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LRB article on "decline of french cuisine"

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i dunno if there is an easy way to search for whether something like this is already posted --
if not, may be of interest:

Down to the Last Cream Puff
Steven Shapin
Au Revoir to All That: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine by Michael Steinberger
http://www.lrb.co.uk/v32/n15/steven-s...

heh:
The new cuisine revolution needed its Trotsky, but what it got in Bocuse was its Stalin.

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