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Naples On a Sunday

mlukan Jul 14, 2010 01:02 PM

I will be in Naples on a Sunday in October. I wanted to go to L'Europeo di Mattozzi,
Di Matteo and Da Michele for some great food, but I noticed none are open on Sundays. Does anyone have any lunch recommendations for Naples on a Sunday. No preferences except for being great Italian food and reasonable prices.

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  1. jen kalb RE: mlukan Jul 14, 2010 02:05 PM

    The historic center of Naples is relatively quiet on sundays - many stores are closed, etc and many of the little family places all over the city also

    Some Places from the CHOW Restaurants page that seem to be open are
    Vadinchenia (lunch only)
    Il Stanze del Gusto (we had a fine late Sunday lunch here last October)
    Il Cerasiello
    Around Piazza Dante, Dante e Beatrice and also I think Al 53 or the Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba may be open

    then down more toward the sea (that area can be fairly dead in cool weather)
    Don Salvatore a Mergellina
    Amici Miei (Chiaia - lunch only)
    Da Ettore
    Il Bersagliera

    Hope you will be in Naples at least overnight so you can see the bustling markets, street life etc.The art museum at Capodimonte is a nice sunday bus ride up the hill and is one of Italy's best.

    2 Replies
    1. re: jen kalb
      gleewms RE: jen kalb Jul 15, 2010 03:25 AM

      I live in Naples, and am glad you are coming to see the city. Be aware, DaMickele is in a pretty dodgy neighborhood, so be sure to be in and out during the daytime. If you's prefer a more elegant meal, try Zee Teresa on the waterfront, or the restaurants sharing the island near the Castel dell'Ovo (Egg Castle) [avoid Ciro - it can get too busy]. If you really want Neopolitan pizza, skip DaMichele (I know it's old and Rick Steves loves it) and go to Canta Napoli on Via Chiatamone

      1. re: gleewms
        jen kalb RE: gleewms Jul 15, 2010 07:34 AM

        Great to get the local input.! How do you think Cantanapoli stacks up vis a vis Brandi? does it offer dishes othe than pizza?

    2. g
      gleewms RE: mlukan Jul 15, 2010 03:27 AM

      If you are traveling by car, consider LaVigna. It is an agritourismo on Via Montenuovo Licola Patria, just northwest of the city. It will take you 25 minutes to get there, but, you will dine in a vineyard and eat wine and cheese made on site.

      13 Replies
      1. re: gleewms
        erica RE: gleewms Jul 15, 2010 06:30 AM

        Thank you for the tip on La Vigna. Because you are a local, I wonder if you have any good eating places/agriturismo with rooms, or hotels close to either, that I might consider on a Sunday after arrival at Naples airport. Ideally, this would be anyplace from the airport south, towards Salerno... we will be arriving from the US and would not want to attempt to reach our first destination the same day after the long flights...

        1. re: erica
          zerlina RE: erica Jul 15, 2010 07:02 AM

          It would be a detour if you're heading to Salerno, but I'd be tempted by this agriturismo that raises a special kind of pig and makes its own cheese:

          Luciano Pignataro lists it:

          1. re: zerlina
            bob96 RE: zerlina Jul 15, 2010 07:58 PM

            Quite a detour in almost the opposite direction from Salerno, up on the Caserta-Benevento border. Lovely area (Guardia Sanframondi in particular), but at least an hour ride each way from Capodichino.

          2. re: erica
            jen kalb RE: erica Jul 15, 2010 09:25 PM

            how far south do you want to get? As I recollect, it does not take more than about an hour to get as far south as say Battipaglia.

            Pignataro lists this place which might be interesting

            I will also not forget a few years ago vlibin writing about the superiority of the food in the Avellino/Benevento area here

            1. re: jen kalb
              jen kalb RE: jen kalb Jul 16, 2010 07:33 AM

              There is also the Agriturismo , La Tenuta Seliano, near Paestum where Arthur Schwartz runs classes. - Carla Capalbo and Slowfood both mention it. ww.agriturismoseliano.it. altho the online views on both food and lodging are mixed. But maybe you visited there before?

              1. re: jen kalb
                bob96 RE: jen kalb Jul 16, 2010 10:04 AM

                Looks like a lovely place, but be wary of the location photos: this is flat, busy farm country, intensively planted. Can't beat the mozzarella di bufala, though. Or the Paestum artichokes. Southern Avellino is not too far north from the Salerno autostrada, and a different landscape and food experience. Capalbo has the goods here.

