Auberge between Lyon and Nice for one night?
Hi France hounds,
I'm planning a trip to Lyon and Nice for October. We're renting a car for the drive from Lyon to Nice, mainly so that we can see some parts of Provence that we missed on our last trip there. We're really interested in staying overnight in a traditional farm/auberge that serves yummy food. I've done some diligent Chow searches and this recommend for the Ferme Auberge de Barbegal from Parigi looks like it's exactly what we're looking for:
Before we book, I was just wondering if anyone else might have any other suggestions for us to consider? Again, we're mainly looking for good local fresh food and don't care about fancy rooms, etc (we're saving the splurge meals for the other places). I've already got some great Lyon and Nice suggestions, so this will complete the puzzle.
A good stopping point about midway would be the lovely Moustiers-Ste-Marie, in the Alpes de Haute Provence department. Close to the Gorges du Verdon.
A charming, affordable, interesting place in town is the Auberge de la Ferme Rose, run by the VERY affable Kako Vagh. This is the brother of a very famous artisan tile designer in Salernes, Alain Vagh. Alain has lent his deft artistic talents to this hotel, and the result is a delight. No restaurant, but in town there are several excellent bistros. There is the renowned Bastide de Moustiers, run by Alan Ducasse, but that is very expensive.
I know you will love the Auberge de la Ferme Rose!
That also sounds fabulous, but I was hoping for an auberge that has a really great (good home cooking as opposed to super expensive) restaurant attached. We're staying 4 nights in Lyon and a week in an apartment in Nice, so I really wanted to experience one night in the deep Provencal countryside, since this is the only leg of the journey when we'll have a car. (And we raise chickens, so I was hoping that my husband could converse with a French chicken farmer...:)
Besides the Barbegal which I swear by, another beautiful ferme-auberge with b&b rooms in Provence is le Castelas in Sivergues, in the Luberon.
Setting: The site of Le Castelas is breathtakinglly beautiful. You can have your lunch on one of the long outdoors tables. A little goat may jump on it.
Food: Barbegal is better. Except for Sunday lunch, le Castelas only serves a cold lunch with the farm's own jambon de pays, goat cheese, salad plus a tarte dessert. Somewhat expensive at 25 euro, but I guess you pay for that land's end view too…
Location: Le Castelas is near several beautiful villages perchés but are not near the freeway like Barbegal. The Barbegal farm is near the Barbegal Roman mills, a site that I sometimes prefer to Pont du Gard, and so much less visited. It is also just a 10-min drive to beautiful Arles with its own concentration of good eateries.
Rooms: I have not been inside the Castelas rooms, but the owner of Le Castelas showed me the rooms and they are quite nice, nicer than the website pics.
Thanks again Parigi! I think we're going with Barbegal, even though Le Castelas looks fabulous. We spent a week in Lourmarin a few years ago, but only took a quick trip through Arles - the Roman mills sound cool. And my husband is really excited about the farm.
Will be sure to report back when we return!
Just an update...Barbegal didn't reply to my 2 emails (in French), so I started looking again and ended up booking this place:
It's exactly what I was looking for (including the chickens!), so I will let all the France Chowhounds know if it's chow worthy. I figured we'd give it a try. We'll have just left Lyon so it will face some tough competition!
Now on to the Lyon-Nice list.
So far for Lyon I have Restaurant En Mets Fais Ce Qu’il Te Plait and Le Garet. Still working up the Nice list...This vacation food planning is a job in and of itself!