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Yucatán Chowdown Report: 12-Course Tendejon de la Calle Dinner by Mateo Granados

Melanie Wong Jun 17, 2010 05:05 PM

Last night 10 ‘hounds gathered outside Sebastopol at a biodynamic farm for the latest edition of Chef Mateo Granados pop-up restaurant, Tendejon de la Calle. We ordered everything on the menu to share.

I’ve had breakfast many times at Chef Mateo’s farmers market stand, but even with that familiarity, I was dazzled by his performance at dinner. I couldn’t help but think back to the Chowhound.com fundraiser at The French Laundry a few years back where I handed out 3x5 cards and assigned each of the 10 chowhounds present to take detailed notes on one of the 10 items on our tasting menu to describe and critique. I wish that I had done the same yesterday, as Chef Mateo’s detailed preparations and vision for each dish certainly deserved the same degree of attention.

Here’s the Tendejon de la Calle menu for June 16, 2010.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

Below I’ve transcribed the menu descriptions for the dishes in the order they were served. I’ll ask my dining companions to add their comments and impressions. I’m still working on the photos and will post them soon.

***Botanas -
TACONES: Crispy tortilla cone filled with Preston olive oil guacamole and baby Oregon Shrimp or Bolinas halibut-caper-radish, $3 each

***Antojitos –

ENSALADA DE CHIVO: Preston Vineyards tender goat flank steak salad, Tommy Boy fingerling potatoes, Ramon’s green beans, Ridgeview Farms radishes, White Crane greens, $14

EVOLUCION DE UN TACO: Preston Vineyard tender goat head cheese fried in Salmon Creek Ranch duck fat, Manuel’s fava bean puree, Tierra Vegetables guajillo sauce, Middleton Farm rhubarb salpicon, White Crane greens, $13

UN CURADO: Cured Bolinas halibut, shaved La Bonne Terre radishes and baby carrots, Middleton Farm torpedo onions, Gleason Ranch pork chicharrones, $14

ATOLE GRUESO: Tierra Vegetables green corn, olio di gio fried Salmon Creek Ranch duck egg, Manuel’s roasted asparagus, preserved Meyer lemon, $12

ENSALADA DE BETABEL: The Patch roasted duo of beets, Costeaux rustic torn balsamic croutons, White Crane greens, Bodega Goat queso fresco, shallot vinaigrette, $13

***Plato Fuerte -

ALCAPARRADO DE CONEJO: Slow braised Jones rabbit, La Bonne Terre baby carrots, Middleton Farms Walla Walla onions, capers, Manzanilla olives, Manuel’s asparagus salad, Tommy Boy fingerling potatoes, $20

POLLO PIBIL: Anatto seed marinated Gleason Ranch chicken, Middleton Farm garlic scapes and torpedo onions, Peterson Farm tomatoes, arroz mojado, $18

ENCHILADA DE PATO: Salmon Creek Ranch duck enchiladas, Tierra Vegetables home-made mole, Redwood Hill Farm raw milk feta, Ridgeview Farm shaved radishes, The Patch shaved onions, Quivira peppercress. $19

RODABALLO CON COSTRA DE CALABAZA: Pumpkin seed crusted Bolinas halibut, Amstrong Farm roasted duo of squash and squash blossoms, Preston Vineyard black olives, La Bonne Terre roasted pepper sauce, $21

MONTURA Y PIERNA DE CHIVO: Preston Vineyard tender duo of goat braised saddle and roasted leg stuffed with Armstrong Farm squash blossom, Middleton Farm garlic scapes, Tierra Vegetables chilaque sauce and seasonal vegetables, $22

***Dessert -
Dominique’s organic strawberry galette, $7

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Redwood Hill Farm
5480 Thomas Rd, Sebastopol, CA 95472

