My latest Conundrum

[chris2269]

So, I am dying for a great meal. I travel with work, so when I'm home I really want to stay close to home. I really want a great tasting menu so that leads to the following stream of thought.

El Bizcocho has (yet again) a new chef Ryan Grant. There was an extended piece in the North County Times about him. He seems pretty cutting edge and has a lot of great ideas / techniques. Unfortunately the Ala cart menu seems pretty tame and the 5 and 7 course are just picks off that menu. It seems from the article to really get a true taste of what he can bring you would have to do the "Ex Nihilo Omakase" for $250 pp. That seems way out of line to me, I mean I have been to French Laundry and Joel Rubicon and though still a lot of money I could justify that. In SD with a fairly unknown Chef kinda sketchy. I was thinking of emailing the restaurant and saying I would love to try Ryan's food with a seven course meal of anything he wants to bring that truly reflects his style of off the menu items. If they decline I can go to Saam at the Bazaar by Jose Andres or email Michael Voltaggio at the dinning room at Langham and ask for a special tasting menu and they would both be way under the $250 pp Omakase.

I was kind of hoping the new chef at Blanca would have a tasting menu up by now but no luck.

Thoughts...options

-----
El Bizcocho
17550 Bernardo Oaks Dr, San Diego, CA 92128

[SDGourmand]

Does anyone know how many courses the Addison tasting menu is? On the website it says they offer a 3 and 4 course. I remember it being about 7 courses when I was there last. Which is over a year now. Has anyone been somewhat recently that could help me out? Thanks.

[archercollins]

See my earlier post. It is very, very good. Without question the best food in our area. Went a few months ago, it's 98 for 4 courses. 3 savory and 1 sweet.

[buzznutter]

Had an incredible dinner at El Biz...every bit as good as when Gavin Kaysen was there. The five course tasting menu was plenty, and a good value ($95). The presentations were completely "deconstructed"...which was a contrast to the staid ambiance of the dining room.

Normally I would include more details on the food, but it has been a week, and the food presented on the plate would be hard to describe under the best of circumstances. Easily one of the best meals I have eaten in San Diego, dating back 25 years.

Perhaps someone who dines there should take some pictures, words don't do the flavors and presentation justice.

-----
El Bizcocho
17550 Bernardo Oaks Dr, San Diego, CA 92128

[chris2269]

I might go this weekend. Great report I'm wondering if the original article I read and the online menu don't do it justice?

By your account it seems you can get a feel for the Chef's talent without doing the Omakase.

[buzznutter]

I have done big tasting menus all over the world....Charlie Trotters, Taillevent, French Laundry etc. I am not a big fan...especially with wines attached. A five course tasting menu is plent for me.

[SDGourmand]

Did anyone else find it odd that in the article chef grant said he left NYC because they are going for more casual comfort food and that's not his style? It's not like San Diego is known for fine dining or is accepting of molecular cuisine. Rojas was gone in about three months when he tried to do that. Also they are making it seem that amuse bouches are not usually free, I found that rather strange as well.

[shouzen]

Can you link the article?

[SDGourmand]

http://www.nctimes.com/lifestyles/foo...

[shouzen]

Thanks, that was an interesting read and provided some food for thought.

Agreed that the wording re "free" amuse bouches and petit fours/mignardises was strange - I think that this reflects more on the article's author though... I can't imagine a restaurant implying that those items are their way of doing guests a favour.

I'm a little concerned about what the article references as his crazy dishes - foie gras dipping dots, pop rocks bacon, deconstructed bagels & lox, etc. These things have been done to death in other places by now, so I hope that's not the limit of his creativity.

Finally, am I alone in thinking it weird that he doesn't taste his finished dishes? I'm all for coming up with omakase dishes on the fly, but not tasting the final product really implies a lack of focus. Again, perhaps it's just the way the article was written. Despite how many chefs like to pull something out of the air, the best dishes I've eaten have amost always been products of iterative refinement by the culinary team (the few exceptions were basically riffs on superb dishes familiar to the kitchen).

Anyway, I admit I'm being unfairly hard on a place I haven't even tried. Again, I think the "dumbed-down" tone of the article gave me a weird vibe. I promise to make it a point to visit sometime soon, and write a report on CH...

[chris2269]

I agree with all your points on the article. The not tasting thing though is weird. I talked with Michael Voltaggio and he said it takes him about a month to finally get a dish like his Pastrami Pigeon to plate. I did revisit the web site though and they have added a Lux tasting which was not there a few days ago not sure if this incorporates things not on the menu. I can't bring myself to bring a date to this restaurant and do an Omakase for $600 after tip for two without wine, but maybe if a few of us get together maybe a we can pay for ourselves and pay a corkage for a great bottle of wine...might be nice experiment.

[steveprez]

$250 seems high for a special tasting menu anywhere. Did this include wine pairings?

[SDGourmand]

$250 is normal just for food if they are well known top chef I.e. Keller, savoy, robuchon, masa. But to be a somewhat unknown and for the area that's just crazy. No one will be getting that menu and I'll be surprised if the chef sticks around.

[shouzen]

$250 at TFL or Per Se includes gratuity, though! Masa and Robuchon are probably the most expensive meals in the country (although the tasting at L'Atelier is much more reasonable) so you can't really even count those in the same realm as this restaurant. Even the 4-stars in NY typically run in the range of $150 +/- 20...

