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Where to shop in Nice and the surrounding areas?

jack van praag Jul 26, 2010 09:21 AM

I am popping down to Nice/Vence for a couple of weeks and am looking for good places to stock up on delicious things.
I have searched the board but not come up with much, I am looking for markets, fishmongers, cheesemongers, quirky specialist vendors etc and great bread.
I am looking for the real thing, genuinely great and French produce, no vegetables from Spain or Kenya etc, as one so often sees in Paris, even at Batignolles/ Blvd Raspail etc.

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  1. Parigi RE: jack van praag Jul 26, 2010 11:04 AM

    I had a very good meal at the ferme-auberge Le Jas du Soupié between Seillans and Callian north of Cannes. My roast chicken was so tender it could be cut by a fork.
    After the lunch we bought its homemade confit d'onion that was excellent. The farm produces and sells organic maraîcher veg and fruits and aromates.

    But when it comes to markets, all markets will have French products plus products from other countries. You won't find a market that excludes all non-French products.

    1 Reply
    1. re: Parigi
      Jninda RE: Parigi Oct 3, 2010 11:10 PM


      We will be in Monaco / Nice for one day and need a good lunch recommendation for lunch on a Monday. (cruising) Any ideas?

    2. beaulieu RE: jack van praag Jul 26, 2010 11:40 AM

      The Rue du Marché in Vence is excellent. The covered market in Antibes is charming with nice shops on the streets leading off of it. The Marché de Forville in Cannes is more comprehensive. The market in Ventimiglia and nearby shops are excellent with many local items you will not find in France and better fish; but don't go on Friday or Sunday.

      3 Replies
      1. re: beaulieu
        menton1 RE: beaulieu Jul 26, 2010 01:31 PM

        The Ventimiglia Market is awesome (even with the difficult parking). However, if you don't go on Friday you won't find it, because the Ventimiglia Market only operates on Fridays!

        1. re: menton1
          beaulieu RE: menton1 Jul 27, 2010 05:04 AM

          You are usually right on, but not this time. On Fridays there is an enormous market all over the center of Ventimiglia; it specializes in knockoffs of name brands etc. Huge crowds go there. In the center of Ventimiglia, a short walk south of the train station, is a covered market selling fresh vegetables and fruit. In the back is an excellent fish market. Along the walls prepared foods, cheeses, meat and pastas are sold. To see my report on it go to: http://epicures.wordpress.com/2007/09.... This market operates every day, but Sunday. However it is overcrowded of Fridays as a spillover from the clothing and accessories market.

          1. re: beaulieu
            menton1 RE: beaulieu Jul 27, 2010 07:55 AM

            That's very interesting, Beaulieu. A fairly good secret, this daily market! I will definitely take a look in September on our next visit! The Friday market when I visited it did have many food vendors mixed in with the clothing & accessories, though; including cheese, salumi, and produce as well. That's why I thought you meant that one. But thanks for the tip on this daily market!

            I've never been, but I hear that the Marché Forville in Cannes is also fantastic for produce, fish and meats. I think it's every day but Monday.

            Also, it's not that huge, but the Cap D'Ail Wednesday market has the highest quality produce I've ever seen in a Riviera market.

      2. jack van praag RE: jack van praag Jul 29, 2010 08:39 AM

        Thanks for all the wonderful and detailed advice!! I am going for two weeks so should have time to see all your suggestions.
        I will be sure to report back.....

        1. ChefJune RE: jack van praag Jul 30, 2010 09:25 AM

          "delicious things" in Nice, for me defiinitely include the Alziari shop in Old Town for amazing olive oil, lavender honey, olives -- and Confiserie Auer (pronounced "Oh-ay") for their fabulous jams.

          1. jack van praag RE: jack van praag Aug 8, 2010 12:04 PM

            Has anyone been to the fish market in Nice? I.e the early morning one? Is it open to the public (I would buying fish for 20, not just wandering around and getting in the way)? All advice on that would be welcome!
            Also, I am almost out of ingredients and would like to go market shopping tomorrow but it looks like most are shut on Mondays. Are there any good markets (maybe some of the ones you mentioned) that are open on Monday mornings?

            1. jack van praag RE: jack van praag Aug 8, 2010 12:06 PM

              One week in, the Rue du Marche in Vence is indeed excellent. Also in Vence, there is a Vencois market on Fridays whish is rather good. Some fantastic produce and also a guy with a portable wood-fired oven selling socca.

              3 Replies
              1. re: jack van praag
                menton1 RE: jack van praag Aug 8, 2010 12:10 PM

                Any good restaurants to recommend, Jack?

                1. re: jack van praag
                  Parigi RE: jack van praag Aug 8, 2010 12:14 PM

                  The socca reminds me: any good pan bagnat place?

                  1. re: jack van praag
                    Fay RE: jack van praag Aug 8, 2010 03:51 PM

                    Have you been to Marche Buffa, the old covered market on Rue de Buffa and Rue Gambetta? I haven't been to Nice in a few years, but used to visit regularly, and this was my "go to" market for just about everything - meat, fish, produce etc. Only open in the mornings - not sure about Mondays, though. It is smaller and much less "touristy" than the market in the old city, with fabulous quality and selection. If you are in a pinch for ingredients tomorrow (Monday), I suggest you head out to the food wonderland that is the Galeries Lafayette supermarket at Cap 3000, just outside Nice in St. Laurent de Var. It is gargantuan and you will definitely find whatever it is you are looking for. My children once counted something like 40 varieties of butter in the dairy section.

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