Tierra Vegetables
651 Airport Blvd, Santa Rosa, CA 95403

Mateo Granados
399 Business Park Dr, Windsor, CA

Oh Tommy Boy's
5880 Carroll Road, Petaluma, CA 94952

Salmon Creek Ranch
1400 Bay Hill Rd, Bodega, CA

Middleton Farm
2651 Westside Rd, Healdsburg, CA

Gleason Ranch
Bodega, CA, Bodega, CA

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  1. Cynsa RE: Melanie Wong Jun 17, 2010 08:16 PM

    The 'hounds shared a spectacular evening under the auspices of Mateo Granados. I think I'd follow him anywhere now. Ordering two of each gave us a tasting feast not to be duplicated — with each plate finessed by detail.
    Melanie's photos will out-class these poor pix, but I can give a quick preview here; starting with the Botanas: tacones with halibut and the Evolucion de un taco — distracted by the charming company, I've missed a dish or two. The tacones with Oregon shrimp was topped with guacamole. We were teased with the promise of tacones with goat chorizo - maybe next time?
    I'm thinking I need to score bottles of both hot sauces - spoonfuls will fill your mouth with fireworks.

    -----
    Mateo Granados
    399 Business Park Dr, Windsor, CA

     
     
     
     
    1 Reply
    1. re: Cynsa
      Cynsa RE: Cynsa Jun 17, 2010 08:29 PM

      Antojitos:
      Un Curado
      Atole Grueso
      Ensalada de Betabel
      The way to my heart is paved with chicharrones, polenta, and roasted beets...directly to the Salmon Creek Ranch duck egg in the ♥Atole Grueso - bringing me to my knees. I can't tell you what happens when that duck yolk breaks in my spoon. It's just insane.
      Each of the starters parlayed the nuance of presentation. Not one dish was repetitive, either in taste or texture. There is Truth in Tasting as one dish follows another. So, if I could have only three dishes, I'd have the Un Curado, Atole Grueso, and Enchilada de Pato; fortunately for me - I had it all.

       
       
       
    2. Cynsa RE: Melanie Wong Jun 17, 2010 08:55 PM

      ALCAPARRADO DE CONEJO
      POLLO PIBIL - charmed by the anatto seed marinade.
      ENCHILADA DE PATO - 3-day mole and duck!
      RODABALLO CON COSTRA DE CALABAZA
      MONTURA Y PIERNA DE CHIVO
      Dominique’s organic strawberry galette (with rhubarb)
      Many thanks to Melanie for organizing such fine feasting for the 'hounds, and to everyone for the excellent wines shared by all - your good company is cherished.

       
       
       
       
       
       
      1. sosdiaz RE: Melanie Wong Jun 18, 2010 08:02 AM

        Oh my! I am sure the pictures don't do it justice! The menu looks amazing.

        1. Melanie Wong RE: Melanie Wong Jun 18, 2010 03:48 PM

          After 4+ hours of editing, I've whittled down the photos to this group of 45 and uploaded them. I'll describe my highlights later, but first let's hear from the other participants with their favorites and impressions.

          http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...
          (I suggest clicking on "slideshow" and then select "show info" in the upper right corner to see the captions)

          1. wearybashful RE: Melanie Wong Jun 18, 2010 09:26 PM

            EVOLUCION DE UN TACO: Preston Vineyard tender goat head cheese fried in Salmon Creek Ranch duck fat, Manuel’s fava bean puree, Tierra Vegetables guajillo sauce, Middleton Farm rhubarb salpicon, White Crane greens
            This was my favorite of the Antojitos-- everything was meltingly tender, except the rhubarb, which was raw and dressed or marinated-- a new experience for me, and very refreshing.

            ALCAPARRADO DE CONEJO: Slow braised Jones rabbit, La Bonne Terre baby carrots, Middleton Farms Walla Walla onions, capers, Manzanilla olives, Manuel’s asparagus salad, Tommy Boy fingerling potatoes
            In spite of the exotic meat and elegant presentation, I was reminded of my grandmother's cooking somehow. It was the long slow braising of the meat that created that grandmother's kitchen flavor.

