lakeside of Rampart would be particularly of interest. I'll even name the old guy after you if you want. Well, maybe :)

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  1. In some further research, I came across Moe's Pie Shop, which was on N. Claiborne before the 1-10 was jammed in. Anybody remember it?

    15 Replies
    1. re: LostBread

      Don't recall Moe's but in the doughnot realm, were I struck with dementia and wandering, I'd be looking for Picou's, out by Da Track. Also Maylie's on Poydras....Ruby Red's on Esplanade (burger joint) Jaeger's on Elysian Fields.

      Just a few of the long-ago dreams that have gone "poof!"

      1. re: hazelhurst

        LostBread: There used to be a wonderful restaurant on St. Claude, Mandich, that served textbook Creole cuisine. Beautiful oyster, shrimp and fish dishes. It makes me sad every time I drive by there and remember the good old days...

        1. re: sanglier

          And that just brings up T. Pittari's....and the lost loves out at Da Lake....

          1. re: hazelhurst

            Wasn't the last incarnation of the "original" Martin Brothers poboy shop at the corner of St. Claude & Touro? That sucker was open 24 hrs a day. Might be a nice way to work the iconic sandwich into the story. Sorry it's in the wrong direction for your intended stroll. The place closed in the 70s.

            1. re: Hungry Celeste

              There was a Martin Brothers at Downman Rd and Chef Hwy I remember going to as a young child in the early to perhaps mid 70's. Not sure though when they closed.

              1. re: Hungry Celeste

                That's not a bad spot--remember anything about the place or the po-boys that I can't make up from thinking about Domilise's?

            2. re: sanglier

              There is a new place in slidell on front street...Sapphire. It is affiliated with Mandich.

              1. re: lm2028

                I found out about this a few weeks ago. From what I hear it is wonderful. Preserving Mandich's is very important. I hope it has a sense of "place."

            3. re: hazelhurst

              Ah yes, Maylie's and Ruby Reds. Then there was Marti's, classic local cooking.

              What was the name of the house off St Charles that fed family style and there was two set seatings? I think it was a woman's name.

              We're doing good on restaurants but not that well on specific foods. I guess one of the problems is that iconic recipes here don't usually disappear. One I haven't found is someone who makes those thread thin fried onion rings like those that were made at the White House in Bucktown.

              It was a great day for me when Hubig's came back after K.

              1. re: collardman

                Re: the house off St Charles..Corinne Dunbar's

                  1. re: Suzy Wong

                    Merci, y'all. It was Corrine Dunbar's

                  2. re: collardman

                    Yo0u are right to raise the specifics...I'd say Anna Mae Maylie's Eggs Remoulade and maybe the Hurstel's stuffed artichoke. ANd Eddie's gumbo, of course.

                    1. re: hazelhurst

                      Mmm. Eggs Remoulade and stuffed artichoke intrigue. Is that a hard-boiled egg. Tell me more about this maylie's...

                      1. re: LostBread

                        Sorry for the delay. Yes, eggs remoulade are hard cooked eggs, halved, and served with Anna Mae's version which has relish in it. There is a recipe for it in, I think, Roy Guste's book on New Orleans Restaurants. My copy is in storage but I could roust it out of the library---if that is, in fact, the book I think it is in.

                        Maylie's itself was a creole place on Poydras and O'Keefe. Part of it was seized for the widening of O'Keefe but the rest of it rattled along until the 1980's. It became Smith & Wollensky for awhile. It had all teh great stanards..turtle soup, brisket etc. I miss it every time I pass the building.

              2. Don't know much about jelly doughnuts, but I'd give my left foot for a plate of red beans at Buster Holmes. Sigh.

                1. Or a plate of fried chicken at Chez Helene. Dang! This kind of question induces nothing but pure torture. I WILL NOT think about it anymore!

                  1. Y'all are the best, and I'm sorry if I've induced particularly painful nostalgia. If anyone's a real masochist, and wants to go into loving detail, I'd love to hear it.

