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Jun 20, 2010 11:22 AM

Seersucker - two words: pickled okra

Some friends and I visited brand-new Seersucker in our neighborhood on Smith St. last week and I'm happy to welcome a great new addition to our little restaurant row. Our server described the cuisine as traditional Southern but it was far from the over fried, boiled soggy fare that I'm used to from my old Georgia haunts. Instead the food was kind of like the decor, simple and comfortable with a lot of style.

We started with the southern snack tray, an unpretentious collection of homemade chips, pimento cheese, deviled eggs, carrots, celery, ham pate and finally, ultimately, house pickled okra. Pickled okra. The first place in the city I've run into that serves this little southern delicacy and it is nigh-perfect. The ham pate was tasty but a little dense and we ended up chasing it around the plate with our crudite. Though the crispy pig's foot looked more manageable off the hoof, we decided to go with the spoonbread next. It's a sort of warm bread pudding made of hominy grits and served with wild mushrooms in a white butter sauce, that was rich and delicious. I can't pass up a biscuit so we ordered two and they came with tiny jars of honey butter, strawberry jam and pecan bourbon butter. The biscuits were so good they made me wonder just how great a Seersucker brunch could be (supposedly opening for brunch in July). Next up were our entrees: the grilled pork chop, the grilled skirt steak and chicken n' dumplings. The pork chop was cooked perfect on the bone, just a little pink, and was accompanied by sweet potato puree and a frisee salad with some fried okra. Did I mention the okra? The skirt steak looked diminutive next to the pork dish and though skimpy, it was tasty. Finally, the chicken and dumplings was well beyond Dinty Moore, light (really!) and the dumplings held together too. They could sell me a whole bowl full of the crispy chicken skin that comes with it as a garnish. If you're just getting (somewhat small) entrees I would suggest a couple of sides (collards, black-eyed peas) to make it a truly filling meal.

The beer and wine list is all-American including some local Long Island wineries and a rose from Redhook. On tap?! I drank a lot of it. Our server also told us the chef takes advantage of the local produce too. The strawberries, mushrooms and asparagus came directly from the Carroll Gardens farmers market across the street. The dining room is small and spare, all cool grays and light blue, and the music is a grab-bag of late 80's alt-rock, old school country/western and current faves. Altogether Seersucker was a totally pleasant experience. I will be coming back, okra. Why not five stars? You got to really transcend space and time for five stars. Seersucker is just where I want it, today and in my neighborhood.

329 Smith St, Brooklyn, NY 11231

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  1. McCree, are you from the South? I only ask because I've seen glowing reviews of Southern restaurants only to have the food be a far cry from what I ate every Sunday after church. How does this food compare to actual home cooking (okra aside)?

    3 Replies
    1. re: douglas525

      I'm from Decatur, GA. As to whether you'll be satisfied with the authenticity of the food? I don't know. I mean, I don't think this restaurant is necessarily going for home cooking. It looks like they take traditional Southern dishes and do a kind of refined take on them. Their food is certainly worth the trip to Brooklyn, but is it just like pappy's 10 gallon pot of collards with ham hock? Personally, I do think you'll dig a lot on the menu but some items will look more like cuisine then comfort food and that's probably on purpose.

      1. re: Crabby McCree

        I'll trust Decatur judgment when it comes to Southern And yeah, in this town, I expect attempts at haute cuisine with traditional food. I may give this place a shot.

        1. re: Crabby McCree

          If it's anywhere near as good as Scott Peacock's not-so-traditional-but-damn-good place in Decatur, I will be very, very happy.

      2. I'm from NC and can't wait to eat here as a recent transplant!