Frenchie's
I had a lovely dinner at Frenchie's last year. Is it still as good as I remember?
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We made reservations for two of the nights we were in Paris last month.
What the heck, I figured, if it's so great, why not? I've pretty much 'eaten it all' in my day and am just looking for fresh, well prepared local/seasonal food, which this place celebrates. I've had my fill of showy places which don't live up to the hype.
FYI we had no trouble making reservations two months in advance by emailing our concierge to please do it for us. She was delighted to help out and secured the spots with no difficulty.
The food was lovely, fresh and delicious but there was absolutely no variation in the menu from one evening to the next, the following week. Not complaining, since everything was excellent, and, I guess I can attest to its consistency, but the idea that the chef is whimsically making it up according to what he finds at the market that day is not so. I thought that claim was a little far-fetched, since I have a son who is a chef and I know the ins and outs of running a kitchen. I think most people go only once, so come away with that impression. However, the ingredients are definitely in season! No shortage of strawberries and asparagus that week.
That said, the place is friendly enough, comfortable and charming and the food is terrific, reasonably priced and sufficient in portion size (unlike Spring). There are two choices for each course, so you can share the dishes and enjoy it all. We had starters of papardelle with a Tuscan meat sauce (which I had to pry from my husband's greedy hands) and a delicately smoked filet of fish decorated with cucumbers on an avocado sauce, followed by a lovely sauteed fillet of fish atop a kind of tapenade of chopped olives and other goodies (I licked the plate...sort of) or slices of fillet of veal in an amazing sauce. The desserts: either a tangy lemon tart seared like a creme brulee atop a delicate puddle of caramel sauce or the purest panne cotta floating on fresh fruit sauce and berries. The cheese course was a thin wedge of an amazing blue cheese with flakes of lemon zest on top, accompanied by some Amarena cherries. The bread and butter are incredible.
They stagger the guests, so there is never a feeling of being packed in like sardines (again, unlike Spring). The sat the two of us at a table for four the first evening. The second time we were joined by a young 'foodie' couple who were extremely delighted.
The young chef came out a couple of times to say hello....very unpretentious. HIs little son was running around for a few minutes one night. Very sweet.
A clientele of young local couples and older, sophisticated tourists (like us, ha! ha!)
I'd go again in a minute.›1 Reply -
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re: mangeur
In France, as you know Mangeur, the website and even the chalkboard/ardoise/menu posted outside don't necessarily reflect today's choices.
They give you a hint of things, but since, say, someone like Daniel Rose of Spring, serves different meals every day, one must be flexible (think Alice Waters.) But said-same Daniel, says his wine list is now on his site.
And while Americans depend on the internet and resto websites to tell them everything, it's simply not the case here.
If you must have one dish, one meal, then you need to consult the book of about the same name.-
re: John Talbott
I was just suggesting the impossibility of current and correct website menus, particularly in market driven kitchens. I, personally, find it alarming when a website offers what is purported to be an etched-in-stone carte because to maintain one requires the use of other than the freshest of produce.
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re: mangeur
Many restaurants all over the world update their website menus daily. It takes less time than rewriting the ardoise. But I agree that if you're booked solid and you're counting on the hoards of tourists who'll be convinced to dine at 19:30 (why not 17:30? or 16:30?) then there's no reason to make an effort.
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A head's up:
I went by Frenchie's today to snag a couple of rez's and Gregory Marchand told me as of 2011 he would no longer be serving lunch but rather two services at dinner.›4 Replies -
Several on this board have implied that Frenchie's is not what it was when it opened. I can only say that my one experience in May was wonderful and I'd return again over any other place for lunch. (Only had lunch and can't speak to dinner.) My plans for our next Paris trip include begging for a reservation as soon as possible after arrival.
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re: John Talbott
Hmmmm. Maybe I should change my screen name to oddmanout. We were quite taken with Frenchie when we first visited. But each subsequent meal (4) has failed to get our positive attention. In fact, I am holding September reservations that I am probably going to cancel when they reopen. A chaque son goût.
I write this not to be negative but to put some perspective on the Frenchie as, to use JT's simile, Holy Grail. It was an amazing value play when it opened but now I'd rather spend an additional 5€ or so elsewhere.
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Had a very fine meal there this past Friday. The balance of the gaspacho and the truffled honey on the cheese still come to mind but every other thing was equal to expectations. One table of loud English-speakers was jammed in that corner near the toilette so they weren't too much of a problem. The server was a pleasure.
A treat in early August when there are so few options.
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