            ENCHILADA DE PATO: Salmon Creek Ranch duck enchiladas, Tierra Vegetables home-made mole, Redwood Hill Farm raw milk feta, Ridgeview Farm shaved radishes, The Patch shaved onions, Quivira peppercress
            My favorite. They told us the mole had been cooking for three days. Neither I nor my grandmother would ever have attempted this. Very rich and comforting and unforgettable flavor.

            -----
            Redwood Hill Farm
            5480 Thomas Rd, Sebastopol, CA 95472

            Tierra Vegetables
            651 Airport Blvd, Santa Rosa, CA 95403

            Oh Tommy Boy's
            5880 Carroll Road, Petaluma, CA 94952

            Salmon Creek Ranch
            1400 Bay Hill Rd, Bodega, CA

            Middleton Farm
            2651 Westside Rd, Healdsburg, CA

            1 Reply
            1. re: wearybashful
              snarkygirl RE: wearybashful Jun 19, 2010 05:39 PM

              We haven't stopped talking about the duck enchilada. Heaven.

            2. m
              matagal RE: Melanie Wong Jun 24, 2010 10:32 PM

              This was my first chowdown and what a treat! I had been wanting to try one of the Tendejon de la Calle dinners, so this was a perfect opportunity. Thanks Melanie for organizing this memorable evening.

              While the food was wonderful, I was also impressed with everyone's generosity. The wine selection was an added treat.

              I was excited upon arriving to see bottles of chef Mateo's handmade habanero sauce on the table. However, everything was so perfectly spiced that I only got to try the sauce on the tacones.

              A week after the event, I have to say that the duck enchiladas remain the most memorable dish. The mole far surpasses any I have tasted before, even in Mexico. The pollo pibil also stands out.

              I sent a friend a link to Melanie's slide show, and she got hungry just looking at the slides. So maybe I can get a couple of friends together for a repeat tasting!

              1 Reply
              1. re: matagal
                Cynsa RE: matagal Jun 24, 2010 10:55 PM

                me, too - any Wednesday evening!

              2. c
                ciaogina RE: Melanie Wong Jun 27, 2010 10:59 AM

                this sounds like a gem of a meal! I must find a way to experience!

                2 Replies
                1. re: ciaogina
                  u
                  uberslop RE: ciaogina Jul 15, 2010 12:49 PM

                  I went two weeks ago to a Thursday-nighter Tendejon hosted at Everett Ridge winery, just outside of Healdsburg, and it somehow managed to exceed my already high expectations -- I was blown away by every dish they served (with perhaps the exception of the dessert, which was merely fine). Couldn't believe the array of choices -- 6 entrees (including two goat dishes!) and 5 appetizers on offer. My only regrets are a) not taking more friends so that a wider range of dishes could have been tried and b) not having fasted for a day first. Cannot wait to go again.

                  1. re: uberslop
                    Melanie Wong RE: uberslop Jul 28, 2010 12:12 AM

                    At the Sebastopol farmers market on Sunday, I talked to M. G.'s managing partner, Randy, and learned that in addition to Wednesday and Thursday, Tendejon de la Calle is serving on Fridays as well. Hudson Street Wineries, just a few blocks off the plaza in Healdsburg, is providing the indoor event space. Here's Hudson's website, and if you watch the video, you'll see M. G.'s two catering trucks pass by.
                    http://www.hudsonstreetwineries.com/

                    I'm attending a private event at a winery on Saturday afternoon that Granados is catering. I'm really looking forward to what seasonal produce he'll incorporate into the meal six weeks further into summer than this last dinner. I've been to innumerable farm-to-table wine dinners up here and they all start to run together because the format is so predictable. Not so with Tendejon de la Calle, this is a whole different flavor profile and level of execution even though it draws on the same seasonal, locally produced ingredients.

                    -----
                    Hudson Street Wineries
                    428 Hudson St, Healdsburg, CA 95448

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