                    2 Replies
                    1. re: LostBread

                      I have some restaurant/bar guides from the 40's on, I could check if you'd like...

                      1. re: Suzy Wong

                        That would be awesome! Now I'm thinking anything we lost from N. Claiborne might be perfect. Can't think of a better destroyer than the I-10.

                    2. Lost - Are you looking for the 1940's/1950/1960's?? You might try posting this request on the forums, the Marigny/Bywater one in particular - to get old restaurant and bar names. This area -St. Claude & Roch -is now being touted as the "New Marigny".

                      The area N/lakeside of St Claude (formerly Good Children) & east of Treme is in the 8th ward - still going strong in da' hood is the St. Rock Tavern, located behind the old Lamas St. Roch Market (a cast iron gem for decades - another example of wasted opportunity and $$ by the Nagin administration). About 5 blocks from the cemetary. Also there is the Saturn Bar on St. Claude @ Clouet, maybe out of your walking area though. Both have patron's that have been in the area decades that might have names.

                      As far as bakeries, the only old one that's still operating is Alois Binders on Frenchman @ N. Rampart St. I think maybe 100 yrs old. They have old style goodies as well as French bread:
                      Alois Binders,
                      940 Frenchman St
                      NOLA 504/947-1111
                      It's X from Loretta's Pralines. Best Sweet Potato cookies

                      Another source for info on old bakeries, could be Larry Moeklin of Swiss Confectionary on St. Charles Ave. His family, like alot of the other old bakeries (Gendusa's), were located in the Marigny. (The old Swiss on Frenchman might be where d.b.a. or the Blue Nile is now.) Swiss does fabulous wedding cakes. Larry & Rhonda used to live in the Bywater.

                      Till the 70's there was Martin Brothers Restaurant, 1940 St. Claude. Bennie, Clovis & Lehmann Martin ran it - this was where the New Orleans "poor-boy" originated. Really truly. It was a 24 hr place filled with all types of characters - lots of musicians would go there for dinner after their set (Pete Fountain, Al Hirt) and it was integrated before most places did.

                      Recently there have been 2 bars "uncovered" - one on Burgundy and on Franklin, both in the Marigny rectangle. When both properties were being renovated and the exterior wood taken off underneath was the old exterior bar signage - colors just intense as they were when painted 50 years ago. No sunlight to cause fading. "Dixie beer .25 cents". Just fabulous.

                      It's eerie that you mentioned a "roll-mop or a jelly", as the 8th ward was home of Jelly Roll Morton. Good luck.

                      3 Replies
                      1. re: savory south

                        Wow. Thank you for all that wonderful advice. I wish I was home right now so I could go do some research on the ground, but I guess I'll have to settle for If you take pictures of those uncovered bars or know of any around, I'd love if you could post.

                        Martin Bros sounds promising. And god, sweet potato cookies. If it weren't so darn hot I'd try to invent a batch right now.

                        This whole thing is taking me down a rabbit hole--maybe I should be writing a culinary history instead. Somebody should.

                        1. re: LostBread

                          Didn't Tom Fitzmorris just write a book of this sort?

                          1. re: lenwood

                            When I first lived in New Orleans I'd leave the Playboy Club (I worked there) and go through the French Market and drink brandy at 2 in the morning with the Cajun guys who brought up goodies for the market. Corinne Dunbar's was wonderful. I would have lunch at the Caribbean Room at the Pontchartrain Hotel - their specialty was Mile High Pie. Delmonico's on St. Charles was wonderful (way before Emeril days). Also Buster Holmes on Burgundy with its long trestle tables. La Louisiane was great in the olden days when I'd drink champagne cocktails at the bar. If I put my mind to it I could remember a lot more - those were the days! I also used to hang out at Mohogany Hall on Bourbon, you could hear jazz every afternoon in the olden days.

                            Emeril's Restaurant
                            800 Tchoupitoulas, New Orleans, LA 70130