                1. re: bob96
                  jen kalb RE: bob96 Jul 16, 2010 10:33 AM

                  agreed - lthe Sele plain is exactly as you say - driving down that road from Battipaglia to Paestum is through a zone of intensive, industrial agriculture, not exactly pastoral or scenic.. We saw lots of african farm workers along the road. right around the Paestum scavi the view changes, but there too its flat. I imagine some of these pix came from the Cilento.

                2. re: jen kalb
                  erica RE: jen kalb Jul 16, 2010 02:00 PM

                  I was hoping to set up a week-long trip to the Cilento for next spring....because we would arrive in Naples after the transAtlantic flight(s), I would not want to immediately have to drive too far on the first day....especially since I am terrified of driving in that area!

                  Thank you for all the good ideas..I've not been to Seliano but I think I might be more interested in other possibilities first...in any case, I was hoping to find someplace closer to the airport (NAP) on the first night; I will look into the drive to Paestum-I did not realize that it was so close, time-wise..

                  After that, perhaps find two bases in the Cilento--one near Castellabate and the other further south..

                  This would not be until next year, so I have time!

                  I also had a good meal at Hostaria Toledo..

                  1. re: erica
                    bob96 RE: erica Jul 16, 2010 02:13 PM

                    Before I forget, I can't recommend too highly l'Albergo Il Castello in Castellabate as a home for the northern end of the Cilento: http://www.hotelcastello.co.uk/.
                    Franca di Biasi, the owner, is a charm, and her lovely place, up in the old town, is a warm and inviting spot, with long, endless dinners cooked by local women. Her hospitality is boundless.

                    1. re: erica
                      jen kalb RE: erica Jul 16, 2010 08:23 PM

                      Not about food, but we picked up our car at the airport in the morning on our Amalfi coast visit. the airport is not far from the autostrada south - we got on that and it was a direct run down to Battipaglia, and then a very straightforward drive (the land is flat and the road is dead straight) down to Paestum, The traffic on the autostrada was busier than I remembe farther north and there were lots of small trucks and even three-wheelers, but its basically a simple drive. You could stop somewhere like Vico Equense or Salerno, or cut over to the Avellino-Irpinia area, or even overnight at Pompeii but to me you might as well just bite the bullet and reach your destination, or someplace close to it. My recollection is that there is a whole string of rather unattractive towns on the plain as you travel south to Salerno - it is a fairly heavily populated area

                      You know, I suggested Seliano- but some of the recent tripadvisor reports were pretty discouraging about both food and lodging quality..

                      1. re: jen kalb
                        bob96 RE: jen kalb Jul 16, 2010 08:36 PM

                        Jen's right. The SS18 that cuts straight south from the A3 autostrada at Battipaglia or Eboli is crazy busy with agricultural and commercial activity. Battipaglia itself reminds me of, well, Canarsie. That said, from these towns it doesn't take long to get to Agropoli (a pleasant seaside market town that's the gateway to the Cilento) or Capaccio and the other northern fringes of the hilly Cilento. There's also an express road at Agropoli that cuts the peninsula across inland southeast for the local center of Vallo della Lucania and on to Sapri and Basilicata.

                3. re: gleewms
                  ncara RE: gleewms Mar 25, 2011 02:41 PM

                  Can you give me contact information for La Vigna. We are looking for an Easter Sunday meal for when we leave Naples on our way to Rome.

                  1. re: ncara
                    gleewms RE: ncara Mar 28, 2011 03:52 AM

                    Sure! try: http://www.2spaghi.it/ristoranti/camp.... Another great bet is La Fattoria. A good place to check is http://sites.google.com/site/wikinapo.... It's a quick list put together by Americans living in Napoli. If you use the list, "Mama's" goes for quantity, Marielas is very good but plan to be there several hours. When eating in Napoli, remember your entire group won't be served simultaneously - the person that gets the hot food eats. They work on the old world axiom that good manners spoil good food. Simply smile, nod, offer to share and eat.

                4. m
                  mpierce64 RE: mlukan Jul 15, 2010 07:41 PM

                  Hostaria Toledo is open Sundays for lunch and dinner. I just had a great Sunday lunch there last month. Great pasta genovese, bruschetta and fresh seafood among other things. Lunch for 2 with wine was around 40-45 euros. Highly recommended.

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: mpierce64
                    jen kalb RE: mpierce64 Jul 15, 2010 08:47 PM

                    I agree completely with this recommendation . Hosteria Toledo would be an excellent choice, what a warm, comfortable place. Their vegetable antipasti are particularly good. This is the top "must return" from the places we visited last fall.

                    We didnt have the Genovese (I had their creamy house pasta which was very good, like a roman "alla Chiocara" with mushrooms etc) but the genovese was revelatory elsewhere - basically a light beefy mellow onion sauce - just a perfect flavor coating glazing the pasta..

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