In some sick way, I hope someone actually goes for this guy's menu and reports back so we can hear about it, because I wouldn't be ready to blow $250 pp on an unknown :x

[mjill]

Market Restaurant might be in your area and would be a good choice if you are looking for multiple, high quality courses. Kitchen 1540 is also another good choice. Too bad new Chef at Blanca hasn't set up a tasting menu yet.

[SDGourmand]

That's extremely high. That's what guy savoy runs in Vegas. Voltaggio is leaving the Langham so you might want to check and see if he's still there if you end up going that route. You could always call ahead for a tasting at kitchen 1540 or Blanca. I did a tasting at 1540 awhile back and it was great and ran about 125.

[chris2269]

Yeh I'm gonna call 1540 and Blanca. $125 pp is within what I'm thinking. I was kinda bummed at the El Bizococho article as it touted his creativity gave examples of some interesting dishes and then none are on the regular menu or the 5 and 7 course tastings.

[goodhealthgourmet]

thoughts based solely on reputation and recommendations by others (i haven't been):
- Cavaillon
- Addison
- Kitchen 1540

-----
Cavaillon Restaurant
14701 Via Bettona, Suite 200, San Diego, CA 92127

Addison
5200 Grand Del Mar Way, San Diego, CA 92130

KITCHEN 1540
1540 Camino, Del Mar Del Mar, CA

[chris2269]

I have been to kitchen 1540 and enjoyed it. Great ingredients perfectly executed. I have heard from others on the board that the chef will do tastings (which are more adventuresome than the regular menu) Also with the Fair ending this weekend that is a possibility as traffic should ease up. I will have to email them and see what they say. Addison's tasting is $125 pp I just worry it won't stand up to the same price of a tasting at say ...saam ...providence..or other Restaurants in LA. I'm not trying to bash SD I'm just wrestling with will I be satisfied with a high end tasting down here or reluctantly have to drive to LA (I hate driving to LA)

[archercollins]

Dude...Addison is insanely good. Worth every penny. I've eaten at every top restr. in San Diego and it's not even close, Addison is easily the best. I'm serious...not even close.

Also, while pricey, the wine list is uncomparable in SD.

[chris2269]

I believe you. Its just last Sunday we split 6 dishes at Animal with a half bottle of wine for $160 and Saturday are doing Saam at the Bazaar for $120 a person for a 7 course. Throw in $20 for gas and I just (in my mind) do not think the 4 course at Addison will stand up to those at $98 for four courses. I will have to try it though maybe this holiday season.

[SDGourmand]

totally agree and you are right.. Addison is very good but for the money LA has a lot more to offer..

[honkman]

I would love to have Animal in SD (but doubt it would survive). We eat there about every 4-6 weeks. Tasting menu at Saam is more towards 15-20 courses. Will do Bistro LQ, Hatfields, and Lazy Ox this weekend in LA.

[chris2269]

I follow your reviews. Yeh I don't think animal would work in SD either we were there on a Sunday 6pm res and by 6:30 restaurant was full. Stand outs Himachi Tostada and the salad that came with the short ribs. Again I love Cucina Urbana, Cowboy Star because I think they deliver on quality food and wine at a resonable cost., but have a hard time paying more than some restaurants in LA for a 4 cousre in SD. I know I'm bordering on sliding off topic but I think it is a reasonable comparison conversation Chowhound mods.

[Fake Name]

I agree with the conversation in general, but still think you're taking some license by making comparisons to a place you've never been. Sure, it's hypothetically true that a hypothetical meal at a real place may or may not be better than a meal in LA or Berlin, for that matter.

But I find it a stretch.

[chris2269]

I plan to eat at Addison sometime in the future but I would like a comparison by someone who has eaten at a restaurant of simular price and quality in LA. My only thing is I truely (reasonable or not ) do not believe that addisson for $300 dollars can not deliver the same quality for price as Providence, mozza, hatfields ect. I just want a blow by blow comparison by someone who has eaten at a number of above and Addison. I'm not dogging Addison I am sure by all accounts its a fine restaurant I just for the money do not think its the best option in in SD.

[chris2269]

If your serving me four courses for $98. You can not to have a bad course every one must deliver 100%. On a seven course if 1 or 2 misfire the over all meal still wins. Agin at that price point per plate you have to be Rubichon or Rupert IMO. The French laundry does a 10 course for $250 or broken down $25 a plate Addison 4 courses for 98 or $24 a plate. Again quality for dollar (you may say thats an unfare comparison) again I'm just saying I do not believe for that price point they can deliver the quality of a lot of other restaurants within an hour and a half drive.

[SDGourmand]

I've been to both Providence and Addison. They both ran around the same price 400 for two people with tip. Providence I had 10 or 12 courses addision had 4 or 5. Providence was by far a better experience food wise. I like the ambience better at Addison. Service was spot on at both.

[SDGourmand]

I would say that addisions closest comparison would be Ortolan in LA

[chris2269]

Thank you, I learned a lot from those posts. SDGourmand.
(and I know the internet is wierd so I really do mean Thank You not a sarcastic Thank you...stupid internet :) )

[SDGourmand]

No problem happy to help..