Chez Panisse Cafe - RANT
Since we couldn't secure a reservation at Chez Panisse, we opted for the Cafe instead for our rare East Bay adventure. I know there are a lot of supporters out there for the restaurant. However, perhaps it was an off night for the restaurant, I was definitely underwhlemed the entire meal. The goat cheese with salad was average to start. Quail for main was disappointing. The bird was not cleaned properly, I could vividly taste the blood and ruptured organs. Moreover, skin was soggy by the time it reached our table. The night ended with chocolate pave with rum cream. Again, average tasting and overpriced.
Another note about the restaurant, I walked by the open kitchen couple of times and all kitchen staffs look like they can't wait to get out of there. Seems like I would've had a better night at Gregoire on cedar street instead.
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Chez Panisse
1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94709
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I live in the Atlanta area and visit the Bay Area often. Last year, I went to Chez Panisse for the first time. We went for lunch, and I don't recall and don't feel like looking up whether it was the restaurant or cafe (cafe, I think?), but it was upstairs. I'd been looking forward to the visit for months. And, it was lovely. The space was beautiful, our server was friendly and helpful and efficient and cool, I was happy with my wine and every course (we were a later seating and they did run out of the entree that most appealed to me, and all but one of the items left featured a prominent ingredient that doesn't appeal to me, so I ended up with most excellent homemade sausages). It felt like a pilgrimage.
But I wasn't "wowed" and I wanted to be. When I talked to my travel and dining companion about it, I realized the reason. At the time, I was several months into being very involved in my local food advocacy community and had been fortunate enough to attend many events featuring top chefs from my region putting their best foot forward. Frankly, the multi-chef , all local ingredient dinner at a conference I attended wowed me more than my meal at CP.
But it wasn't their fault - CP did nothing wrong. To me, it was just that they're not the only game in town (or in the country) anymore. By doing and promoting what they do so well, they've made it possible for so many others to follow suit. And while that accessibility to fresh, local, lovingly prepared "gourmet" food is a gift to people all over the country, it means anyone who wants to be "wowed" can be in their own backyard, or at least within a short drive, and at a variety of price levels.
So, I'd absolutely go back. But I'd also be just as (or more) likely to check out a new restaurant headed by a chef who was inspired by the groundwork laid by CP.
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Chez Panisse
1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94709›2 Replies-
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re: Robert Lauriston
True. CP is no longer unique, but the formula of using fresh seasonal ingredients in simple preparations is still a solid basis for a good meal. I had a delightful simple dinner at one of Gordon Ramsey's casual pubs in London (Limehouse), and he has a similar vision. Pork Cheeks over a bowl of pureed roasted turnips - Delicious.....
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I'm sorry about your experience. I had a good meal here a couple weeks ago. Definitely not as good as some in the past, but definitely nothing offensive either. The fried chicken leg was outstanding! The cherry tomatoes in my salad weren't as sweet as those usually served at CP, and the fruits in the stuffed-baked nectarine and plum tart in particular were very tart. Then again, I haven't found any good fruit this cold summer. I think it was a mistake putting them on the menu.
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re: SteveG
I had a beautiful, gorgeous, in fact, perfect, nectarine this week also, at Locanda da Eva, but Kimchee said his/her lunch was several weeks ago. While I do agree they should serve the best available at CP given their suppliers, I also recognize that it has been a challenging (and late) year for getting great stone fruit. As for plums, they tend to be tart even when fully ripe, especially Santa Rosa plums.
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Locanda da Eva
2826 Telegraph Ave, Berkeley, CA 94705-
re: susancinsf
If CP is getting its stone fruit from Frog Hollow, I've noticed that this season they've had a lot of high acid varieties. Many prefer them. It's possible that the nectarine in question was a tart variety, though it's also possible that it was not fully ripe. Of course this could have been rectified with additional sugar...
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I had a very good to great (if not exceptional) meal there in late May. Walked in off the street with no reservation at lunch on a Sat (it was a zoo in the ghetto...long ass line at Cheeseboard and Gregoire) and was seated in 10 mins due to a no show. Had halibut with bread crumbs and some kind of beans. Maybe part of the deal was walking in w/o a res but everything was as good as ever (fish perfectly prepared) and the staff polite and happy. Even at a higher price CP Cafe absolutely rocked in comparison to the other choices.
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re: oohlala
Actually that wouldn't be a bad idea. I've never had bad seafood at CP. They handle fresh and delicate items very well. One of the best meals l have ever remembered (from anywhere) was a lobster tail wrapped in fig leaves and cooked in their wood-burning oven. It was so simple but awesome.
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re: ML8000
just wanted to throw in words of agreement, though i'd only eaten once downstairs... my meal was seafood focused and delicious though potentially over salted by a touch. from the fish, to the scallops (which were prepared better than at TFL a few days before), the seafood broth.... stunning flavours and great texture.
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I had a similar experience three weeks ago. My Little Gem and golden beets salad with Green Goddess dressing, Chicken al Mattone and Hazelnut ice cream were good, but hardly stellar. The beets were especially sweet and the first bites of ice cream dreamy. I had better ice cream the next day at Ici (pink peppercorn).
Every other time, I have been to the Cafe, there has been one or two really exceptional dishes. However, this one lackluster experience certainly won't keep me from returning. No kitchen can please you every time.








