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Jun 18, 2010 02:27 PM

A week in Cape Cod

Just returned from a wonderful week in Truro, on the Outer Cape. I brought with me a Mitchener novel and a desire to push the bounds of gastronomic consumption to the limit.

Most of the gluttony took place in private, as we nightly ordered gigantic lobsters from Mac's Seafood, which they steamed for us. Large ones (four pounds and up) were $6.99 per pound. Steaming (and really poor customer service) was complementary. Lobsters were amazing. They close, along with everything else it seems, at six, and have branches in Wellfleet, Truro and North Eastham.

We tried a few different places, which all had redeeming things. The clam chowder at the Lobster Pot in Provincetown stood out and still haunts my dreams (although the lobster roll there was depressing). The best fried clams were at Arnold's, in Eastham, which looked like a Golden Corral and discouraged me at first. The fried clams were greaseless and exploded like little pockets of briny sweetness. I also had the best lobster roll of my life at Arnold's, and if you can splurge, the "ginormous" one will restore your faith in humanity (a picture of half of it is attached). The fried scallops looked spectacular, but I was running out of arteries. We also had spectacular ice cream at Nausset Ice Cream in Eastham.

We hit the jackpot the first day and didn't deviate. PB Boulangerie Bistro is a French bakery in Wellfleet that can stand up to the best in Paris. The chocolate almond croissant, white chocolate souffle, whole grain bread and apricot danish were spectacular each on separate mornings, I promise).

PS- We took a day trip into Boston, and went to a North End institution called Daily Catch, recommended by a savvy friend. The squid ink pasta putanesca was spectacular and I vowed never to eat again (until I crossed the street and wolfed down some cannoli at Mike's Pastries).

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  1. Hi barbaglutten,
    I was out on the Cape, 12-19 Jun, I stayed in Truro as welll . I must agree the Arnold's Lobster Roll, was great. I was presently surprised. "Lightly Dressed" and plenty of lobster meat both tail and claws. I was dissappointed in the onion rings, everybody raves about them, but they were cut so thin, we called them shoe-string onion rings, but they were cut so thin so thin the batter kept falling off. Maybe just a bad day. Saw the Lobsters at Mac's on Route 6, Huge, a little girl had just had her picture taken with the biggest lobster I have ever seen. Thank goodness it is retired to the tank and only rolled out for pictures! Clam Chowder at the Lobster Pot is always good, however we always bring back the frozen bags of Lobster Bisque. Went to Tops-Tipsins (get that name confused) for a late breakfast, I got my usual a bowl of Portugese Kale Soup and the Portugese Mussels, nothing fancy but always good & hot and the prices are reasonable. But the highlight for this trip was the Village restaurant in Essex, MA on the North Shore Finally got to try the whole belly ("softshells") clams that the restaurant is known for according to Savour Mag. . Delicious! fat, juicy and melted in your mouth also totally greaseless. My mother who does not really care for clams, admitted that these were good. I'm spoiled now. Mother had the fried haddock, which she said was the freshest she has ever tasted. I must admit though that squid ink pasta putanesca sounds awesome, that'll go on my list for next year as well as the PB Boulangerie Bistro. I miss my little breakfast place which used to be Chistine's Oasis on Route 6. Any Cape Codders out there know what happened. It is now a Dounkin Donut! Yuck! Anyway this was my 7th trip out on the Cape and as usual EXCELLENT EATING!!

    1 Reply
    1. re: kpaumer

      After a two year hiatus following 23 years of vacationing on Indian Neck in Wellfleet, we are headed back in August. I am very upset to hear about the Dunkin' Donuts.